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San Miguel de Allende -- Today is Sunday, August 01, 2010 02:09 at our loyal server in the USAIf you read guidebooks or travel articles about México, you will read
that Mexicans are wonderfully accommodating, friendly, warm, and generous to
strangers. You will be given the impression these people are the “Salt
of the Earth” and maybe even virtually Saints. You will be told things
like, “Mexicans are helpful to a fault” and “they will be so
patient with you trying to learn Spanish.” While this might be true, I
have, of late, begun to doubt the multitude of clichés that pour forth
from all the guidebook and article sources about Mexico.
About 18 months into our expatriation experiment, my wife and I began to wonder
what was going on in the heartland of Mexico. The clichés we had read
in our pre-expat research were, frankly, beginning to fall apart. The longer
we lived here, the more we were beginning to see things that the guidebooks gushed
about Mexican’s congeniality weren’t necessarily true. Something
wasn’t adding up.
Guanajuato is about as much in the middle of the country as it gets. It is
truly the heartland of Mexico. Here life is uber-provincial. The dictionary defines
provincial as, “a person of local or restricted interests or outlook; a
person lacking urban polish or refinement.” I began hearing this uber-provincial
stuff more and more as the years went by. I heard this from not only American,
German, and Canadian expatriates but also from Mexicans who grew up in other
parts of Mexico and who, for one reason or another, ended up in Guanajuato.
Certain things begin to happen to us that caused us to begin asking questions.
After all, we were still very fresh and green expats who didn’t know much.
But we began to ask about this or that once things started happening.
I guess it was the first time I was knocked into the street by a Mexican and
subsequently hit by a bus that caused me to wonder what was going on. The second
time was really what got me to wondering. I was pushed off the sidewalk not once
but twice into the path of an oncoming bus and was struck. Not once did anyone
stop to see if I was all right. The pushers never bothered to utter one word
to me. My wife has also been pushed and shoved off sidewalks. I have a 70-year-old
American gringa pal who was pushed into the path of a taxi and was nailed.
One just has to ask what is happening in Guanajuato, Mexico.
I wish I could tell you.
What I began to see long ago was that the Guanajuatenses on the street are
practically running to get somewhere but never arrive on time for anything. Although
all of Latin American (and Italy) is famous for how they regard time differently
than the rest of the world, this has slowly been changing in the more metropolitan
areas of Mexico. More and more, Mexicans are beginning to forsake their traditional
understanding of what it means to be on time for anything. Not so in Guanajuato.
It is just as traditional here as it has been for centuries. Some say the heartland
of Mexico is “stuck in the past.”
But, what you have are Guanajuatenses running at the speed of light and, I
can assure you, to get nowhere fast. They are absolutely not trying to get somewhere
on time. It is a cultural affectation here in Guanajuato. They will never, ever
arrive on time for anything. This is a total mystery in and of itself. Why are
they running? They never arrive on time for anything so what’s the rush?
So, you may logically ask, why are they running down the sidewalk knocking
gringos into the gutter? I wish I could tell you, but I can’t.
I have asked Mexicans because I have the facility in the language to do so.
Most of those I have questioned are not from Guanajuato originally. They are
here for a job, marriage, or whatever, and have been transplanted from other
regions of Mexico.
To my amazement, these Guanajuato transplants have told me that they view
the people of Guanajuato as some of the rudest, most ill educated, and most ill
reared Mexicans in the country. I have gotten emails from Mexicans and as well
as been told in face-to-face interviews that they regard Guanajuatenses Mexicans
as anti-social. This is amazing. These are Mexicans from other regions talking
about their fellow Mexicans. It very much reminds me of those from the Midwest
and western parts of America talking about New York.
Now, I have to take the word of those who tell me this since the only place
I’ve ever lived in this country is Guanajuato. But, I am beginning to take
their word to heart and believe what they say, hook, line, and sinker. Our experience
bears out what our Extra-Guanajuatenses have told us.
Once, I got an email from a Mexican lady in Puerto Vallarta. She had read
some of my articles and columns but poo-poo’ed me as a crazy gringo. Then,
she and another Mexican girlfriend came traveling through Guanajuato. She said
she couldn’t wait to email me and tell me how many times she was shoved
off the sidewalk and pushed away from the cashier’s counter in stores.
Just this morning, my wife was in line to buy some very delicious tamales.
She placed her order and paid the guy. Before the seller could get out of his
mouth, “One moment while I get your food” a Mexican lady, one of
our congenial, warm, and kind Guanajuatenses, elbowed my wife out of line and
cut in front of her. The seller had to be someone from some other part of Mexico
because he noticed what happened and told this woman to get in line.
A month ago, some college student who thought it was appropriate to lay hands
on me and shove me a good one shoved me out of the way in a pharmacy! I wish
I could tell you that these are all isolated incidents but I would be lying.
The guy pushed me as though I was a piece of furniture that was in his way.
The mystery is how Mexicans are supposed to be such kind, generous, and accommodating
people to foreigners while in Guanajuato, you are just liable to be pushed into
the path of an oncoming bus going at the speed of light. How…how…how
is this so?
The other day, we were exiting the post office when we saw one Mexican do
something to another Mexican. This kid, in his early twenties, walked by a lady
who had set her heavy bolsa (a large shopping bag) on the sidewalk while waiting
for a cab. This young man kicked the bolsa into the street. It seemed unintentional.
He looked briefly and then walked off. The lady took off after him. While she
was trying to corral him, a bus came by and squashed her bolsa and all its contents
to smithereens.
My wife once had to catch an elderly lady who was shoved off a 12-inch-high
sidewalk by two girls who seemed not to care a wit that they almost killed one
of their fellow countrywomen.
Something else that goes on in stores all over the city—another mystery--is
something that would get Guanajuatenses killed in America. When you go to meat
counter or any place with a counter, Guanajuatenses will shove you out of the
way to bark their orders to the hired help, even though the employee was already
waiting on you. Don’t miss the picture here. There you are. You’ve
just given your order to the butcher for a kilo of hotdogs when some Señora
puts her hands on you (or elbows you) and knocks you into the middle of next
week so she can be at the front of the line.
This goes on all the time, without fail, day and night—and there’s
nothing you can do about it!
NOTHING!
Why they do it I cannot tell you. We have asked and are told that the people
of Guanajuato are “malcriados” and “maleducadas” …this
means ill-raised and badly-educated.
I think the mystery is how did they earn the warm and inviting reputation
that you read in all the guidebooks? They certainly could not have meant the
heartland of Mexico, especially not Guanajuato!
Perhaps it’s the other regions about which the guidebooks have been
talking.
I do not know!
by Douglas Bower
Article Source: EzineArticles.com | Another perspective on the state of Guanajuato from Guide2Mexico.
Guanajuato, set up in the mountains, is a twisted mess of narrow little alleys, streets and tunnels that seem designed to confuse and disorient you. But in reality it is just a product of the mountainous topography that sandwiches it along the old river bed. That is part of its charm though. At every turn you find yourself distracted by its picturesque beauty, and a constant temptation to snap a photograph. Founded in the mid 1500s, it was built along the meandering path of the Río Guanajuato. The town was plagued by floods that claimed many lives, but eventually the river was diverted. The old riverbed is now a twisting underground street that is sure to leave you without a clue about where you are on your first time through it.
If you have ever seen any drawings or paintings of Guanajuato, chances are good you have seen bits and pieces of this subterranean part of the city. During the colonial era the city was fabulously wealthy from mining. World famous mines such as La Valenciana, Mineral de Cata and Mineral de Rayas earned their wealthy owners titles of nobility. From the 16th through the 18th centuries, Guanajuato was one of Mexico's most important colonial cities, along with Queretaro, Zacatecas, San Miguel and San Luis Potosi. These cities accounted for 1/3 of the world's silver production, and with the immense wealth came elaborate architecture including many churches and mansions. In 1989 the city was declared a "World Heritage Zone".
The city remains the state's capitol, although not its largest city. Today, Guanajuato is alive with music that can regularly be heard eminating from its plazas. In the evening, groups of young people called estudiantinas stroll through town playng stringed instruments. During the Cervantinos, music seems to be coming from every corner of city. As home to a major university the city enjoys a large student population, so there is no shortage of nightlife. The bulletin boards at the university are a good place to look for news about art exibits, concerts, plays and lectures.
With a climate at an altitude of 6000 feet, Guanajuato enjoys pleasant temperatures year round. Winter evenings are cool, so a light jacket and a sweater are a good idea, but the day should bring temperatures in the 60s to 70s. The rainy season in from June to September, but that generally consist of afternoon showers and occasionally one in the evening. Otherwise expect daytime summer temperatures in the 70s.
Anytime of year is fine for visiting Guanajuato. Because of its year round popularity it is a good idea to call ahead for accommodations, but if you arrive early you can usually find somewhere to sleep. The one time of year that gets absolutely crazy is in October when the city celebrates the Festival Internacional Cervantino. During the festival, artists from all over the world come to perform their music, drama and dance. The festival is wonderful, but unless you are going to see the performances it is the most inconvenient time to visit the city. In recent years hordes of young people have turned it into a drunken street party. If that's your thing, then great. Otherwise hotels are jammed; you can't get a table at a restaurant or bar and it is even difficult to walk in some areas. | From the Vip Club Newsletter for San Miguel de Allende with information on restaurant discounts available for club members who have purchased the VIP Club Discount Card
- Alfredo's: 1520072, Inside Posada San Francisco Hotel.
Fine dining, international cuisine, lunch and dinner, 1 - 10pm daily, closed
Mondays. 20% discount for cash.
- BBQ Bob's - Salida de Celaya #6, 152-0807.
(10%) ($100 pesos minimum).
- Berlin - (10%) ($100 pesos minimum, cash)
- Buen Café - Jesus & Cuadrante, 152-5807.
Breakfast, lunch and dinner. Closed Sundays. (20%) ($100 peso minimum)
- Bugambilia - Hidalgo #42, 152-0127.
Lunch and dinner. Traditional Mexican dishes. (20%) (no credit cards for
discount).
- Café San Francisco, Posada San Francisco - Plaza
Principal 2, 152-0072.
Courtyard and street side dining, full menu, Mexican cuisine including seafood
and full bar. (20%.)
- Casa Blanca - Hidalgo #34, 154-6070. Famous for crepes,
pizza and international cuisine. (15%) ($100 pesos minimum)
- Casa Montana Hotel Restaurant, Pozos - Jardín
Principal, 01 (442) 293-0032 International and national dishes in the midst of
a one-time old ghost town in a small luxury hotel. (20%)
- Casa Payo - Zacateros #26. 152-7277.
Landmark San Miguel Argentinean steak house. (10%)
- Don Quijote - Prolongación de Pila Seca #55,
152-0807. Bar and Grill, famous ribs and burgers, lunch and dinner. Closed Mondays.
(20% cash, 10% credit cards)
- El Asador Catlán - Km. 9 Salida a Querétaro, 120-8118
Open 1 until 7pm. Closed Mondays. Renowned traditional Spanish fare. 15% cash,
10% credit card
- El Correo Restaurant - Correo #23, 152-4951 Good traditional
Mexican food, full bar, closed Tuesdays. (15% cash, 10% credit card)
- El Puente,Canal 48, 154-8466, open everyday,
breakfast, lunch and dinner, 8:30 - 11:30 pm, featuring seafood and molés.(10%)
- Finnegan's Restaurant, two entrances, off Codo or
off Zacateros. Full menu, live entertainment, Wednesday through Saturday evenings,
with a live Sunday Jazz session from 3-5pm. The menu is a mixed bag including
Mexican dishes and some of international fame. (10%)
- El Tomato, Mesones #62, 151-6057, Open,
Monday through Saturday, 9 a.m. - 9 p.m. All natural food restaurant, mostly
vegetarian dishes and sandwiches, salads fruits and vegetable juices. 10 %, not
valid for daily special.
- Hacienda los Laureles: Open 1-11pm, everyday but Tuesdays.
Indoor and outdoor seating. Full bar, extensive menu traditional Mexican foods,
Sunday buffet. (20%)
- Harry's New Orleans Cafe and Oyster Bar - Hidalgo #12,
152-2645 for dinner reservations. New Orleans Cafe, Fresh sea food, cajun and
creole dishes, extensive wine list, open 7 days a week. (10%, Cash only)
- La Fragua - Cuna de Allende #3, 152-1144
One of the most traditional restaurants in San Miguel, chef Fernando is your
host with special recipes, full bar. Closed Mondays. (10%)
- La Boca: Hernandez Macias #88, open everyday
except Mondays, tasty sandwiches, pastas, soups and salads, along with other
specials. they sport a full bar open 'til midnight weeknights and 1 a.m. (15%)
- L'Escargot, Hernandez Macias #66, 154-9024.
Authentic French cuisine Lunch and dinner, specialties like Beef Wellington,
Oyster Rockefeller and escargot. Closed Mondays. 15% discount.
- La Puertecita - Santa Domingo #75 , 152-5011.
Rated internationally, as one of the top 100 small luxury hotels in the entire
world. (20%) (no discount on buffets)
- La Princesa - Recreo (20%)
- La Toscana, Hernandez Macias #83, 154-9608,
open daily 1 p.m. until midnight, closed Tuesdays. Full bar and menu: Salads,
a variety of pastas with various sauces, beefs, poultry and salmon. Wines from
Italy, Spain, France, Argentina and Chile. 15% discount Cash only. $100 peso
minimum.
- La Vista, Vista Real Hotel Restaurant: Callejón
de Arias #4, 152-3984. Hotel restaurant, International dining room and exquisite
view of San Miguel. (20%)
- L'Invito (Instituto Allende) - Ancha de San Antonio
#20, 152-7333. Serving authentic recipes from the north of Italy great ambience.
(20%) (Instituto Allende)
- Los Famosos De Pozos - Hidalgo #10B, Mineral de Pozos, Guanajuato.
01 442 293 0112, quaint seeting retaurant in the so called ghost town of Pozos
offering a full menu and bar while serving traditional Mexican food.
- Manolo's - Corner of Pila Seca and Zacateros 152-7277
Intimate sports bar, appetizers, full meals, draft beer, Sporting events, satellite
direct TV. (15%)
- Market Bistro & Petit Bar - Hernandez Macias #95,
152-3229. Country French cooking. Imported wines. Daily until 11pm, midnight
on weekends. (15%, $100 peso minimum at bar)
- Mesón Castellano - Salida a Celaya #57.
Spanish restaurant featuring paella. (15%)
- Mesón de San José - Mesones #38, 152-3848.
Located back in a courtyard off Calle Mesones, Homemade soups and fresh salads.
(20%) ($100 peso minimum)
- Olé Olé - Loreto #66, 152-0896. The best
fajitas en the region, (10%)
- Pueblo Viejo - Umarán #6, 152-4977. Breakfast,
lunch and dinner, Traditional Mexican and international dishes. (20%)
- QUANDO foods, vacuum-sealed, frozen, comfort foods easy
to prepare while placed in boiling water. Quando sells gourmet type food products
that includes, soups, main dishes and deserts. Some of their selections are:
Mushroom chicken roll, potato chicken roll, Coq au Vin with risotto, Chinese
ribs, Lisbon, French and Valencia pork dishes, Toas chicken, chicken pot pie,
meat loaf and much-much more. For club members this is a DELIVERY SERVICE ONLY.
The 10% discount offered to members is NOT INCLUDED at retail outlets where they
also market Quando products. There is a 30 peso delivery charge. Members can
call 152-5153, 152-0038 or 044-415-153-3444 for immediate delivery. Ask for Pam
or Cindy.
- Punta Sush Ingo: Hildago #23,
1521619. Combination sushi bar and internet cafe. Open seven days a week. (10%)
- Sierra Nevada - Hospicio #35, 152-0415. San Miguel's
prestigious hotel, all three of its charming restaurants are available.
Also try Sierra Nevada on the park, just below the Chorro, one of San Miguel's
most beautiful settings. 15% cash or credit card (all three locations)
- Tapas y Tinis: Umaran #36, Modern bar and restaurant,
intimate atmosphere, serving tapas, serves late (10%)
- Ten Ten Pie Restaurant: Corner of Cuadrante and Cuna
Allende, Small, clean and resonable prices, local restaurant, open seven days
a week, serving breakfast lunch and dinner, serves late (10%) (20% off spirits)
- Tio Lucas: Mesones #103, 1524996, Hallmark San Miguel
steakhouse, plus. Open seven days, serves late, nightly entertainment. (10%)
- Villa Rivera Hotel Restaurant, Cuadrante #1, 152-2289.
Behind the Parroquia. Inside and outside dining. International menu, wonderful
ambience, Breakfast, lunch and dinner. (20%)
- Villa Mirasol; Inside Villa Mirasol Hotel, open for
breakfast and lunch in garden setting. (10%)
New restaurants are added frequently, and occasionally
restaurants drop out of the program with 60 days notice. Ask for the bi-monthly
restaurant club newsletter at authorized outlets for detailed information on
restaurants and the current list of participants. All participating restaurants
are under contract with the San Miguel Restaurant Club to provide the same fine
service as they would to patrons who walk in off the street. Discounts are waived
during happy hours, 2X1 specials or other special events in which the restaurant
is offering discounts to the public at large.
Notice: Certain
Restaurants and Businesses may have restrictions that do not appear on this website.
Please contact The Restaurant Club directly for a complete list of participating
businesses and restrictions. | I thought I would write a follow-up to my column, “Move Over San Miguel
de Allende Here I Come”, since this is the only thing, writing, that prevents
from committing murderous acts of rage (Just Joking!) As you recall from the
previous column, I wrote how I tried to deposit a royalty check from my publisher
and was told the check would clear on four different dates. We were shown, last
week, on their computer screen that the funds would be available on the 18th
of December.
Well, today is the 18th. We marched down to the bank and, of course, in the
truest sense of TMO (Typical Mexican Operation) the funds were not available.
We went into the bank so I could seize a bank officer and choke him (just kidding!).
No, we talked to this guy who thought it cute to mumble at us. He actually told
us something entirely new.
He said that “the 18th” did not really mean “the 18th” but
it meant sometime after 6 p.m. on the 18th but before mid-night on the 18th and…and…maybe
even the 19th.
CAN YOU BELIEVE THIS?
This my dear readers is what we anal-retentive Americans (and “strung-tighter-than-piano
wire Germans”) have to deal with when we become expatriates living in Mexico.
It would seem, and I could be wrong, that Mexican banks just make up stuff as
they go along. There are no policy manuals, procedural steps, no rules, just
the “fly-by-the-seat-of-your-pants” way of doing things.
“Qué Será, Será: What ever will be, will be. The
future’s not ours to see. Qué Será, Será.”
This is exactly how things are done in central México. I have to tell
you though, those from other regions of the country are as dumbfounded as I am.
They tell me that this region of Mexico is “stuck in time and history.” They
are provincial to the point of having been throw into a time loop and cannot
escape the temporal hole they’ve been in since the middle ages. Time forgot
central Mexico and no one seems to really care to crawl out of this dimensional
morass in which they are quagmired.
What are we going to do?
I do not know. But, we are looking to other areas of Mexico that may not be
like living in a Latino Twilight Zone.
My fellow American expat said this:
“That what Mexico needs is a Business Manager. These people need a Business
Manager in everything that has to do with anything to show them how things work.
This is because in all aspects of life, at least in Guanajuato, no one who does
anything that has to do with something knows just how it is suppose to work.”
She has no idea what truth she spoke!
by Douglas Bower
Article Source: EzineArticles.com | San Miguel de Allende
(Historical perspective taken from a 1998 AAA guidebook--interesting to see what is the same and what has changed in 2007)
The city is located about 170km south of San Luis Potosi. Driving time is about 2 hours. The city has an elevation of 6,134 feet.
San Miguel de Allende traces its history to the immediate aftermath of the Spanish conquest. As mines began to exploit the rich gold and silver deposits of Mexico's central highland region, mule trains were formed to carry the bounty back to Mexico City. These caravans, however, passed through territory occupied by the Chichimeca Indians, and many a skirmish erupted. The village of San Miguel was founded in 1542 by the Franciscian monk Juan de San Miguel, who established a mission to evangalize the Indians and also to teach European weaving and agricultural techniques.
The settlement prospered, becoming the local market center for surrounding haciendas trading in cattle and textiles. It also went through several name changes, including San Miguel de los Chichimecas and San Miguel el Grande. It was here that the native son Ignacio Allende, along with Father Miquel Hidalgo from the neighboring town of Dolores Hidalgo, planned the initial uprising that led to the 11-year War of Independence. "Allende" was added to the town's name in 1826 to honor the freedom fighter.
San Miguel entered a period of decline following the war. Its opulent churches and mansions fell into decay, and poverty set in as mining operations subsided. But in 1926 -- a century after it became offically at city -- the Maxican government declared San Miguel a national historic monument. Modern contruction was prohibited in the city center to preserve the atmosphere, and the old buildings were restored. Foreigners began moving in during the 1930s, and today there is a well-established permanent community of North American expatriates, augmented by teachers, artists and writers who call San Miguel home for up to 6 months each year.
Away from the carefully preserved downtown section there's an everyday scruffiness, with the drab adobe huts lining dusty streets. San Miguel also has experienced growing pains due to an increased number of tourists. While agricultural exports, particulary vegetables, bring in revenue, the growth in population and industry has put a strain in the available water supply.
Visitors gravitate downtown, where coats of arms are carved over the doorways of houses that formerly belonged to Spanish aristocrats; they prospered from the Zacatecas-Guanajuato-Mexico City silver route that once ran through San Miguel. Inner patios shelter fountains, trees and flowers. Some of these handsome buildings now house commercial banks.
Make your first stop the main plaza, located between calles San Francisca and Correo and commonly referred to as El Jardin. Shaded by Indian laurel trees, it's a great place to relax on a wrought-iron bench, listen to the tolling bells of La Parroquia, the parish church, and observe the local scene. Artists working on their canvases are a common sight in the vicinity of the plaza, and most of the city's attractions are within walking distance. Note: Wear comfortable shoes; the city streets are narrow, steep and cobblestoned.
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