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San Miguel de Allende -- Today is Sunday, August 01, 2010 01:52 at our loyal server in the USA The following excerpt is by the legendary Stirling Dickinson, who is probably the most important Gringo to ever make an impact on the development of San Miguel de Allende. From Brandeburgh Press, November 1969.
In 1542, the missionary Fray Juan de San Miguel established a tiny settlement known as San Miguel Viejo. It was a frontier outpost constantly threatened by hostile Indians. Spanish soldiers and families of Spanish settlers came and the new hamlet was moved to the slope of Moctezuma Hill where fresh springs provided water. Soon, a royal charter was created for the town known as San Miguel El Grande. For more than two and one half centuries, San Miguel thrived under the repressive but orderly rule of Spain, as it was a link on the silver route to Mexico City. In 1810 revolution flared, led by Captain Ignacio Allende of San Miguel and Father Miguel Hidalgo of the nearby town of Dolores. For eleven years the revolution was fought. Finally, after a Mexican victory over the Spanish, the town was renamed San Miguel de Allende, honoring Don Ignacio Allende, its greatest son and martyr to freedom.
Travel writers have often called San Miguel "the prettiest town in Mexico". That remark has become a cliche. Yet, like all cliches, it has basis in fact. San Miguel is the most charming of all Mexican towns. Today, its chief fame is as an art center and home to hundreds of foreign residents, not artistic themselves, but attracted by the atmosphere the arts create. Most of these residents are fiercely partisan about their community, quickly pointing out that although many tourists visit, its real life goes on quietly but busily behind the unrevealing walls of its homes and gardens. A stranger who harps on the defects of living here is likely to be met with a cold stare and a classic retort. "Of course, San Miguel is not perfect -- it is merely heaven."
| To some San Miguel de Allende means history and tradition, to others art or language, to many, just a place to call home. But, to all, there are a some things that make it unique and memorable, here are a few personal favorites…
THINGS TO SEE
San Miguel de Allende was, by 1790, one of the richest villages in Mexico, with a population over twice that of New York City at the time. The wealth came from the silver trade, and those that had made their fortunes took it upon themselves to build elaborate mansions, churches and theaters. This past grandeur is still evident, with outstanding examples of most styles of colonial Mexican architecture to be found.
Of note are the Templo de San Francisco, Templo de la Concepción (known locally as ‘Las Monjas’), the Oratorio de San Felipe Neri with its interior Santa Casa de Loreto, the Centro Cultural Ignacio Ramirez "El Nigromante” (a.k.a. Bellas Artes) and, without doubt, the Parroquia.
La Parroquia de San Miguel Arcángel:
The original Parish Church, built in the late 17th century, was of relatively modest design. This changed dramatically in 1880 when the master stone mason, Zeferino Gutierrez was commissioned to create a new facade. A self-taught architect, Gutierrez is reported to have taken the inspiration for his design from drawings and postcards of European cathedrals. The resulting neogothic fantasy, whose soaring turrets can be viewed from almost any spot in town, has made the Parroquia one of the most photographed churches in Mexico. El Jardín:
Centered between the Parroquia to the south, colonnades of colonial arches to the east and west and the Presidencia, or historic city hall, to the north, this bustling park is the heart of the city. It draws visitors to sit and gossip on the wrought iron benches shaded by boxy laurel trees, to pause and listen to musicians playing from its central gazebo or to line the stone walls and cheer as one of the town’s many parades passes by.
Biblioteca Pública:
The English Public library is Mexico's second largest English language library. The rambling building contdecorated reading room, a restful inner courtyard with wireless internet service, a theater offering foreign film and live performances, a computer center and café. It is an not only an important part in the lives of many of San Miguel’s expatriate population but, due to its mandate of enriching the lives of local students, it is also an integral part of the community.
El Charco de Ingenio:
This privately funded botanical garden and ecological reserve, located on the outskirts of town, is dedicated to restoring and preserving Mexican flora and encouraging endangered wildlife to flourish. The extensive grounds house a conservatory of Mexican plants, with particular emphasis on cacti and succulents; a center where one can purchase plants; remains of an ancient wool mill and an historic reservoir that is home to native and migratory birds. All is linked by a network of paths, with wonderful views of the town and countryside, that are ideal for biking and walking, and allow access for rock climbing on the steep canyon walls. An adjacent Nature Park provides grounds for picnicking and horseback riding.
Tianguis:
Imagine what would result if you crossed a flea market, a farmer’s market, a 19th century food court and the closeout bin at a discount clothier? If you can’t, you should visit the Tuesday open-air market held by Plaza Real del Conde. Under the shade of multicolored tarps are hundreds of vendors hawking fresh fruit and vegetables, dried herbs, kitchenware, hardware, beauty supplies, clothing (new, used, or remaindered from American retailers), watches, CD’s (some of which might be legal) and everything else in between. Even if you only go for the sights you will no doubt end up buying something.
Reprint Permission from "Su Casa"--Your Home in San Miguel de Allende
© 2006 Imprint Publishing/Advertising
Telephone in San Miguel:152-0493 | | From the Vip Club Newsletter for San Miguel de Allende with information on discounts available for club members who have purchased the VIP Club Discount Card
November 30, 2006
Greetings:
VIP Club participating bar, EL PETITE, Hernandez Macias #95, reopens
with an inauguration gala, tonight, November 30, with a special reception and
live music from 6-8pm. The attached Market Bistro Restaurant will reopen sometime
in December. Good luck Daniel.
BTW: Right next door in Romanos, they have a dinner show in
the back patio every Thursday night, with Parker and Young playing from 8-10pm.
Also, on Wednesdays, Frederico plays Latin folk from 8-10pm.
Also, entertainment wise, VIP participating restaurant
La Frugua wants member to know about their weekly line up of entertainment:
- Tuesdays;
8pm, Tango Nights, with "Rio Negro,"
- Wednesdays; 8pm, Blues with "Robert
Kaplan and & Joe,"
- Thursdays; 9:30pm, Pop, Salsa, Cumbia etc, with "Rossalba,"
- Fridays & Saturdays;
10:30pm, "Maria,"
- Saturdays; 3pm, Mexican Trio Music, with "Los
Padrinos,"
- Sundays; 8pm, Bohemia with "Pepe Cordoba."
Card Member Keith Thompson is no longer at Finnegans
but has opened the Long Horn Texas BBQ, behind
La Palapa. Because of the price structure, the card does not apply but consider
giving Keith's new place a try.
Card Member, Donna Drinnon, of the Drinnon Art Gallery,
Sto. Domingo 42B, is having a mixed media show on Saturday & Sunday, December
2-3, from 12-5pm, featuring wall art of women and children
Card Member Beatriz Orvananos is moving her VIP Club participating
Ritmos Latinos dance lesson studio from Zacateros to La Carpa. Classes will resume
January 8, 2007. Contact La Carpa for the new schedule.
Club members Mort and Norma Erlick are having a garage
sale, at their home, Cuesta de San Jose #29,
on Saturday, December 16, 9am-1pm. They will be selling off Mexican antiques-Santos',
Textiles, Folk Art, Oriental Rugs and many one of a kind items. Club members
can come a week early if they call first at 152-8180.
It was brought to our attention that a notice was posted on
the "not-so-cool" list, a good idea gone bad where there is mostly
whining, griping and back biting, and someone was braying the propane gas company
does not show when called. I had a casual conversation with Jesus from Noel Gas
and asked him if there was a problem. Do know, especially if it a large tank
delivery, that if the trucks can't find a parking spot they cannot deliver. They
do try coming back often during the course of the day but if they can't park
they can't deliver.
We would like to remind members that the VIP card does not
apply to cover charges for entertainment. We post this information in our brochures
and on our webpage but some members overlook the rule and occasionally they give
door men a hard times. Stop it! The Club rules are but few but each member should
know them. Restaurant wise the card is valid for food and drink off the menu;
tobacco products, t-shirts etc. are never included as part of the discount.
A member called our office and all the girls could make
out is them saying they lost their card. They could not understand who they were
because they were sneezing and coughing the whole time. But do know, if you misplaced
or lost your card, contact us here for immediate replacement, no questions asked.
BTW: with flu season upon us, know that VIP Club Members get
a 20% discount at Chelos Faracia , off of pharmaceuticals and 15% off their retail
products.
Many members have written in for updates about member
Arden O'Rourke who was in a bad accident up near the border. Seems our prayers
and good wishes were answered. She is out of trouble, has come out of the coma,
and has been taken off the respirator at a hospital in San
Antonio, Texas. She has a long way to go to be her old self but she is
doing better everyday. Arden and her family thank you all for your concern and
prayers.
The holidays are coming: Be nice to one another.
Thank you for your continuous and loyal support.
Your San Miguel VIP Club | from MexicoDiscovered.com which also has a Discover Mexico magazine.
San Miguel de Allende and Pozos
Mexico's most cultured retirement haven - and most popular artistic destination, was declared a Mexican national Monument in 1926. This meant that while other towns pulled down heritage buildings and replaced them with glass and steel boxes San Miguel was off-limits to that form of modernization. Without this single gesture, San Miguel may have become just another slightly decaying backwater - that time and the major highways left behind - instead of the architecturally pristine city we love.
But what a National Monument! Its proximity to the nearby silver cities of the Bajio meant that by the eighteenth century it was an important way station en route to Mexico City and an agriculture centre supplying the needs of the burgeoning city of Guanajuato. Spaniards, wealthy from extracting silver, built magnificent palaces here and then enhanced their already enormous fortunes farming the surrounding countryside through huge estates with equally magnificent haciendas as their centrepiece. Further enhancing the architectural splendour are ornate churches and oratorios that owe their existence to the patronage of these wealthy patrons - and the sweat and slave-like servitude of indigenous Indians. Despite the fact that many of the palaces and haciendas were gutted and plundered during the Mexican Revolution in the second decade of the last century, the basic structures were still extant in 1926.
It was this slightly scarred and somewhat neglected eighteenth century architectural masterpiece that so enamoured the few foreigners who ventured through here in the late 1920's and early 1930's. Set in the pastoral rolling hills of the Bajio, watered by natural springs, enjoying a spring like climate all year and suffused with a light beloved by artists, how could they resist. One such person was American, Sterling Dickinson who, recognized the possibilities, and founded the now internationally renowned Instituto Allende in 1938 as a place of study for fellow ex patriots. This was the second pivotal action that ensured San Miguel de Allende's future for, with the end of World War II came the United States GI Bill that supplied education grants to returning servicemen. These GIs soon discovered their limited funds went farther in San Miguel and the Institute thrived. A vibrant artistic and cultural society grew up around a still small but permanent expatriate community that serviced their needs. Many of these visiting students never left, instead they became the kernel of a growing artistic community that, generations later, continues to be supplemented by new infusions of artistic talent that also fall in love with San Miguel's special "light". At the same time, many of the wealthy tourists originally attracted by the town's reputation, returned to reside here on a permanent or semi-permanent basis. Attracted by this charming and safe city with a perfect climate they, in turn, became the basis of the well-heeled semi retirement community that San Miguel is today. At the same time other less wealthy (or merely more ambitious) visitors saw the opportunities afforded by this influx and opened even more businesses to serve this expanding tourist and residential market. These North Americans had the desire and the funds to restore the many badly neglected buildings - in accordance with the strict 1926 guidelines - that, today, the town is effectively an eighteenth century wonder with electricity and running water!
Well, not quite. The ubiquitous internal combustion engine knows no limits and San Miguel is no exception. Her narrow, winding and often very steep cobblestone streets can soon get jammed with noisy diesel spewing trucks and buses as well as the latest gas guzzling SUVs. Ironically perhaps it is the modern SUV that is the most appropriate vehicle to ply the uneven 200 year old cobblestone streets. Certainly, its 4 wheel drive capability comes in handy when the summer rains hit and the more steeply sloped streets become slick and traction becomes your number one priority. If it isn't, you will soon get used to walking that little bit extra just to avoid the problem of finding that most rare of things in downtown San Miguel - a parking spot.
The relationship between the expatriate and Mexican communities is remarkably cordial. One even gets the impression there is only one community. This is born of the fact that the two live side-by-side and both benefit from the other despite the fact that (with the notable exception of a comparatively small number of middle and upper class Mexicans) most expatriates are wealthier than their neighbours. Poverty and crime do exist in the peripheral Mexican areas of town but a strong tradition of volunteer work within the expatriate community has ameliorated many of the resentments such an "invading army" of privileged foreigners could have engendered. Certainly, San Miguel attracts relatively wealthy people, but they don't flaunt it. That is not what San Miguel is about. Any such wealth is generally hidden behind the enclosed walls and high gates of the town - for this is a town that values and encourages cultural and social endeavours above overt displays of wealth.
Members of the expatriate community who operate businesses here is one reason the town works so well. They have created jobs and so generated a higher standard of living and quality of life for all San Miguel residents. I was fortunate to meet a number of them - mainly in the real estate and hospitality fields - and was struck by the fact that many of them put as much time and energy into their social and charitable concerns as they did into their commercial pursuits. Dotty Vidargas of Vidargas Real Estate, for example, has lived in San Miguel for 40 years and is one of the driving forces restoring the nearby Santuario at Atotonilco. In contrast, Lane Simmons at Remax Colonial Real Estate became so involved with helping the town's poorer families and abused children that he and his wife have legally adopted two of the children he "rescued". Interestingly, most of San Miguel's realty companies are long established concerns. They know the San Miguel housing market inside out. As part of San Miguel society for decades they are able to impart to potential purchasers that they are buying into a community not just a home.
But whether they are house-hunting or just passing through, visitors need somewhere to stay. On the face of it that should not be a problem in San Miguel where the number of hotels, inns and B & Bs must exceed that of any town of comparable size in Mexico. Most, however, are small - with as few as 3 rooms - so don't be too confident you'll find a room without booking ahead! Old favourites in the deluxe class, such as the Casa de Sierra Nevada and la Puertecita must now compete with the intimate luxury of small exclusive enclaves such as Casa Quetzal among many where American amenities meet the best of Mexican design and influence, while less expensive old time landmark hotels such as the Mansion del Bosque remain perennial favourites.
Some San Miguelites have "discovered" a new San Miguel at Mineral de Pozos just 45 minutes from San Miguel. Popularly called Pozos it is a protected old silver mining town where many of its old mansions are being lovingly restored. In the main square are two hotels adjoining one another. The Casa Montana is the more recent addition but, even newer is the recently opened Real de Minas B&B. Both are American owned and are just two of the gringo vanguard already settled with established businesses here. Many more will come! | San Miguel de Allende
(Historical perspective taken from a 1998 AAA guidebook--interesting to see what is the same and what has changed in 2007)
The city is located about 170km south of San Luis Potosi. Driving time is about 2 hours. The city has an elevation of 6,134 feet.
San Miguel de Allende traces its history to the immediate aftermath of the Spanish conquest. As mines began to exploit the rich gold and silver deposits of Mexico's central highland region, mule trains were formed to carry the bounty back to Mexico City. These caravans, however, passed through territory occupied by the Chichimeca Indians, and many a skirmish erupted. The village of San Miguel was founded in 1542 by the Franciscian monk Juan de San Miguel, who established a mission to evangalize the Indians and also to teach European weaving and agricultural techniques.
The settlement prospered, becoming the local market center for surrounding haciendas trading in cattle and textiles. It also went through several name changes, including San Miguel de los Chichimecas and San Miguel el Grande. It was here that the native son Ignacio Allende, along with Father Miquel Hidalgo from the neighboring town of Dolores Hidalgo, planned the initial uprising that led to the 11-year War of Independence. "Allende" was added to the town's name in 1826 to honor the freedom fighter.
San Miguel entered a period of decline following the war. Its opulent churches and mansions fell into decay, and poverty set in as mining operations subsided. But in 1926 -- a century after it became offically at city -- the Maxican government declared San Miguel a national historic monument. Modern contruction was prohibited in the city center to preserve the atmosphere, and the old buildings were restored. Foreigners began moving in during the 1930s, and today there is a well-established permanent community of North American expatriates, augmented by teachers, artists and writers who call San Miguel home for up to 6 months each year.
Away from the carefully preserved downtown section there's an everyday scruffiness, with the drab adobe huts lining dusty streets. San Miguel also has experienced growing pains due to an increased number of tourists. While agricultural exports, particulary vegetables, bring in revenue, the growth in population and industry has put a strain in the available water supply.
Visitors gravitate downtown, where coats of arms are carved over the doorways of houses that formerly belonged to Spanish aristocrats; they prospered from the Zacatecas-Guanajuato-Mexico City silver route that once ran through San Miguel. Inner patios shelter fountains, trees and flowers. Some of these handsome buildings now house commercial banks.
Make your first stop the main plaza, located between calles San Francisca and Correo and commonly referred to as El Jardin. Shaded by Indian laurel trees, it's a great place to relax on a wrought-iron bench, listen to the tolling bells of La Parroquia, the parish church, and observe the local scene. Artists working on their canvases are a common sight in the vicinity of the plaza, and most of the city's attractions are within walking distance. Note: Wear comfortable shoes; the city streets are narrow, steep and cobblestoned.
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