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San Miguel de Allende -- Today is Wednesday, February 08, 2012 11:29 at our loyal server in the USAI thought I would write a follow-up to my column, “Move Over San Miguel
de Allende Here I Come”, since this is the only thing, writing, that prevents
from committing murderous acts of rage (Just Joking!) As you recall from the
previous column, I wrote how I tried to deposit a royalty check from my publisher
and was told the check would clear on four different dates. We were shown, last
week, on their computer screen that the funds would be available on the 18th
of December.
Well, today is the 18th. We marched down to the bank and, of course, in the
truest sense of TMO (Typical Mexican Operation) the funds were not available.
We went into the bank so I could seize a bank officer and choke him (just kidding!).
No, we talked to this guy who thought it cute to mumble at us. He actually told
us something entirely new.
He said that “the 18th” did not really mean “the 18th” but
it meant sometime after 6 p.m. on the 18th but before mid-night on the 18th and…and…maybe
even the 19th.
CAN YOU BELIEVE THIS?
This my dear readers is what we anal-retentive Americans (and “strung-tighter-than-piano
wire Germans”) have to deal with when we become expatriates living in Mexico.
It would seem, and I could be wrong, that Mexican banks just make up stuff as
they go along. There are no policy manuals, procedural steps, no rules, just
the “fly-by-the-seat-of-your-pants” way of doing things.
“Qué Será, Será: What ever will be, will be. The
future’s not ours to see. Qué Será, Será.”
This is exactly how things are done in central México. I have to tell
you though, those from other regions of the country are as dumbfounded as I am.
They tell me that this region of Mexico is “stuck in time and history.” They
are provincial to the point of having been throw into a time loop and cannot
escape the temporal hole they’ve been in since the middle ages. Time forgot
central Mexico and no one seems to really care to crawl out of this dimensional
morass in which they are quagmired.
What are we going to do?
I do not know. But, we are looking to other areas of Mexico that may not be
like living in a Latino Twilight Zone.
My fellow American expat said this:
“That what Mexico needs is a Business Manager. These people need a Business
Manager in everything that has to do with anything to show them how things work.
This is because in all aspects of life, at least in Guanajuato, no one who does
anything that has to do with something knows just how it is suppose to work.”
She has no idea what truth she spoke!
by Douglas Bower
Article Source: EzineArticles.com | Mexican Coke: The 'Real Thing?'
By TOM RAGAN
Sentinel staff writer
WATSONVILLE
It's popping up just about everywhere in Latino communities across the United States: Mexican-made Coca-Cola in those old glass bottles, somewhat of an anomaly in the age of the plastic liter and twist-off cap.
Slightly worn and a bit gritty from all the coming and going, the 12-ounce bottles, which sell for roughly $1.25 a pop, are being bought up and sucked dry at record clips in cities across the country with large Latino populations.
And Mexicans and Mexican-Americans aren't the only ones swigging down the soda bottled south of the border, claiming it tastes different from its American-made counterpart, that its fizz seems to last longer because it's in a glass bottle.
If running diaries on the Web in the form of blogs are any indication, just about everybody who likes the heft of a good old-fashioned soda bottle is looking for the Mexican-made pop in the thousands of ma and pa convenience stores that cater to Latinos.
"Mexican Coke is selling like crazy bro, and I can't keep up," says Rudy Mendoza of El Gordo Taqueria on Main Street. Last week the 20-something Mendoza, Salinas born and bred, was cursing the underground distributor under his breath as the slightly green tinted bottles, with the words "Hecho en Mexico," started to disappear from his refrigerator.
In somewhat of a conundrum, the Atlanta-based Coca-Cola Co. has condemned the recent imports across the country as a form of "bootlegging."
But at the same time the company has recognized that it would be remiss if it overlooked the Mexican pop craze, which is why it is now buying Coca-Cola in bottles from Mexico and importing them to Texas and Southern California, two of the largest Mexican markets in the country, according to Mart Martin, a spokesman for Coca-Cola's North American division in Atlanta.
"We believe that the appeal of Mexican Coke is as much about nostalgia as it is about anything," says Martin. "It's like getting a piece of home in a bottle. You can't deny the fact that it's in a tall glass bottle, something you just can't find in most parts of the United States."
But it's the "same exact product," and Mexican bottlers are buying the ingredients straight from the company, says Martin.
"It's not like they're stirring it up in some backyard," he adds. "Coke is Coke is Coke."
The company, however, rarely elaborates on Coke's ingredients, and the secret formula is actually in a vault in a bank in Atlanta. Instead, the company line all along has been that there is "no perceptible taste difference" between Mexican Coke and the American-made Classic Coke.
As Martin says, "You have to consider the circumstances: the packaging, whether there's ice over it, the temperature, or whether it's in a can or a bottle. But what often happens is people think it tastes different because it comes in a bottle, and that's what we're trying to get our arms around. The 'why?' It could just be psychological."
Yet there is one kicker, and it's a fairly large one: Mexican Coke may contain the same secret syrup, but its sweetener is entirely different.
It's made from sugar cane, not corn syrup.
'The Real Thing'
Latinos are the fastest-growing population segment in the United States, and Mexico accounts for well over half of the roughly 33 million Latinos who live in the country, according to the 2000 census.
Certainly, this is not the first time the Mexican market has flexed its muscle, with an occasional borrowing from U.S. popular culture.
Look closely at the Mexican man wearing that Texas Longhorns cap or the World Series-winning Chicago White Sox hat. There's a chance it came from a market just off the plaza in Any Town, Mexico.
But then there's the real Mexican deal, like tequila, which has anchored many a margarita happy hour; or tacos, as popular as hamburgers, without which there'd be no Taco Bell.
Mexico's a country that's put the popularity of chips and salsa right up there with ketchup and french fries.
And in yet another nod to the lucrative Latino market, Frito-Lay just came out with a "fiery habañero" flavor of Doritos that all but requires a bottle of water during consumption.
It's no secret that the meteoric rise in the Mexican population in the past few decades in the United States has given rise to all products Mexican, which has made its way into the mainstream of the American psyche — from canned jalapeños to cheaper laundry soaps to the corn tortilla.
But taking a brand name like Coca-Cola and undercutting the American-made Coca-Cola distributors on their own turf hasn't gone over well with the largest soft drink supplier in the world, according to Martin.
Although the bottlers in Mexico are authorized and are making the cola above board, it's the non-Coca-Cola distributors — the guys who are wheeling and dealing it in an underground market — that are causing all the problems.
Lawsuits have been filed, but no dispositions as of yet.
"They're trespassing on the territory rights of many U.S. bottlers," said Coke spokesman Martin. "Bringing it into the country is not illegal. But what it does do from the Coca-Cola standpoint is it violates contractual rights that we have with our bottlers. And it has potential trademark right infringements as well."
The controversy has even bubbled to the surface in several blogs.
Ordinary Joes are mixing their thoughts and opinions with the best of the high-browed corporate types who've made careers out of analyzing products that sell and those that don't.
Grant McCracken, a noted anthropologist with a doctorate from the University of Chicago, wrote: "Some consumers now insist that Mexican Coke is a more robust brand than American Coke, not least because it is charged with meanings that American Coke never had, or long ago gave up. In particular, Mexican Coke is charged with a powerful nostalgia, a remembrance of childhood south of the border."
Karina Alejandre, 22, a recently arrived immigrant from Mexico who now cooks at El Gordo Taqueria in Watsonville, remembers her first sip of Coca-Cola.
And guess what?
It didn't even come from a bottle.
"We'd drink from plastic sandwich bags with straws inside," she said in Spanish, an imaginary straw in her hand. "We couldn't leave the store with the bottles."
Since Coca-Cola was founded in the late 1880s as a syrup mixed with carbonated water, it's gone from the soda fountain to the bottle to the aluminum can to the plastic liter.
And now it's back to the bottle, courtesy of Mexico, a country that's usually a few years behind the times, often fashionably retro because of it.
And in the backrooms of some Mexican tiendas in Watsonville, from El Gordo to D'La Colmena, cases upon cases of the Mexican Coke bottles sit, proof that there's a demand, which is causing a stir but saturating a Latino and non-Latino thirst across the country.
As McCracken notes, "The bigger challenge of the Coca-Cola Co. is to admit that even the magnificent corporation that has created and preserved the 'real thing' authenticity must now admit to the possibility that there are many authenticities. This is the lesson of plenitude. This is the lesson of the long tail."
Miguel Perez and Leticia Martinez, Watsonville residents, don't know anything about corporate lessons learned.
They just know what they like.
"When we run out," says Martinez, "I buy the smaller American-made bottles. They cost more, but they're worth it. I love drinking Coke from the bottle."
from www.santacruzsentinel.com | There are a thousand and one descriptions of San Miguel de Allende written over the past decades. Here's one writer's short take:
San Miguel's reputation as an arts center was established by the founding of the Allende Institute. One of its American founders, Stirling Dickson, came to Mexico as a tourist in the 1930s and fell in love with the city. A painter and engraver, he helped inaugurate the institute in 1950 and was its director until 1987. The lovely building housing the school once was owned by the wealthy Canal familiy. Fountains, arcades and courtyards gardens grace the grounds of the campus, which has extensive classroom space, two are galleries, a theter and a library.
Students from throughout the Americas take advantage of the art and language classes offered, and the institute also functions as a campus abroad for several American and Canadian art schools. The Centro Cultural Bellas Artes, is also known as the Centro Cultural el Nigromante (its official name) and the Centro Cultural Ignacio Ramirez. It is a branch of the wellknown Instituto de Bellas Artes in Mexico City. The impressive building, which dates from the mid-18th century, was once the Convento de la Concepcion and features an immense, tree-shaded courtyard. It offers music, dance and visual arts classes; a bulletin board lists lectures and concerts given both here and elsewhere in the city. Several murals are also exhibited, including one by David Alfaro Siqueirs.
San Miquel is known for the variety and quality of its regionally produced handycrafts. Metalwork -- masks, trays, lanterns, picture frames and decorative objects made of tin, copper, brass, bronze and wrought iron -- and the design of local silversmiths are particularly worth seeking out. Also available are pottery, weaving, sculpture, straw items, hand-loomed cambaya cloth (a material frequently used to make skirts), and folk and traditional art.
The colonial furniture is some of the finest produced in Mexico. Open-air Mercado Ignacio Ramirez, the city market, fills the plaza in front of the Oratorio de San Felipe Neri, and spreads onto the surrounding streets. Livestock and fresh preduce share space with inexpensive everyday items and souvenirs at the cheaper end of the price scale. The Mercado de Artesanias consists of vendor stalls in an alley. Pricier boutiques are scatted throughout the downtown area. Art galleries are concentrated around the main plaza, and exhibit openings are big social events. Two that showcase both regional and national talents are Galeria San Miguel and Galeria Atena. | From the Vip Club Newsletter for San Miguel de Allende with information on discounts available for club members who have purchased the VIP Club Discount Card
- Accounting Services: Juan Manuel Orta,
044-415-101-1805, free consultation for first-timers
- Aqua Bell, purified water, call 120-3500, 19 liter jugs,
home delivered, no deposit charge, 12-pesos, 20% discount
- Art Print, San Francisco 11, upstairs, (quality full-color
digital printing, 10% minimum $400 pesos)
- BBQ Bob's, Salida de Celaya #6 organic produce, (10%, 100
peso minimum)
- Beatriz's Vacation Rental Apartments - 10% discount off rentals apartments.
- "Best of San Miguel" published by Joseph Harmes,
(10%), order by e-mail:
escritorsma@cybermatsa.com.mx
- Black & White Shop - "Tonina" - now located Loreto
28A, 20% off
- Camar Printing - 10% off all printing
services, minimum $500 pesos.
- Casa del Inquisidor, Aldama No. 1. Members may take 10% off marked goods. Casa del Inquisidor furniture & décor store, furniture, upholstery, rugs and hardware, in addition to Casa del Inquisidor's professional interior design.
- Casa Linda, Luxury Hotel - 15% off for cash, 5% when using credit
card.
- Casa Montana Hotel in Pozos - 20%.
- Chelo's Farmacia - 20% drugs, 15% off retail products except those
already marked down, $50 pesos minimum.
- Classes un LTD - VIP Club members may take 10% off continuous education
classes. For additional info visit their website, www.classesunlimited.com,
or call: 152-2483.
- Clinica Izuinapan Pet Care and Spa. Veterinario Dr. Rodrigo Garibay offers 10% off pet needs including spaying, neutering, grooming and SPA services. La Clinica secializes in alternative and preventive medical treatment & Professional Grooming for pets
Relampago #22 Col. La Lejona 2da. Seccion,
Cell: 044 415 151 9325.
- Darla's Jewelry, corner of Correo and Recreo, (15%)
- Dryclean USA, Salida A Celaya No.14, 185-8200,
Dry clean and laundry services, pick up and
delivery, 15% discount, 100 peso minimum.
- DuPont Paints, 152-39-87, (10%) off
Two locations Salida de Celaya #26 and, Libramiento a Dolores Hidalgo #46, 044-415-100-6552
- Elite Nails, waxing etc. Zacateros #29 (15%) 100 peso minimum
- ERA Gift Shop, Zacateros #39, (10%)
- Georgia Dering Massage Therapy, 044-415-103-3364 (10%)
- Goldie Designs, Canal #9, (10%)
- Helena Moreno Fine Arts Gallery, Jesus #18, (10% off marked
items)
- Hotel Casa Cafe on Hidalgo, (10%) coffee by the kilo, whole
bean or ground
- Intercam Casa de Cambio - (premium rate slightly above posted rate
when cashing in dollars).
- Joyous Heart represents, Shaklee, Mexico, Zamora Rios
#9, Colonia Allende, 152 1213. Deep discounts to VIP Club Members.
- La Morada Hotel - 20% off rooms and suites (some black out dates apply).
- Lavamagico laundry service (home delivery), Pila Seca
#5, 152-0899. (10)%
- Noel Propane Gas, home delivery, (6%) off retail price
154-8383 Special Instructions, must call in for cylinders or tanks
beforehand give card # and date of expiration. If encountering truck
on the street must call in when in house. laundry service (home delivery), Pila
Seca #5, 152-0899. (10)%
- The Leather Shop - Umarán #1, (10%)
- Moyshen Art Gallery Hidalgo #4, (10% off marked art)
- McDonalds Mail Box Service to US (10% discount for year
payment)
- Patricia's facial & body treatments, Ladrillera #1,
154-8104. (10%)
- Ren Ellis Leather Goods, Recreo 8A (10%)
- San Miguel Health and Fitness Center - 20% off first month's membership.
- Satellite Mexico TV - Welcome, SATELLITE MEXICO, VIP Club members
can take 10% off services, including installation. Contact Chuck for info: satellitemexico@yahoo.com
- 3 Señores - Camping and horseback riding. For reservations
call:
044-415-101-4976. 25% discount of regular rates.
- San Miguel Designs; (www.sanmigueldesigns.com).
(15%).
- Satellite Mexico TV (10%) off services, including installation
- Seventh Heaven Boutique - Sollano #13, Various discounts to members.
- Stilo Lamps and Furniture, Casada Aurora, (10% off marked
goods)
- Vista Real Hotel and Vista Real Hotel's Restaurant - (20%) Blackout
periods apply
Notice: Certain Restaurants and Businesses
may have restrictions that do not appear on this website. Please contact The
Restaurant Club directly for a complete list of participating businesses and
restrictions. Web site Questions/Corrections, contact web@vipsanmiguel.com and Lou Christine
VIP Questions, contact vipsma@cybermatsa.com.mx for the VIP
CLUB |
Las Posadas
Zacatlán de las Manzanas, Mexico
The tourist office, under the archways in the main plaza, was open when I
arrived in the small colonial town of Zacatlán de las Manzanas, two hours
east of Mexico City. The plaza, anchored by the 16th century ex Convento de San
Franciso, was aglow in silvery fog that foreshadowed the magical time I was to
spend. I had been told that Zacatlán celebrated traditional Mexican Christmas Posadas,
the symbolic journey of the Holy Family from Nazareth to Bethlehem seeking shelter,
and I wanted to join in this nine-day festival.
The plaza, anchored by the 16th century ex Convento
de San Franciso, was aglow in silvery fog that foreshadowed the magical time
I was to spend.
The Posada (literally inn) tradition began in
Mexico in 1587 when an Augustine order requested permission of Pope Sixto V to
authorize a Novena, a nine-day Christmas celebration.
The Augustinians, who used theater, drama and song in the process of conversion,
not only wished to tell the story leading to Christ's birth, but wanted to supercede
the Aztecs' twenty-day annual December festival dedicated to Huitzilopochtli,
their war god.
Bethlehem Stars
Today Posadas are often reduced to a single evening but historically it is
a Novena celebrated daily from December 16th to the 24th, which of course is
then followed by Christmas on the 25th. I came to Zacatlán to experience
the Posadas as a Novena, the religious ritual in a provincial setting.
Mary Carmen Olvera Trejo, Director of Tourism, was seated behind her desk,
wearing a soft, bluish-white, downy sweater, working at her laptop computer,
when I entered. She instantly looked up, greeted me, invited me to sit down,
and asked, "How can we help you?" I said, "Where should I go
for Posadas?" She penciled an outline with directions where I could visit
Posadas during the week, in the schools, the churches and also suggested Hospital
San José. And in a gesture of good will, knowing that I was alone, she
invited me to the Olvera Family Reunion-Posada on Christmas Eve. Zacatlán
is a compact colonial town with a huge clock in the central plaza. Red tiled
adobe buildings, windows framed with iron grills, and cobblestone streets give
the visitor a feeling of history and tradition. I could walk to the Posadas that
Mary Carmen suggested.
Hospital San José
Late that first afternoon I joined the Posadas at Hospital San José where
children, warmly dressed in well-worn jackets and jeans, had gathered in the
chapel. They looked as if they could be the children of the shepherds that were
present at the first Christmas.
Passing out treats. San Jose Hospital
In the hospital chapel, I sat in the front pew next to a little girl whose
rosy cheeks glowed through her dark skin. She sat quietly while her mottled brown-blue
eyes carefully examined my camera.
The church was a cream colored white with purple drapes. The director, a petit
nurse-nun dressed in white and wearing wire glasses, introduced me as a guest.
She used the opportunity to remind the children to be on their best behavior
so as to leave the visitor with a good opinion.
The service began. Children sang the rosary. The chapel was in the center
of the hospital with a corridor encircling the chapel. We stood. Four children
in the back of the church lifted a plank with an angel, Mary and Joseph on their
shoulders. It was decorated with a green pine tree branch and Christmas ornaments.
The procession came up the center aisle, turned right and then began a journey
around the outer corridor of the inner chapel. The choir and students followed
Joseph and Mary and made periodic stops, as did the Biblical Holy Family when
looking for a place to rest in Bethlehem. The children continued singing the
rosary: Hail Mary's and the Our Father.
At each stop, the Holy Family asked for shelter and
was denied. Finally, after a full circuit, in the hospital, the Holy Family found
rest, and the nun dressed in white passed out gifts: oranges, sugar cane, jicama,
peanuts and other treats.
At each stop, the Holy Family asked for shelter and was denied. Finally, after
a full circuit, in the hospital, the Holy Family found rest, and the nun dressed
in white passed out gifts: oranges, sugar cane, jicama, peanuts and other treats.
Young children marveled at their good fortune. I was surprised to see such pleasure
from what I would have deemed modest.
Church of St. Francis
The next day at the Church of St. Francis, the largest in town, I encountered
a different expression of the Posada. After we entered the church, the doors
were closed. The rosary was not sung but a number of journeys were made around
the inside of the church, with young men carrying statues of the Holy Family.
We stopped at the various niches as if seeking an inn.
Mary in blue
When the procession rested, a verse of the traditional Posada Song was sung.
The Posada Song consists of two alternating choruses. First, the Holy Family
requests shelter, then there is a response, "This is no inn. Continue on
your way. I will not open. You could be thieves." Back and forth, there
is a request and a denial. Then it is revealed, the chorus sings, "The queen
of heaven is asking for shelter. It is Joseph and Mary, his beloved spouse, who
stand at your doors and seek lodging in your house." The climax follows, "Let
the doors be thrown open, let the drapes be drawn, for the Queen of Heaven has
come to rest."
School: Juana de Arca, Atexna
But it was on the road to El Refugio, a holistic cabin and campground enclave,
where I found the most memorable procession. Here was simplicity, faith and tradition
among grammar school children reenacting the Holy Family's journey and their
quest for shelter.
Here was simplicity, faith and tradition among grammar
school children reenacting the Holy Family's journey and their quest for shelter.
As I turned off the highway onto the rutted dirt road at Atexna, children
had just left a solitary church and had just started their trek up the road to
their primary school. I quickly parked and asked the teacher, Guillermina Juarez
Martinez, if I might join the pilgrims. She was happy to welcome me.
Joseph dressed in green and gold, Mary wore blue, and Jesus' godmother looked
angelic in white. Angels, shepherds, wise men, parents and teachers followed
the Holy Family. Solemnly they hiked up the hill reenacting the journey from
Nazareth to Bethlehem. I ran ahead and took pictures of the pilgrimage treading
on the damp earth road framed with maguey cactus.
The procession arrived at the school. A number of students entered, but the
Holy Family, angels and shepherds, stayed outside. I was inside with my camera.
The Posada Song was sung with the alternating choruses. The door was opened,
the Holy Family entered, and students gathered in front of the manger. Joseph
in green and gold stood on the right, and Mary with her light blue cape stood
on the left, while the godmother, seated in the center, rocked Baby Jesus.
Mixing of traditions, Santa and angel
Guillermina Juarez Martinez kneeled and kissed the Baby Jesus. Everyone, pupils
and teachers followed her example. Then small gifts were distributed and hot
punch was served.
I enjoyed the pageantry, the processions, the rituals, and the songs. But
what I had not realized was that I was yet to experience the love and the essence
of the Christmas message.
Olvera Family Reunion-Posada
Mary Carmen had invited me to the Olvera Family Reunion-Posada. The party
was at 7 p. m. Christmas Eve. I said, "Seven or after seven?" I didn't
want to be the first to arrive, especially at a family gathering of over 80 relatives.
Mary Carmen said, "A partir de las siete." (Any time after 7.)
I meant to arrive about 7:30 but I got lost. In the dark I couldn't find the
turnoff to the family homestead, and I knew I was within yards. But in the dark,
along the road, the Grand Marquis' headlights made every shrub bristle as if
it were the sign of an entryway. Luckily, there was a nearby restaurant getting
ready for a Christmas Eve Party and the owner was cordial and told me precisely
where to turn.
I arrived at 8 just in time to join the outdoor chorus singing the Posada
Song asking for shelter. When the doors opened I entered into a grand multi-generational
family reunion and celebration.
Here I found more than the Christmas Posada, the Holy Family pilgrim tradition
and a religious service.
Señor Olvera, Mary Carmen's father, 83, and family patriarch, dressed
in a suit and tie and wearing a short overcoat and a brown beret, spoke to his
family. He embraced his wife Julita, dressed in a red coat, and gave thanksgivings
for their blessings, and family prayers for those present and absent. Testimonials
were spoken for the family's happiness. One by one adult children hugged their
parents. There was a gift exchange, a grand feast (with 8 daughters, food was
abundant), toasts (even Viva California!), and dancing to salsa, marimba, rock
'n roll, waltz, fox trot and swing.
We danced together, in a group, in a line, in a circle, in the center of the
circle (nudged forward for an impromptu jig, or whirl). There was a call for "Los
Calvos", the bald guys, only two of us, the other being Eduardo, a son-in-law
from Aguacaliente, where cock fighting is the annual attraction at the San Marcos
Fair, so Eduardo and I pantomimed our interpretation of a two strutting cocks
to cheers and applause.
Then singing, Mary Carmen led, followed by nearly every guest, some reluctant,
needing encouragement, some with good voices like Mary Carmen, some frogs like
myself who sang El Rey, but I had to pull Mary Carmen up with me as I was uncertain
of all the lyrics, so we ended up a duet.
Husbands brought tears, pure streams of joy to their wives, as they sang love
ballads, with words like, "My life would be nothing without you, you are
my total love, my source, my reason for being," while directing a fixed
gaze, eye to eye with the wife.
There were other songs and recitations, humorous, or just favorites, more
toasts, more dancing, a total spectacle of a loving, endearing, supporting, joyful
family, whose patriarch's favorite response to, "Como está?" (How
are you?) is, "Yo soy agradecido de haber nacido." (I'm grateful for
having been born.)
La Piñata and a Funeral
I drove home alert, not tired at 3 a.m. Mary Carmen told me to join the family
at noon for the children's Christmas Piñata Fiesta. Afterwards, she said,
we would join her nephew, his wife and daughter at La Trucha (The Trout) Restaurant
for Christmas dinner.
When I arrived, plans had changed. We would be going to a funeral at 2 p.m.
An elderly aunt died Christmas Eve and in Mexico burial is the next day. It seemed
ironic. During Day of the Dead in San Miguel de Allende, I witnessed a wedding,
and here in Zacatlán, on Christmas Day, I would be present at a funeral.
At noon, the children took turns, blindfolded (a symbol that the only guide
is faith), and smacked the piñata. It was a clay pot covered with a 7-pointed
star decorated in brilliant red, blue, orange, green, gold, silver, purple and
white with paper streamers, which symbolized the Seven Deadly Sins. When it broke,
treats gushed out. Children gathered up the traditional gifts: sweet potatoes,
jicama, sugar cane, peanuts, oranges, a few small toys, balls and Spiderman figures,
caramels and hard candy.
After the piñata, the festivities quieted. We still had a funeral and
Christmas dinner to attend.
The sun was out. I was now part of Mary Carmen's family and we walked up the
hill to the original homestead, which was being used for storage. I no longer
thought of the fog. Here on a hill outside Zacatlán the weather was warm
and the sky crystal blue. Children were taking turns on a swing. The homestead
was built L shaped and I photographed the flowers. I took nine photos, all different.
We traveled back to Zacatlán for the 2 p.m. funeral. I dropped Mary
Carmen and her nephew, wife and child in front of the church, and then continued,
looking for a parking place.
The funeral was short. But the church overflowed. In a small town, everyone
is related. The casket, carried by 6 men, was placed in a funeral limousine and
an entourage followed the slow-moving hearse to the cemetery. It was only a few
blocks distant. The aunt was laid to rest on Christmas Day.
Christmas Dinner
We backtracked past the Olvera homestead, drove to Jicolapa, a small village
outside Zacatlán, and then into the quiet green pine forest and onto a
dirt road that lead to mountain streams, a trout farm and a restaurant. We had
been delayed. We were the last guests to arrive at La Trucha.
I felt as if I had returned home to northern Colorado and had just driven
up the Poudre Valley River Canyon.
We selected our trout direct from the pond. Shortly, dinner, wrapped and baked
in tinfoil with herbs, was served. We toasted, clinking bottles of cold beer.
We were in a simple wood-framed building in the pine forest next to a stream
with turkeys wandering about.
Our dining room was more like a giant tree house than a restaurant. It was
modest, rustic, and appropriate for Christmas. Christ had been born in a manger.
-- Dick Davis
Dick
Davis travels frequently and contributes articles to www.ourmexico.com. This
story is from their RSS feed of publically accessible articles. Dick has taught
in both Mexico and Spain and is happy to share his experiences. A resolute companion
in his Mexican travels is his Grand Marquis. He can be contacted at: dickdavis40@hotmail.com | |