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San Miguel de Allende -- Today is Sunday, August 01, 2010 02:06 at our loyal server in the USAIGLESIA DE LA CONCEPCION. It was begun in the mid-17th century and financed partially through the support of the Canal familiy, who figured prominently in the town's ealy history. The domed roof, one of the largest in Mexico, wsa not completed until 1891. Supported by elegant Corinthian columns, it is believed to be the work of La Parroquia architect Zeferino Gutierrez.
IGLESIA DE SAN FRANCISCO. Build in the late 18th century, it is thought to be the work of Eduardo Tresguerras, who contributed to the design of many churches in central Mexico. Construction was financed through donations from wealthy families and the proceeds from bullfights. The intricate stone carvings gracing the exterior are a fine example of the ornate Churriguerreque style. The high-ceilinged interior contains statues, paintings and more carved stone. La Parroquia. The many-steepled church towers over the plaza and dominates the city. It was originally built in the late 17th century in a plain Fanciscan style, but 2 centuries later an Indian architect, Zeferino Gutierres, gave the church an imposing facelift. With no formal training, he added the tower and Gothic-style facade of pink-hued sandstone, supposedly using postcard pictures of French Gothic cathedrals as his inspiration. Inside, neoclassic stone altars have replaced earlier gilded wood ones. A statue of St. Michael the Archangel, namesake of both town and church (its official name is Parroquia de San Miguel Arcangel), adorns the main altar. Chapels are located to the side and behind the main altar. The original bell, also referered to as St. Michael and cast in 1732, begins ringing early in the morning to summon parishioners; La Parroquia is still an active house of worship.
MUSEO CASA DE ALLENDE. The birthplace of Ignacio Allende now houses a historical museum. A plaque hanging ove the front door reads, "Here was born the one who was famous". Allende was one of the few early leaders of the War of Independence with actual military training. Together, he and Father Miguel Hidalgo organized a ragtag army and plotted strategies for overthrowing Spanish rule. Museum exhibits chronicle the region's history abd Allende's role in the struggle for freedom.
ORATORIO DE SAN FELIPE NERI. It was build by San Miguel's Indian population in the early 18th century. The original structure's facade of pink stone is still visible at the church's eastern end, along with a figure of Nuestra Senora de Soledad (Our Lady of Solitude). The southern exterior is newer and incorporates a baroque style. The church is notable fir its many domes in different shapes. The adjoining chapel, Santa Casa de Loreto, is behind the church. A grating blocks the chapel entrance, although its gilded altars can still be seen.
Text from "AAA Mexico Travelbook 1998" | Mexican Coke: The 'Real Thing?'
By TOM RAGAN
Sentinel staff writer
WATSONVILLE
It's popping up just about everywhere in Latino communities across the United States: Mexican-made Coca-Cola in those old glass bottles, somewhat of an anomaly in the age of the plastic liter and twist-off cap.
Slightly worn and a bit gritty from all the coming and going, the 12-ounce bottles, which sell for roughly $1.25 a pop, are being bought up and sucked dry at record clips in cities across the country with large Latino populations.
And Mexicans and Mexican-Americans aren't the only ones swigging down the soda bottled south of the border, claiming it tastes different from its American-made counterpart, that its fizz seems to last longer because it's in a glass bottle.
If running diaries on the Web in the form of blogs are any indication, just about everybody who likes the heft of a good old-fashioned soda bottle is looking for the Mexican-made pop in the thousands of ma and pa convenience stores that cater to Latinos.
"Mexican Coke is selling like crazy bro, and I can't keep up," says Rudy Mendoza of El Gordo Taqueria on Main Street. Last week the 20-something Mendoza, Salinas born and bred, was cursing the underground distributor under his breath as the slightly green tinted bottles, with the words "Hecho en Mexico," started to disappear from his refrigerator.
In somewhat of a conundrum, the Atlanta-based Coca-Cola Co. has condemned the recent imports across the country as a form of "bootlegging."
But at the same time the company has recognized that it would be remiss if it overlooked the Mexican pop craze, which is why it is now buying Coca-Cola in bottles from Mexico and importing them to Texas and Southern California, two of the largest Mexican markets in the country, according to Mart Martin, a spokesman for Coca-Cola's North American division in Atlanta.
"We believe that the appeal of Mexican Coke is as much about nostalgia as it is about anything," says Martin. "It's like getting a piece of home in a bottle. You can't deny the fact that it's in a tall glass bottle, something you just can't find in most parts of the United States."
But it's the "same exact product," and Mexican bottlers are buying the ingredients straight from the company, says Martin.
"It's not like they're stirring it up in some backyard," he adds. "Coke is Coke is Coke."
The company, however, rarely elaborates on Coke's ingredients, and the secret formula is actually in a vault in a bank in Atlanta. Instead, the company line all along has been that there is "no perceptible taste difference" between Mexican Coke and the American-made Classic Coke.
As Martin says, "You have to consider the circumstances: the packaging, whether there's ice over it, the temperature, or whether it's in a can or a bottle. But what often happens is people think it tastes different because it comes in a bottle, and that's what we're trying to get our arms around. The 'why?' It could just be psychological."
Yet there is one kicker, and it's a fairly large one: Mexican Coke may contain the same secret syrup, but its sweetener is entirely different.
It's made from sugar cane, not corn syrup.
'The Real Thing'
Latinos are the fastest-growing population segment in the United States, and Mexico accounts for well over half of the roughly 33 million Latinos who live in the country, according to the 2000 census.
Certainly, this is not the first time the Mexican market has flexed its muscle, with an occasional borrowing from U.S. popular culture.
Look closely at the Mexican man wearing that Texas Longhorns cap or the World Series-winning Chicago White Sox hat. There's a chance it came from a market just off the plaza in Any Town, Mexico.
But then there's the real Mexican deal, like tequila, which has anchored many a margarita happy hour; or tacos, as popular as hamburgers, without which there'd be no Taco Bell.
Mexico's a country that's put the popularity of chips and salsa right up there with ketchup and french fries.
And in yet another nod to the lucrative Latino market, Frito-Lay just came out with a "fiery habañero" flavor of Doritos that all but requires a bottle of water during consumption.
It's no secret that the meteoric rise in the Mexican population in the past few decades in the United States has given rise to all products Mexican, which has made its way into the mainstream of the American psyche — from canned jalapeños to cheaper laundry soaps to the corn tortilla.
But taking a brand name like Coca-Cola and undercutting the American-made Coca-Cola distributors on their own turf hasn't gone over well with the largest soft drink supplier in the world, according to Martin.
Although the bottlers in Mexico are authorized and are making the cola above board, it's the non-Coca-Cola distributors — the guys who are wheeling and dealing it in an underground market — that are causing all the problems.
Lawsuits have been filed, but no dispositions as of yet.
"They're trespassing on the territory rights of many U.S. bottlers," said Coke spokesman Martin. "Bringing it into the country is not illegal. But what it does do from the Coca-Cola standpoint is it violates contractual rights that we have with our bottlers. And it has potential trademark right infringements as well."
The controversy has even bubbled to the surface in several blogs.
Ordinary Joes are mixing their thoughts and opinions with the best of the high-browed corporate types who've made careers out of analyzing products that sell and those that don't.
Grant McCracken, a noted anthropologist with a doctorate from the University of Chicago, wrote: "Some consumers now insist that Mexican Coke is a more robust brand than American Coke, not least because it is charged with meanings that American Coke never had, or long ago gave up. In particular, Mexican Coke is charged with a powerful nostalgia, a remembrance of childhood south of the border."
Karina Alejandre, 22, a recently arrived immigrant from Mexico who now cooks at El Gordo Taqueria in Watsonville, remembers her first sip of Coca-Cola.
And guess what?
It didn't even come from a bottle.
"We'd drink from plastic sandwich bags with straws inside," she said in Spanish, an imaginary straw in her hand. "We couldn't leave the store with the bottles."
Since Coca-Cola was founded in the late 1880s as a syrup mixed with carbonated water, it's gone from the soda fountain to the bottle to the aluminum can to the plastic liter.
And now it's back to the bottle, courtesy of Mexico, a country that's usually a few years behind the times, often fashionably retro because of it.
And in the backrooms of some Mexican tiendas in Watsonville, from El Gordo to D'La Colmena, cases upon cases of the Mexican Coke bottles sit, proof that there's a demand, which is causing a stir but saturating a Latino and non-Latino thirst across the country.
As McCracken notes, "The bigger challenge of the Coca-Cola Co. is to admit that even the magnificent corporation that has created and preserved the 'real thing' authenticity must now admit to the possibility that there are many authenticities. This is the lesson of plenitude. This is the lesson of the long tail."
Miguel Perez and Leticia Martinez, Watsonville residents, don't know anything about corporate lessons learned.
They just know what they like.
"When we run out," says Martinez, "I buy the smaller American-made bottles. They cost more, but they're worth it. I love drinking Coke from the bottle."
from www.santacruzsentinel.com | I’ve written quite a bit about The Ugly American Syndrome. In my columns,
print and online magazines, and in every book I’ve written, I’ve
mentioned this topic. I get a lot of mail from readers, either praising and agreeing
with me or chiding and condemning me.
As of today, I think I will begin cutting Americans some slack, especially
American expats in Mexico, regarding The Ugly American Syndrome. My visit to
the bank today convinced me that maybe I’ve been too harsh and need to
lighten up a bit. I think my readers (the chiders and condemners) in San Miguel
de Allende might breathe a collective sigh of relief over this announcement.
What happened is something that should not have surprised or shocked me. I
guess I simply have reached the end of my expat rope—at least today. When
I get my quarterly royalty checks from my book publishers, I take them to my
Mexican bank and deposit them. Because they are drawn on a foreign account in
the States, there is understandably a hold on these checks.
I get that and it doesn’t bother me one bit.
But here is what I’ve been told ever since I began depositing royalty
checks into this account:
“There will be a two-week hold on this check.”
At the end of two weeks, the wife and I go off to the ATM to check the balance
and the funds are not there. We go back to the bank. The bank officer tells us:
“Oh, there is always a three-week hold on foreign checks.”
We wait another week, go to the ATM, and the funds aren’t there. So,
we go again to the bank.
“Oh, there is a 22-day hold on all foreign checks.”
The next day, we go to the ATM and the funds are not there. We go into the
bank:
“There must be some mistake. There is always a 25-day hold on all foreign
checks.”
We wait three more days and go to the ATM to check things out. There are no
funds. We drag ourselves into the bank with the wife trying to talk me out of
murdering someone.
“Oh my, my! There is always a 30-day hold on all foreign checks.”
In Mexico, as I have written before, nothing, and I mean absolutely nothing,
is as it seems. Nothing will work with any degree of logic or reason known to
the rest of the world. Here two weeks can mean pretty much any amount of time.
In Guanajuato, Mexico, two weeks means many things. It can mean three weeks,
twenty-two days, twenty-five days, or thirty days. And let me tell you, each
bank employee will tell you something different each time you make a deposit.
They will look you straight in the eye and tell you whatever comes to their minds,
whether it is the truth or not.
What I do not get is just why no bank employee knows how anything works! This
brings me to a conversation with an American expat who has lived in Mexico much
longer than I have. She said once that what Mexico needs is a Business Manager.
These people need a Business Manager in everything that has to do with anything
to show them how things work. This is because in all aspects of life, at least
in Guanajuato, no one who does anything that has to do with something knows just
how it is suppose to work.
Trying to do banking in Guanajuato is not the only thing that doesn’t
work. I would love to tell you that this is so but I would be lying.
Once we tried going to the movies. The theater manager was at a party and
was having too good of a time to show up with the keys to the box office to sell
tickets. She sent word that someone was welcome to come and get the keys and
sell tickets, otherwise we would all have to wait.
Can you begin to imagine what would have happened in America when this movie
theater manager finally showed up? She or he would have been lynched by the crowd.
Here is the really bad thing. This sort of “Qué Será,
Será, whatever will be, will be…” service is vastly tolerated
all over this country. The Mexican nationals, at least from my observation, seem
to tolerate a level of service from providers that Americans and Europeans would
not tolerate for a second!
Only those who have spent time internationally seem to be perturbed by those
of their fellow countrymen who settle for or offer this, “The future’s
not ours to see, Qué Será, Será…” service.
Well, the next time I see some American tourist or expat acting out The Ugly
American Syndrome, I am going to march up to them, pat them on the back, and
tell them, “I feel your pain, Bubba!”
by Douglas Bower
Article Source: EzineArticles.com | If you read guidebooks or travel articles about México, you will read
that Mexicans are wonderfully accommodating, friendly, warm, and generous to
strangers. You will be given the impression these people are the “Salt
of the Earth” and maybe even virtually Saints. You will be told things
like, “Mexicans are helpful to a fault” and “they will be so
patient with you trying to learn Spanish.” While this might be true, I
have, of late, begun to doubt the multitude of clichés that pour forth
from all the guidebook and article sources about Mexico.
About 18 months into our expatriation experiment, my wife and I began to wonder
what was going on in the heartland of Mexico. The clichés we had read
in our pre-expat research were, frankly, beginning to fall apart. The longer
we lived here, the more we were beginning to see things that the guidebooks gushed
about Mexican’s congeniality weren’t necessarily true. Something
wasn’t adding up.
Guanajuato is about as much in the middle of the country as it gets. It is
truly the heartland of Mexico. Here life is uber-provincial. The dictionary defines
provincial as, “a person of local or restricted interests or outlook; a
person lacking urban polish or refinement.” I began hearing this uber-provincial
stuff more and more as the years went by. I heard this from not only American,
German, and Canadian expatriates but also from Mexicans who grew up in other
parts of Mexico and who, for one reason or another, ended up in Guanajuato.
Certain things begin to happen to us that caused us to begin asking questions.
After all, we were still very fresh and green expats who didn’t know much.
But we began to ask about this or that once things started happening.
I guess it was the first time I was knocked into the street by a Mexican and
subsequently hit by a bus that caused me to wonder what was going on. The second
time was really what got me to wondering. I was pushed off the sidewalk not once
but twice into the path of an oncoming bus and was struck. Not once did anyone
stop to see if I was all right. The pushers never bothered to utter one word
to me. My wife has also been pushed and shoved off sidewalks. I have a 70-year-old
American gringa pal who was pushed into the path of a taxi and was nailed.
One just has to ask what is happening in Guanajuato, Mexico.
I wish I could tell you.
What I began to see long ago was that the Guanajuatenses on the street are
practically running to get somewhere but never arrive on time for anything. Although
all of Latin American (and Italy) is famous for how they regard time differently
than the rest of the world, this has slowly been changing in the more metropolitan
areas of Mexico. More and more, Mexicans are beginning to forsake their traditional
understanding of what it means to be on time for anything. Not so in Guanajuato.
It is just as traditional here as it has been for centuries. Some say the heartland
of Mexico is “stuck in the past.”
But, what you have are Guanajuatenses running at the speed of light and, I
can assure you, to get nowhere fast. They are absolutely not trying to get somewhere
on time. It is a cultural affectation here in Guanajuato. They will never, ever
arrive on time for anything. This is a total mystery in and of itself. Why are
they running? They never arrive on time for anything so what’s the rush?
So, you may logically ask, why are they running down the sidewalk knocking
gringos into the gutter? I wish I could tell you, but I can’t.
I have asked Mexicans because I have the facility in the language to do so.
Most of those I have questioned are not from Guanajuato originally. They are
here for a job, marriage, or whatever, and have been transplanted from other
regions of Mexico.
To my amazement, these Guanajuato transplants have told me that they view
the people of Guanajuato as some of the rudest, most ill educated, and most ill
reared Mexicans in the country. I have gotten emails from Mexicans and as well
as been told in face-to-face interviews that they regard Guanajuatenses Mexicans
as anti-social. This is amazing. These are Mexicans from other regions talking
about their fellow Mexicans. It very much reminds me of those from the Midwest
and western parts of America talking about New York.
Now, I have to take the word of those who tell me this since the only place
I’ve ever lived in this country is Guanajuato. But, I am beginning to take
their word to heart and believe what they say, hook, line, and sinker. Our experience
bears out what our Extra-Guanajuatenses have told us.
Once, I got an email from a Mexican lady in Puerto Vallarta. She had read
some of my articles and columns but poo-poo’ed me as a crazy gringo. Then,
she and another Mexican girlfriend came traveling through Guanajuato. She said
she couldn’t wait to email me and tell me how many times she was shoved
off the sidewalk and pushed away from the cashier’s counter in stores.
Just this morning, my wife was in line to buy some very delicious tamales.
She placed her order and paid the guy. Before the seller could get out of his
mouth, “One moment while I get your food” a Mexican lady, one of
our congenial, warm, and kind Guanajuatenses, elbowed my wife out of line and
cut in front of her. The seller had to be someone from some other part of Mexico
because he noticed what happened and told this woman to get in line.
A month ago, some college student who thought it was appropriate to lay hands
on me and shove me a good one shoved me out of the way in a pharmacy! I wish
I could tell you that these are all isolated incidents but I would be lying.
The guy pushed me as though I was a piece of furniture that was in his way.
The mystery is how Mexicans are supposed to be such kind, generous, and accommodating
people to foreigners while in Guanajuato, you are just liable to be pushed into
the path of an oncoming bus going at the speed of light. How…how…how
is this so?
The other day, we were exiting the post office when we saw one Mexican do
something to another Mexican. This kid, in his early twenties, walked by a lady
who had set her heavy bolsa (a large shopping bag) on the sidewalk while waiting
for a cab. This young man kicked the bolsa into the street. It seemed unintentional.
He looked briefly and then walked off. The lady took off after him. While she
was trying to corral him, a bus came by and squashed her bolsa and all its contents
to smithereens.
My wife once had to catch an elderly lady who was shoved off a 12-inch-high
sidewalk by two girls who seemed not to care a wit that they almost killed one
of their fellow countrywomen.
Something else that goes on in stores all over the city—another mystery--is
something that would get Guanajuatenses killed in America. When you go to meat
counter or any place with a counter, Guanajuatenses will shove you out of the
way to bark their orders to the hired help, even though the employee was already
waiting on you. Don’t miss the picture here. There you are. You’ve
just given your order to the butcher for a kilo of hotdogs when some Señora
puts her hands on you (or elbows you) and knocks you into the middle of next
week so she can be at the front of the line.
This goes on all the time, without fail, day and night—and there’s
nothing you can do about it!
NOTHING!
Why they do it I cannot tell you. We have asked and are told that the people
of Guanajuato are “malcriados” and “maleducadas” …this
means ill-raised and badly-educated.
I think the mystery is how did they earn the warm and inviting reputation
that you read in all the guidebooks? They certainly could not have meant the
heartland of Mexico, especially not Guanajuato!
Perhaps it’s the other regions about which the guidebooks have been
talking.
I do not know!
by Douglas Bower
Article Source: EzineArticles.com | Another perspective on the state of Guanajuato from Guide2Mexico.
Guanajuato, set up in the mountains, is a twisted mess of narrow little alleys, streets and tunnels that seem designed to confuse and disorient you. But in reality it is just a product of the mountainous topography that sandwiches it along the old river bed. That is part of its charm though. At every turn you find yourself distracted by its picturesque beauty, and a constant temptation to snap a photograph. Founded in the mid 1500s, it was built along the meandering path of the Río Guanajuato. The town was plagued by floods that claimed many lives, but eventually the river was diverted. The old riverbed is now a twisting underground street that is sure to leave you without a clue about where you are on your first time through it.
If you have ever seen any drawings or paintings of Guanajuato, chances are good you have seen bits and pieces of this subterranean part of the city. During the colonial era the city was fabulously wealthy from mining. World famous mines such as La Valenciana, Mineral de Cata and Mineral de Rayas earned their wealthy owners titles of nobility. From the 16th through the 18th centuries, Guanajuato was one of Mexico's most important colonial cities, along with Queretaro, Zacatecas, San Miguel and San Luis Potosi. These cities accounted for 1/3 of the world's silver production, and with the immense wealth came elaborate architecture including many churches and mansions. In 1989 the city was declared a "World Heritage Zone".
The city remains the state's capitol, although not its largest city. Today, Guanajuato is alive with music that can regularly be heard eminating from its plazas. In the evening, groups of young people called estudiantinas stroll through town playng stringed instruments. During the Cervantinos, music seems to be coming from every corner of city. As home to a major university the city enjoys a large student population, so there is no shortage of nightlife. The bulletin boards at the university are a good place to look for news about art exibits, concerts, plays and lectures.
With a climate at an altitude of 6000 feet, Guanajuato enjoys pleasant temperatures year round. Winter evenings are cool, so a light jacket and a sweater are a good idea, but the day should bring temperatures in the 60s to 70s. The rainy season in from June to September, but that generally consist of afternoon showers and occasionally one in the evening. Otherwise expect daytime summer temperatures in the 70s.
Anytime of year is fine for visiting Guanajuato. Because of its year round popularity it is a good idea to call ahead for accommodations, but if you arrive early you can usually find somewhere to sleep. The one time of year that gets absolutely crazy is in October when the city celebrates the Festival Internacional Cervantino. During the festival, artists from all over the world come to perform their music, drama and dance. The festival is wonderful, but unless you are going to see the performances it is the most inconvenient time to visit the city. In recent years hordes of young people have turned it into a drunken street party. If that's your thing, then great. Otherwise hotels are jammed; you can't get a table at a restaurant or bar and it is even difficult to walk in some areas. | |
