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San Miguel de Allende -- Today is Tuesday, January 06, 2009 11:43 at our loyal server in the USAThere are a thousand and one descriptions of San Miguel de Allende written over the past decades. Here's one writer's short take:
San Miguel's reputation as an arts center was established by the founding of the Allende Institute. One of its American founders, Stirling Dickson, came to Mexico as a tourist in the 1930s and fell in love with the city. A painter and engraver, he helped inaugurate the institute in 1950 and was its director until 1987. The lovely building housing the school once was owned by the wealthy Canal familiy. Fountains, arcades and courtyards gardens grace the grounds of the campus, which has extensive classroom space, two are galleries, a theter and a library.
Students from throughout the Americas take advantage of the art and language classes offered, and the institute also functions as a campus abroad for several American and Canadian art schools. The Centro Cultural Bellas Artes, is also known as the Centro Cultural el Nigromante (its official name) and the Centro Cultural Ignacio Ramirez. It is a branch of the wellknown Instituto de Bellas Artes in Mexico City. The impressive building, which dates from the mid-18th century, was once the Convento de la Concepcion and features an immense, tree-shaded courtyard. It offers music, dance and visual arts classes; a bulletin board lists lectures and concerts given both here and elsewhere in the city. Several murals are also exhibited, including one by David Alfaro Siqueirs.
San Miquel is known for the variety and quality of its regionally produced handycrafts. Metalwork -- masks, trays, lanterns, picture frames and decorative objects made of tin, copper, brass, bronze and wrought iron -- and the design of local silversmiths are particularly worth seeking out. Also available are pottery, weaving, sculpture, straw items, hand-loomed cambaya cloth (a material frequently used to make skirts), and folk and traditional art.
The colonial furniture is some of the finest produced in Mexico. Open-air Mercado Ignacio Ramirez, the city market, fills the plaza in front of the Oratorio de San Felipe Neri, and spreads onto the surrounding streets. Livestock and fresh preduce share space with inexpensive everyday items and souvenirs at the cheaper end of the price scale. The Mercado de Artesanias consists of vendor stalls in an alley. Pricier boutiques are scatted throughout the downtown area. Art galleries are concentrated around the main plaza, and exhibit openings are big social events. Two that showcase both regional and national talents are Galeria San Miguel and Galeria Atena. | Mexican Coke: The 'Real Thing?'
By TOM RAGAN
Sentinel staff writer
WATSONVILLE
It's popping up just about everywhere in Latino communities across the United States: Mexican-made Coca-Cola in those old glass bottles, somewhat of an anomaly in the age of the plastic liter and twist-off cap.
Slightly worn and a bit gritty from all the coming and going, the 12-ounce bottles, which sell for roughly $1.25 a pop, are being bought up and sucked dry at record clips in cities across the country with large Latino populations.
And Mexicans and Mexican-Americans aren't the only ones swigging down the soda bottled south of the border, claiming it tastes different from its American-made counterpart, that its fizz seems to last longer because it's in a glass bottle.
If running diaries on the Web in the form of blogs are any indication, just about everybody who likes the heft of a good old-fashioned soda bottle is looking for the Mexican-made pop in the thousands of ma and pa convenience stores that cater to Latinos.
"Mexican Coke is selling like crazy bro, and I can't keep up," says Rudy Mendoza of El Gordo Taqueria on Main Street. Last week the 20-something Mendoza, Salinas born and bred, was cursing the underground distributor under his breath as the slightly green tinted bottles, with the words "Hecho en Mexico," started to disappear from his refrigerator.
In somewhat of a conundrum, the Atlanta-based Coca-Cola Co. has condemned the recent imports across the country as a form of "bootlegging."
But at the same time the company has recognized that it would be remiss if it overlooked the Mexican pop craze, which is why it is now buying Coca-Cola in bottles from Mexico and importing them to Texas and Southern California, two of the largest Mexican markets in the country, according to Mart Martin, a spokesman for Coca-Cola's North American division in Atlanta.
"We believe that the appeal of Mexican Coke is as much about nostalgia as it is about anything," says Martin. "It's like getting a piece of home in a bottle. You can't deny the fact that it's in a tall glass bottle, something you just can't find in most parts of the United States."
But it's the "same exact product," and Mexican bottlers are buying the ingredients straight from the company, says Martin.
"It's not like they're stirring it up in some backyard," he adds. "Coke is Coke is Coke."
The company, however, rarely elaborates on Coke's ingredients, and the secret formula is actually in a vault in a bank in Atlanta. Instead, the company line all along has been that there is "no perceptible taste difference" between Mexican Coke and the American-made Classic Coke.
As Martin says, "You have to consider the circumstances: the packaging, whether there's ice over it, the temperature, or whether it's in a can or a bottle. But what often happens is people think it tastes different because it comes in a bottle, and that's what we're trying to get our arms around. The 'why?' It could just be psychological."
Yet there is one kicker, and it's a fairly large one: Mexican Coke may contain the same secret syrup, but its sweetener is entirely different.
It's made from sugar cane, not corn syrup.
'The Real Thing'
Latinos are the fastest-growing population segment in the United States, and Mexico accounts for well over half of the roughly 33 million Latinos who live in the country, according to the 2000 census.
Certainly, this is not the first time the Mexican market has flexed its muscle, with an occasional borrowing from U.S. popular culture.
Look closely at the Mexican man wearing that Texas Longhorns cap or the World Series-winning Chicago White Sox hat. There's a chance it came from a market just off the plaza in Any Town, Mexico.
But then there's the real Mexican deal, like tequila, which has anchored many a margarita happy hour; or tacos, as popular as hamburgers, without which there'd be no Taco Bell.
Mexico's a country that's put the popularity of chips and salsa right up there with ketchup and french fries.
And in yet another nod to the lucrative Latino market, Frito-Lay just came out with a "fiery habañero" flavor of Doritos that all but requires a bottle of water during consumption.
It's no secret that the meteoric rise in the Mexican population in the past few decades in the United States has given rise to all products Mexican, which has made its way into the mainstream of the American psyche — from canned jalapeños to cheaper laundry soaps to the corn tortilla.
But taking a brand name like Coca-Cola and undercutting the American-made Coca-Cola distributors on their own turf hasn't gone over well with the largest soft drink supplier in the world, according to Martin.
Although the bottlers in Mexico are authorized and are making the cola above board, it's the non-Coca-Cola distributors — the guys who are wheeling and dealing it in an underground market — that are causing all the problems.
Lawsuits have been filed, but no dispositions as of yet.
"They're trespassing on the territory rights of many U.S. bottlers," said Coke spokesman Martin. "Bringing it into the country is not illegal. But what it does do from the Coca-Cola standpoint is it violates contractual rights that we have with our bottlers. And it has potential trademark right infringements as well."
The controversy has even bubbled to the surface in several blogs.
Ordinary Joes are mixing their thoughts and opinions with the best of the high-browed corporate types who've made careers out of analyzing products that sell and those that don't.
Grant McCracken, a noted anthropologist with a doctorate from the University of Chicago, wrote: "Some consumers now insist that Mexican Coke is a more robust brand than American Coke, not least because it is charged with meanings that American Coke never had, or long ago gave up. In particular, Mexican Coke is charged with a powerful nostalgia, a remembrance of childhood south of the border."
Karina Alejandre, 22, a recently arrived immigrant from Mexico who now cooks at El Gordo Taqueria in Watsonville, remembers her first sip of Coca-Cola.
And guess what?
It didn't even come from a bottle.
"We'd drink from plastic sandwich bags with straws inside," she said in Spanish, an imaginary straw in her hand. "We couldn't leave the store with the bottles."
Since Coca-Cola was founded in the late 1880s as a syrup mixed with carbonated water, it's gone from the soda fountain to the bottle to the aluminum can to the plastic liter.
And now it's back to the bottle, courtesy of Mexico, a country that's usually a few years behind the times, often fashionably retro because of it.
And in the backrooms of some Mexican tiendas in Watsonville, from El Gordo to D'La Colmena, cases upon cases of the Mexican Coke bottles sit, proof that there's a demand, which is causing a stir but saturating a Latino and non-Latino thirst across the country.
As McCracken notes, "The bigger challenge of the Coca-Cola Co. is to admit that even the magnificent corporation that has created and preserved the 'real thing' authenticity must now admit to the possibility that there are many authenticities. This is the lesson of plenitude. This is the lesson of the long tail."
Miguel Perez and Leticia Martinez, Watsonville residents, don't know anything about corporate lessons learned.
They just know what they like.
"When we run out," says Martinez, "I buy the smaller American-made bottles. They cost more, but they're worth it. I love drinking Coke from the bottle."
from www.santacruzsentinel.com | November 21, 2006
Greetings:
Your VIP Club welcomes ROMANOS RESTAURANT BAR into the club.
Romanos, Hernandez Macias #93, 152-7454. Romanos has become a San Miguel landmark
restaurant. Now under new ownership, Dave and Patrice Brucia offer the same hearty
menu with good-sized portions as beforehand while adding some new entries. Romanos
is open for dinner Tuesday through Saturday. VIP Club members may take 10% off
their bill. Romanos does not take credit cards.
VIP Club member Beatriz provides Tango lessons at her studio,
located at Zacateros 21. She offers members a 10% discount when paying for a
month's worth of lessons.
VIP Club member Ross MacDonald wants members to know that
beginning November 24 the San Miguel Fitness Center and MacDonalds Casa de La
Salud are having their first annual membership drive with many discounts and
price reductions for the gym, vitamins, chocolates etc. Ross also will soon have
a new website under San Miguel Fitness that will provide discount coupons, a
medical referral service and other valuable and diverse services to sanmiguelenses.
Do know that the San Miguel Fitness Centers offers 20% off to VIP Club members.
VIP Club participating boutique and fashion center, "Goldies" has
moved off Canal and is now located at Zacateros #19, in the old Clan Destino
location. Hours are daily: 10:00-am-6pm, 154-7521.
Maru Riba, owner of VIP Club participating restaurant
La Princesa, on Recreo, would like members to know La Pricesa has a new chef,
Angel Flores, who comes with sterling credentials earned at Camino Real Hotel
in Mexico City and while in Cancun. La Princesa
now offers a new and diverse menu with many various specialties.
Silvia, of L'invito fame, has opened another local pizzeria
with wood burning oven located on the corner of Calzada de la Luz and Calzada
de la Aurora. Her other location is Ancha de San Antonio,
32B. Both are open everyday providing home delivery. Call 154-6228 or
154-1000.
Members do know, if you are in business or an artist,
who might be having an event or even a garage sale, Your Club will be more than
glad to post your event in our newsflashes. Yet do know, if your event is time
sensitive, we can not guarantee we can send your notice out right away because
we only send out newsflashes that are germane to new club business, so get your
notice to us early. Do know that the VIP Club website is being viewed more and
more by our robust membership <www.vipsanmiguel.com>.
Your Club's site's advertising rates are very reasonable.
Brrrrrr . . . everybody is talking about the weather.
All will use more propane. Remember Your Club's discount from Noel Gas. So far
the reports are good with many members saving big time on their propane bill.
One member, who has three properties, says they paid or their VIP membership
just with the savings. Also, with the weather getting colder, the poor out in
the campo lack warm clothing. Both Biblioteca Publica and our local post of the
American Legion have drives to collect coats and sweaters to give to the less
fortunate. Why not look in your closet and permit your older garb to warm the
needy.
Your Club wants to wish our American membership a Happy Thanksgiving.
It goes without saying how much we all have to be thankful for here in San Miguel.
A belated Happy Thanksgiving to our Canadian members.
Thank you for the good turn out and VIP Club members
who attended my reading at the Authors Sala on November 10, and special thanks
to Susan Page and the steering committee who were thoughtful enough to invite
me to read excerpts from my work, it warmed my heart.
Please include, member Arden O'Rourke, in your
prayers and good thoughts. Arden, a fine lady, was involved in a horrific auto
crash with an 18 wheeler up at the border. Presently she is in a coma in San
Antonio, Texas, and she's in trouble. A silver lining might be that, as of today,
it has been reported she has moved her arms and legs and periodically
has opened her eyes before slipping back in unconsciousness. Get back with us,
Arden!
Members and friends, please don't sleep with open flame
heaters operating in bedrooms or you just might not wake up!!!
RIP: Elfie Guillen.
Thank you for your continuous and loyal support.
Your San Miguel VIP Club
| San Miguel de Allende
(Historical perspective taken from a 1998 AAA guidebook--interesting to see what is the same and what has changed in 2007)
The city is located about 170km south of San Luis Potosi. Driving time is about 2 hours. The city has an elevation of 6,134 feet.
San Miguel de Allende traces its history to the immediate aftermath of the Spanish conquest. As mines began to exploit the rich gold and silver deposits of Mexico's central highland region, mule trains were formed to carry the bounty back to Mexico City. These caravans, however, passed through territory occupied by the Chichimeca Indians, and many a skirmish erupted. The village of San Miguel was founded in 1542 by the Franciscian monk Juan de San Miguel, who established a mission to evangalize the Indians and also to teach European weaving and agricultural techniques.
The settlement prospered, becoming the local market center for surrounding haciendas trading in cattle and textiles. It also went through several name changes, including San Miguel de los Chichimecas and San Miguel el Grande. It was here that the native son Ignacio Allende, along with Father Miquel Hidalgo from the neighboring town of Dolores Hidalgo, planned the initial uprising that led to the 11-year War of Independence. "Allende" was added to the town's name in 1826 to honor the freedom fighter.
San Miguel entered a period of decline following the war. Its opulent churches and mansions fell into decay, and poverty set in as mining operations subsided. But in 1926 -- a century after it became offically at city -- the Maxican government declared San Miguel a national historic monument. Modern contruction was prohibited in the city center to preserve the atmosphere, and the old buildings were restored. Foreigners began moving in during the 1930s, and today there is a well-established permanent community of North American expatriates, augmented by teachers, artists and writers who call San Miguel home for up to 6 months each year.
Away from the carefully preserved downtown section there's an everyday scruffiness, with the drab adobe huts lining dusty streets. San Miguel also has experienced growing pains due to an increased number of tourists. While agricultural exports, particulary vegetables, bring in revenue, the growth in population and industry has put a strain in the available water supply.
Visitors gravitate downtown, where coats of arms are carved over the doorways of houses that formerly belonged to Spanish aristocrats; they prospered from the Zacatecas-Guanajuato-Mexico City silver route that once ran through San Miguel. Inner patios shelter fountains, trees and flowers. Some of these handsome buildings now house commercial banks.
Make your first stop the main plaza, located between calles San Francisca and Correo and commonly referred to as El Jardin. Shaded by Indian laurel trees, it's a great place to relax on a wrought-iron bench, listen to the tolling bells of La Parroquia, the parish church, and observe the local scene. Artists working on their canvases are a common sight in the vicinity of the plaza, and most of the city's attractions are within walking distance. Note: Wear comfortable shoes; the city streets are narrow, steep and cobblestoned.
| I thought I would write a follow-up to my column, “Move Over San Miguel
de Allende Here I Come”, since this is the only thing, writing, that prevents
from committing murderous acts of rage (Just Joking!) As you recall from the
previous column, I wrote how I tried to deposit a royalty check from my publisher
and was told the check would clear on four different dates. We were shown, last
week, on their computer screen that the funds would be available on the 18th
of December.
Well, today is the 18th. We marched down to the bank and, of course, in the
truest sense of TMO (Typical Mexican Operation) the funds were not available.
We went into the bank so I could seize a bank officer and choke him (just kidding!).
No, we talked to this guy who thought it cute to mumble at us. He actually told
us something entirely new.
He said that “the 18th” did not really mean “the 18th” but
it meant sometime after 6 p.m. on the 18th but before mid-night on the 18th and…and…maybe
even the 19th.
CAN YOU BELIEVE THIS?
This my dear readers is what we anal-retentive Americans (and “strung-tighter-than-piano
wire Germans”) have to deal with when we become expatriates living in Mexico.
It would seem, and I could be wrong, that Mexican banks just make up stuff as
they go along. There are no policy manuals, procedural steps, no rules, just
the “fly-by-the-seat-of-your-pants” way of doing things.
“Qué Será, Será: What ever will be, will be. The
future’s not ours to see. Qué Será, Será.”
This is exactly how things are done in central México. I have to tell
you though, those from other regions of the country are as dumbfounded as I am.
They tell me that this region of Mexico is “stuck in time and history.” They
are provincial to the point of having been throw into a time loop and cannot
escape the temporal hole they’ve been in since the middle ages. Time forgot
central Mexico and no one seems to really care to crawl out of this dimensional
morass in which they are quagmired.
What are we going to do?
I do not know. But, we are looking to other areas of Mexico that may not be
like living in a Latino Twilight Zone.
My fellow American expat said this:
“That what Mexico needs is a Business Manager. These people need a Business
Manager in everything that has to do with anything to show them how things work.
This is because in all aspects of life, at least in Guanajuato, no one who does
anything that has to do with something knows just how it is suppose to work.”
She has no idea what truth she spoke!
by Douglas Bower
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