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San Miguel de Allende -- Today is Wednesday, March 10, 2010 08:49 at our loyal server in the USAIf you read guidebooks or travel articles about México, you will read
that Mexicans are wonderfully accommodating, friendly, warm, and generous to
strangers. You will be given the impression these people are the “Salt
of the Earth” and maybe even virtually Saints. You will be told things
like, “Mexicans are helpful to a fault” and “they will be so
patient with you trying to learn Spanish.” While this might be true, I
have, of late, begun to doubt the multitude of clichés that pour forth
from all the guidebook and article sources about Mexico.
About 18 months into our expatriation experiment, my wife and I began to wonder
what was going on in the heartland of Mexico. The clichés we had read
in our pre-expat research were, frankly, beginning to fall apart. The longer
we lived here, the more we were beginning to see things that the guidebooks gushed
about Mexican’s congeniality weren’t necessarily true. Something
wasn’t adding up.
Guanajuato is about as much in the middle of the country as it gets. It is
truly the heartland of Mexico. Here life is uber-provincial. The dictionary defines
provincial as, “a person of local or restricted interests or outlook; a
person lacking urban polish or refinement.” I began hearing this uber-provincial
stuff more and more as the years went by. I heard this from not only American,
German, and Canadian expatriates but also from Mexicans who grew up in other
parts of Mexico and who, for one reason or another, ended up in Guanajuato.
Certain things begin to happen to us that caused us to begin asking questions.
After all, we were still very fresh and green expats who didn’t know much.
But we began to ask about this or that once things started happening.
I guess it was the first time I was knocked into the street by a Mexican and
subsequently hit by a bus that caused me to wonder what was going on. The second
time was really what got me to wondering. I was pushed off the sidewalk not once
but twice into the path of an oncoming bus and was struck. Not once did anyone
stop to see if I was all right. The pushers never bothered to utter one word
to me. My wife has also been pushed and shoved off sidewalks. I have a 70-year-old
American gringa pal who was pushed into the path of a taxi and was nailed.
One just has to ask what is happening in Guanajuato, Mexico.
I wish I could tell you.
What I began to see long ago was that the Guanajuatenses on the street are
practically running to get somewhere but never arrive on time for anything. Although
all of Latin American (and Italy) is famous for how they regard time differently
than the rest of the world, this has slowly been changing in the more metropolitan
areas of Mexico. More and more, Mexicans are beginning to forsake their traditional
understanding of what it means to be on time for anything. Not so in Guanajuato.
It is just as traditional here as it has been for centuries. Some say the heartland
of Mexico is “stuck in the past.”
But, what you have are Guanajuatenses running at the speed of light and, I
can assure you, to get nowhere fast. They are absolutely not trying to get somewhere
on time. It is a cultural affectation here in Guanajuato. They will never, ever
arrive on time for anything. This is a total mystery in and of itself. Why are
they running? They never arrive on time for anything so what’s the rush?
So, you may logically ask, why are they running down the sidewalk knocking
gringos into the gutter? I wish I could tell you, but I can’t.
I have asked Mexicans because I have the facility in the language to do so.
Most of those I have questioned are not from Guanajuato originally. They are
here for a job, marriage, or whatever, and have been transplanted from other
regions of Mexico.
To my amazement, these Guanajuato transplants have told me that they view
the people of Guanajuato as some of the rudest, most ill educated, and most ill
reared Mexicans in the country. I have gotten emails from Mexicans and as well
as been told in face-to-face interviews that they regard Guanajuatenses Mexicans
as anti-social. This is amazing. These are Mexicans from other regions talking
about their fellow Mexicans. It very much reminds me of those from the Midwest
and western parts of America talking about New York.
Now, I have to take the word of those who tell me this since the only place
I’ve ever lived in this country is Guanajuato. But, I am beginning to take
their word to heart and believe what they say, hook, line, and sinker. Our experience
bears out what our Extra-Guanajuatenses have told us.
Once, I got an email from a Mexican lady in Puerto Vallarta. She had read
some of my articles and columns but poo-poo’ed me as a crazy gringo. Then,
she and another Mexican girlfriend came traveling through Guanajuato. She said
she couldn’t wait to email me and tell me how many times she was shoved
off the sidewalk and pushed away from the cashier’s counter in stores.
Just this morning, my wife was in line to buy some very delicious tamales.
She placed her order and paid the guy. Before the seller could get out of his
mouth, “One moment while I get your food” a Mexican lady, one of
our congenial, warm, and kind Guanajuatenses, elbowed my wife out of line and
cut in front of her. The seller had to be someone from some other part of Mexico
because he noticed what happened and told this woman to get in line.
A month ago, some college student who thought it was appropriate to lay hands
on me and shove me a good one shoved me out of the way in a pharmacy! I wish
I could tell you that these are all isolated incidents but I would be lying.
The guy pushed me as though I was a piece of furniture that was in his way.
The mystery is how Mexicans are supposed to be such kind, generous, and accommodating
people to foreigners while in Guanajuato, you are just liable to be pushed into
the path of an oncoming bus going at the speed of light. How…how…how
is this so?
The other day, we were exiting the post office when we saw one Mexican do
something to another Mexican. This kid, in his early twenties, walked by a lady
who had set her heavy bolsa (a large shopping bag) on the sidewalk while waiting
for a cab. This young man kicked the bolsa into the street. It seemed unintentional.
He looked briefly and then walked off. The lady took off after him. While she
was trying to corral him, a bus came by and squashed her bolsa and all its contents
to smithereens.
My wife once had to catch an elderly lady who was shoved off a 12-inch-high
sidewalk by two girls who seemed not to care a wit that they almost killed one
of their fellow countrywomen.
Something else that goes on in stores all over the city—another mystery--is
something that would get Guanajuatenses killed in America. When you go to meat
counter or any place with a counter, Guanajuatenses will shove you out of the
way to bark their orders to the hired help, even though the employee was already
waiting on you. Don’t miss the picture here. There you are. You’ve
just given your order to the butcher for a kilo of hotdogs when some Señora
puts her hands on you (or elbows you) and knocks you into the middle of next
week so she can be at the front of the line.
This goes on all the time, without fail, day and night—and there’s
nothing you can do about it!
NOTHING!
Why they do it I cannot tell you. We have asked and are told that the people
of Guanajuato are “malcriados” and “maleducadas” …this
means ill-raised and badly-educated.
I think the mystery is how did they earn the warm and inviting reputation
that you read in all the guidebooks? They certainly could not have meant the
heartland of Mexico, especially not Guanajuato!
Perhaps it’s the other regions about which the guidebooks have been
talking.
I do not know!
by Douglas Bower
Article Source: EzineArticles.com | There are a thousand and one descriptions of San Miguel de Allende written over the past decades. Here's one writer's short take:
San Miguel's reputation as an arts center was established by the founding of the Allende Institute. One of its American founders, Stirling Dickson, came to Mexico as a tourist in the 1930s and fell in love with the city. A painter and engraver, he helped inaugurate the institute in 1950 and was its director until 1987. The lovely building housing the school once was owned by the wealthy Canal familiy. Fountains, arcades and courtyards gardens grace the grounds of the campus, which has extensive classroom space, two are galleries, a theter and a library.
Students from throughout the Americas take advantage of the art and language classes offered, and the institute also functions as a campus abroad for several American and Canadian art schools. The Centro Cultural Bellas Artes, is also known as the Centro Cultural el Nigromante (its official name) and the Centro Cultural Ignacio Ramirez. It is a branch of the wellknown Instituto de Bellas Artes in Mexico City. The impressive building, which dates from the mid-18th century, was once the Convento de la Concepcion and features an immense, tree-shaded courtyard. It offers music, dance and visual arts classes; a bulletin board lists lectures and concerts given both here and elsewhere in the city. Several murals are also exhibited, including one by David Alfaro Siqueirs.
San Miquel is known for the variety and quality of its regionally produced handycrafts. Metalwork -- masks, trays, lanterns, picture frames and decorative objects made of tin, copper, brass, bronze and wrought iron -- and the design of local silversmiths are particularly worth seeking out. Also available are pottery, weaving, sculpture, straw items, hand-loomed cambaya cloth (a material frequently used to make skirts), and folk and traditional art.
The colonial furniture is some of the finest produced in Mexico. Open-air Mercado Ignacio Ramirez, the city market, fills the plaza in front of the Oratorio de San Felipe Neri, and spreads onto the surrounding streets. Livestock and fresh preduce share space with inexpensive everyday items and souvenirs at the cheaper end of the price scale. The Mercado de Artesanias consists of vendor stalls in an alley. Pricier boutiques are scatted throughout the downtown area. Art galleries are concentrated around the main plaza, and exhibit openings are big social events. Two that showcase both regional and national talents are Galeria San Miguel and Galeria Atena. | From the Vip Club Newsletter for San Miguel de Allende with information on restaurant discounts available for club members who have purchased the VIP Club Discount Card
- Alfredo's: 1520072, Inside Posada San Francisco Hotel.
Fine dining, international cuisine, lunch and dinner, 1 - 10pm daily, closed
Mondays. 20% discount for cash.
- BBQ Bob's - Salida de Celaya #6, 152-0807.
(10%) ($100 pesos minimum).
- Berlin - (10%) ($100 pesos minimum, cash)
- Buen Café - Jesus & Cuadrante, 152-5807.
Breakfast, lunch and dinner. Closed Sundays. (20%) ($100 peso minimum)
- Bugambilia - Hidalgo #42, 152-0127.
Lunch and dinner. Traditional Mexican dishes. (20%) (no credit cards for
discount).
- Café San Francisco, Posada San Francisco - Plaza
Principal 2, 152-0072.
Courtyard and street side dining, full menu, Mexican cuisine including seafood
and full bar. (20%.)
- Casa Blanca - Hidalgo #34, 154-6070. Famous for crepes,
pizza and international cuisine. (15%) ($100 pesos minimum)
- Casa Montana Hotel Restaurant, Pozos - Jardín
Principal, 01 (442) 293-0032 International and national dishes in the midst of
a one-time old ghost town in a small luxury hotel. (20%)
- Casa Payo - Zacateros #26. 152-7277.
Landmark San Miguel Argentinean steak house. (10%)
- Don Quijote - Prolongación de Pila Seca #55,
152-0807. Bar and Grill, famous ribs and burgers, lunch and dinner. Closed Mondays.
(20% cash, 10% credit cards)
- El Asador Catlán - Km. 9 Salida a Querétaro, 120-8118
Open 1 until 7pm. Closed Mondays. Renowned traditional Spanish fare. 15% cash,
10% credit card
- El Correo Restaurant - Correo #23, 152-4951 Good traditional
Mexican food, full bar, closed Tuesdays. (15% cash, 10% credit card)
- El Puente,Canal 48, 154-8466, open everyday,
breakfast, lunch and dinner, 8:30 - 11:30 pm, featuring seafood and molés.(10%)
- Finnegan's Restaurant, two entrances, off Codo or
off Zacateros. Full menu, live entertainment, Wednesday through Saturday evenings,
with a live Sunday Jazz session from 3-5pm. The menu is a mixed bag including
Mexican dishes and some of international fame. (10%)
- El Tomato, Mesones #62, 151-6057, Open,
Monday through Saturday, 9 a.m. - 9 p.m. All natural food restaurant, mostly
vegetarian dishes and sandwiches, salads fruits and vegetable juices. 10 %, not
valid for daily special.
- Hacienda los Laureles: Open 1-11pm, everyday but Tuesdays.
Indoor and outdoor seating. Full bar, extensive menu traditional Mexican foods,
Sunday buffet. (20%)
- Harry's New Orleans Cafe and Oyster Bar - Hidalgo #12,
152-2645 for dinner reservations. New Orleans Cafe, Fresh sea food, cajun and
creole dishes, extensive wine list, open 7 days a week. (10%, Cash only)
- La Fragua - Cuna de Allende #3, 152-1144
One of the most traditional restaurants in San Miguel, chef Fernando is your
host with special recipes, full bar. Closed Mondays. (10%)
- La Boca: Hernandez Macias #88, open everyday
except Mondays, tasty sandwiches, pastas, soups and salads, along with other
specials. they sport a full bar open 'til midnight weeknights and 1 a.m. (15%)
- L'Escargot, Hernandez Macias #66, 154-9024.
Authentic French cuisine Lunch and dinner, specialties like Beef Wellington,
Oyster Rockefeller and escargot. Closed Mondays. 15% discount.
- La Puertecita - Santa Domingo #75 , 152-5011.
Rated internationally, as one of the top 100 small luxury hotels in the entire
world. (20%) (no discount on buffets)
- La Princesa - Recreo (20%)
- La Toscana, Hernandez Macias #83, 154-9608,
open daily 1 p.m. until midnight, closed Tuesdays. Full bar and menu: Salads,
a variety of pastas with various sauces, beefs, poultry and salmon. Wines from
Italy, Spain, France, Argentina and Chile. 15% discount Cash only. $100 peso
minimum.
- La Vista, Vista Real Hotel Restaurant: Callejón
de Arias #4, 152-3984. Hotel restaurant, International dining room and exquisite
view of San Miguel. (20%)
- L'Invito (Instituto Allende) - Ancha de San Antonio
#20, 152-7333. Serving authentic recipes from the north of Italy great ambience.
(20%) (Instituto Allende)
- Los Famosos De Pozos - Hidalgo #10B, Mineral de Pozos, Guanajuato.
01 442 293 0112, quaint seeting retaurant in the so called ghost town of Pozos
offering a full menu and bar while serving traditional Mexican food.
- Manolo's - Corner of Pila Seca and Zacateros 152-7277
Intimate sports bar, appetizers, full meals, draft beer, Sporting events, satellite
direct TV. (15%)
- Market Bistro & Petit Bar - Hernandez Macias #95,
152-3229. Country French cooking. Imported wines. Daily until 11pm, midnight
on weekends. (15%, $100 peso minimum at bar)
- Mesón Castellano - Salida a Celaya #57.
Spanish restaurant featuring paella. (15%)
- Mesón de San José - Mesones #38, 152-3848.
Located back in a courtyard off Calle Mesones, Homemade soups and fresh salads.
(20%) ($100 peso minimum)
- Olé Olé - Loreto #66, 152-0896. The best
fajitas en the region, (10%)
- Pueblo Viejo - Umarán #6, 152-4977. Breakfast,
lunch and dinner, Traditional Mexican and international dishes. (20%)
- QUANDO foods, vacuum-sealed, frozen, comfort foods easy
to prepare while placed in boiling water. Quando sells gourmet type food products
that includes, soups, main dishes and deserts. Some of their selections are:
Mushroom chicken roll, potato chicken roll, Coq au Vin with risotto, Chinese
ribs, Lisbon, French and Valencia pork dishes, Toas chicken, chicken pot pie,
meat loaf and much-much more. For club members this is a DELIVERY SERVICE ONLY.
The 10% discount offered to members is NOT INCLUDED at retail outlets where they
also market Quando products. There is a 30 peso delivery charge. Members can
call 152-5153, 152-0038 or 044-415-153-3444 for immediate delivery. Ask for Pam
or Cindy.
- Punta Sush Ingo: Hildago #23,
1521619. Combination sushi bar and internet cafe. Open seven days a week. (10%)
- Sierra Nevada - Hospicio #35, 152-0415. San Miguel's
prestigious hotel, all three of its charming restaurants are available.
Also try Sierra Nevada on the park, just below the Chorro, one of San Miguel's
most beautiful settings. 15% cash or credit card (all three locations)
- Tapas y Tinis: Umaran #36, Modern bar and restaurant,
intimate atmosphere, serving tapas, serves late (10%)
- Ten Ten Pie Restaurant: Corner of Cuadrante and Cuna
Allende, Small, clean and resonable prices, local restaurant, open seven days
a week, serving breakfast lunch and dinner, serves late (10%) (20% off spirits)
- Tio Lucas: Mesones #103, 1524996, Hallmark San Miguel
steakhouse, plus. Open seven days, serves late, nightly entertainment. (10%)
- Villa Rivera Hotel Restaurant, Cuadrante #1, 152-2289.
Behind the Parroquia. Inside and outside dining. International menu, wonderful
ambience, Breakfast, lunch and dinner. (20%)
- Villa Mirasol; Inside Villa Mirasol Hotel, open for
breakfast and lunch in garden setting. (10%)
New restaurants are added frequently, and occasionally
restaurants drop out of the program with 60 days notice. Ask for the bi-monthly
restaurant club newsletter at authorized outlets for detailed information on
restaurants and the current list of participants. All participating restaurants
are under contract with the San Miguel Restaurant Club to provide the same fine
service as they would to patrons who walk in off the street. Discounts are waived
during happy hours, 2X1 specials or other special events in which the restaurant
is offering discounts to the public at large.
Notice: Certain
Restaurants and Businesses may have restrictions that do not appear on this website.
Please contact The Restaurant Club directly for a complete list of participating
businesses and restrictions. | I thought I would write a follow-up to my column, “Move Over San Miguel
de Allende Here I Come”, since this is the only thing, writing, that prevents
from committing murderous acts of rage (Just Joking!) As you recall from the
previous column, I wrote how I tried to deposit a royalty check from my publisher
and was told the check would clear on four different dates. We were shown, last
week, on their computer screen that the funds would be available on the 18th
of December.
Well, today is the 18th. We marched down to the bank and, of course, in the
truest sense of TMO (Typical Mexican Operation) the funds were not available.
We went into the bank so I could seize a bank officer and choke him (just kidding!).
No, we talked to this guy who thought it cute to mumble at us. He actually told
us something entirely new.
He said that “the 18th” did not really mean “the 18th” but
it meant sometime after 6 p.m. on the 18th but before mid-night on the 18th and…and…maybe
even the 19th.
CAN YOU BELIEVE THIS?
This my dear readers is what we anal-retentive Americans (and “strung-tighter-than-piano
wire Germans”) have to deal with when we become expatriates living in Mexico.
It would seem, and I could be wrong, that Mexican banks just make up stuff as
they go along. There are no policy manuals, procedural steps, no rules, just
the “fly-by-the-seat-of-your-pants” way of doing things.
“Qué Será, Será: What ever will be, will be. The
future’s not ours to see. Qué Será, Será.”
This is exactly how things are done in central México. I have to tell
you though, those from other regions of the country are as dumbfounded as I am.
They tell me that this region of Mexico is “stuck in time and history.” They
are provincial to the point of having been throw into a time loop and cannot
escape the temporal hole they’ve been in since the middle ages. Time forgot
central Mexico and no one seems to really care to crawl out of this dimensional
morass in which they are quagmired.
What are we going to do?
I do not know. But, we are looking to other areas of Mexico that may not be
like living in a Latino Twilight Zone.
My fellow American expat said this:
“That what Mexico needs is a Business Manager. These people need a Business
Manager in everything that has to do with anything to show them how things work.
This is because in all aspects of life, at least in Guanajuato, no one who does
anything that has to do with something knows just how it is suppose to work.”
She has no idea what truth she spoke!
by Douglas Bower
Article Source: EzineArticles.com | from MexicoDiscovered.com which also has a Discover Mexico magazine.
San Miguel de Allende and Pozos
Mexico's most cultured retirement haven - and most popular artistic destination, was declared a Mexican national Monument in 1926. This meant that while other towns pulled down heritage buildings and replaced them with glass and steel boxes San Miguel was off-limits to that form of modernization. Without this single gesture, San Miguel may have become just another slightly decaying backwater - that time and the major highways left behind - instead of the architecturally pristine city we love.
But what a National Monument! Its proximity to the nearby silver cities of the Bajio meant that by the eighteenth century it was an important way station en route to Mexico City and an agriculture centre supplying the needs of the burgeoning city of Guanajuato. Spaniards, wealthy from extracting silver, built magnificent palaces here and then enhanced their already enormous fortunes farming the surrounding countryside through huge estates with equally magnificent haciendas as their centrepiece. Further enhancing the architectural splendour are ornate churches and oratorios that owe their existence to the patronage of these wealthy patrons - and the sweat and slave-like servitude of indigenous Indians. Despite the fact that many of the palaces and haciendas were gutted and plundered during the Mexican Revolution in the second decade of the last century, the basic structures were still extant in 1926.
It was this slightly scarred and somewhat neglected eighteenth century architectural masterpiece that so enamoured the few foreigners who ventured through here in the late 1920's and early 1930's. Set in the pastoral rolling hills of the Bajio, watered by natural springs, enjoying a spring like climate all year and suffused with a light beloved by artists, how could they resist. One such person was American, Sterling Dickinson who, recognized the possibilities, and founded the now internationally renowned Instituto Allende in 1938 as a place of study for fellow ex patriots. This was the second pivotal action that ensured San Miguel de Allende's future for, with the end of World War II came the United States GI Bill that supplied education grants to returning servicemen. These GIs soon discovered their limited funds went farther in San Miguel and the Institute thrived. A vibrant artistic and cultural society grew up around a still small but permanent expatriate community that serviced their needs. Many of these visiting students never left, instead they became the kernel of a growing artistic community that, generations later, continues to be supplemented by new infusions of artistic talent that also fall in love with San Miguel's special "light". At the same time, many of the wealthy tourists originally attracted by the town's reputation, returned to reside here on a permanent or semi-permanent basis. Attracted by this charming and safe city with a perfect climate they, in turn, became the basis of the well-heeled semi retirement community that San Miguel is today. At the same time other less wealthy (or merely more ambitious) visitors saw the opportunities afforded by this influx and opened even more businesses to serve this expanding tourist and residential market. These North Americans had the desire and the funds to restore the many badly neglected buildings - in accordance with the strict 1926 guidelines - that, today, the town is effectively an eighteenth century wonder with electricity and running water!
Well, not quite. The ubiquitous internal combustion engine knows no limits and San Miguel is no exception. Her narrow, winding and often very steep cobblestone streets can soon get jammed with noisy diesel spewing trucks and buses as well as the latest gas guzzling SUVs. Ironically perhaps it is the modern SUV that is the most appropriate vehicle to ply the uneven 200 year old cobblestone streets. Certainly, its 4 wheel drive capability comes in handy when the summer rains hit and the more steeply sloped streets become slick and traction becomes your number one priority. If it isn't, you will soon get used to walking that little bit extra just to avoid the problem of finding that most rare of things in downtown San Miguel - a parking spot.
The relationship between the expatriate and Mexican communities is remarkably cordial. One even gets the impression there is only one community. This is born of the fact that the two live side-by-side and both benefit from the other despite the fact that (with the notable exception of a comparatively small number of middle and upper class Mexicans) most expatriates are wealthier than their neighbours. Poverty and crime do exist in the peripheral Mexican areas of town but a strong tradition of volunteer work within the expatriate community has ameliorated many of the resentments such an "invading army" of privileged foreigners could have engendered. Certainly, San Miguel attracts relatively wealthy people, but they don't flaunt it. That is not what San Miguel is about. Any such wealth is generally hidden behind the enclosed walls and high gates of the town - for this is a town that values and encourages cultural and social endeavours above overt displays of wealth.
Members of the expatriate community who operate businesses here is one reason the town works so well. They have created jobs and so generated a higher standard of living and quality of life for all San Miguel residents. I was fortunate to meet a number of them - mainly in the real estate and hospitality fields - and was struck by the fact that many of them put as much time and energy into their social and charitable concerns as they did into their commercial pursuits. Dotty Vidargas of Vidargas Real Estate, for example, has lived in San Miguel for 40 years and is one of the driving forces restoring the nearby Santuario at Atotonilco. In contrast, Lane Simmons at Remax Colonial Real Estate became so involved with helping the town's poorer families and abused children that he and his wife have legally adopted two of the children he "rescued". Interestingly, most of San Miguel's realty companies are long established concerns. They know the San Miguel housing market inside out. As part of San Miguel society for decades they are able to impart to potential purchasers that they are buying into a community not just a home.
But whether they are house-hunting or just passing through, visitors need somewhere to stay. On the face of it that should not be a problem in San Miguel where the number of hotels, inns and B & Bs must exceed that of any town of comparable size in Mexico. Most, however, are small - with as few as 3 rooms - so don't be too confident you'll find a room without booking ahead! Old favourites in the deluxe class, such as the Casa de Sierra Nevada and la Puertecita must now compete with the intimate luxury of small exclusive enclaves such as Casa Quetzal among many where American amenities meet the best of Mexican design and influence, while less expensive old time landmark hotels such as the Mansion del Bosque remain perennial favourites.
Some San Miguelites have "discovered" a new San Miguel at Mineral de Pozos just 45 minutes from San Miguel. Popularly called Pozos it is a protected old silver mining town where many of its old mansions are being lovingly restored. In the main square are two hotels adjoining one another. The Casa Montana is the more recent addition but, even newer is the recently opened Real de Minas B&B. Both are American owned and are just two of the gringo vanguard already settled with established businesses here. Many more will come! | |