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San Miguel de Allende -- Today is Tuesday, March 16, 2010 03:36 at our loyal server in the USASan Miguel de Allende
(Historical perspective taken from a 1998 AAA guidebook--interesting to see what is the same and what has changed in 2007)
The city is located about 170km south of San Luis Potosi. Driving time is about 2 hours. The city has an elevation of 6,134 feet.
San Miguel de Allende traces its history to the immediate aftermath of the Spanish conquest. As mines began to exploit the rich gold and silver deposits of Mexico's central highland region, mule trains were formed to carry the bounty back to Mexico City. These caravans, however, passed through territory occupied by the Chichimeca Indians, and many a skirmish erupted. The village of San Miguel was founded in 1542 by the Franciscian monk Juan de San Miguel, who established a mission to evangalize the Indians and also to teach European weaving and agricultural techniques.
The settlement prospered, becoming the local market center for surrounding haciendas trading in cattle and textiles. It also went through several name changes, including San Miguel de los Chichimecas and San Miguel el Grande. It was here that the native son Ignacio Allende, along with Father Miquel Hidalgo from the neighboring town of Dolores Hidalgo, planned the initial uprising that led to the 11-year War of Independence. "Allende" was added to the town's name in 1826 to honor the freedom fighter.
San Miguel entered a period of decline following the war. Its opulent churches and mansions fell into decay, and poverty set in as mining operations subsided. But in 1926 -- a century after it became offically at city -- the Maxican government declared San Miguel a national historic monument. Modern contruction was prohibited in the city center to preserve the atmosphere, and the old buildings were restored. Foreigners began moving in during the 1930s, and today there is a well-established permanent community of North American expatriates, augmented by teachers, artists and writers who call San Miguel home for up to 6 months each year.
Away from the carefully preserved downtown section there's an everyday scruffiness, with the drab adobe huts lining dusty streets. San Miguel also has experienced growing pains due to an increased number of tourists. While agricultural exports, particulary vegetables, bring in revenue, the growth in population and industry has put a strain in the available water supply.
Visitors gravitate downtown, where coats of arms are carved over the doorways of houses that formerly belonged to Spanish aristocrats; they prospered from the Zacatecas-Guanajuato-Mexico City silver route that once ran through San Miguel. Inner patios shelter fountains, trees and flowers. Some of these handsome buildings now house commercial banks.
Make your first stop the main plaza, located between calles San Francisca and Correo and commonly referred to as El Jardin. Shaded by Indian laurel trees, it's a great place to relax on a wrought-iron bench, listen to the tolling bells of La Parroquia, the parish church, and observe the local scene. Artists working on their canvases are a common sight in the vicinity of the plaza, and most of the city's attractions are within walking distance. Note: Wear comfortable shoes; the city streets are narrow, steep and cobblestoned.
| To some San Miguel de Allende means history and tradition, to others art or language, to many, just a place to call home. But, to all, there are a some things that make it unique and memorable, here are a few personal favorites…
THINGS TO SEE
San Miguel de Allende was, by 1790, one of the richest villages in Mexico, with a population over twice that of New York City at the time. The wealth came from the silver trade, and those that had made their fortunes took it upon themselves to build elaborate mansions, churches and theaters. This past grandeur is still evident, with outstanding examples of most styles of colonial Mexican architecture to be found.
Of note are the Templo de San Francisco, Templo de la Concepción (known locally as ‘Las Monjas’), the Oratorio de San Felipe Neri with its interior Santa Casa de Loreto, the Centro Cultural Ignacio Ramirez "El Nigromante” (a.k.a. Bellas Artes) and, without doubt, the Parroquia.
La Parroquia de San Miguel Arcángel:
The original Parish Church, built in the late 17th century, was of relatively modest design. This changed dramatically in 1880 when the master stone mason, Zeferino Gutierrez was commissioned to create a new facade. A self-taught architect, Gutierrez is reported to have taken the inspiration for his design from drawings and postcards of European cathedrals. The resulting neogothic fantasy, whose soaring turrets can be viewed from almost any spot in town, has made the Parroquia one of the most photographed churches in Mexico. El Jardín:
Centered between the Parroquia to the south, colonnades of colonial arches to the east and west and the Presidencia, or historic city hall, to the north, this bustling park is the heart of the city. It draws visitors to sit and gossip on the wrought iron benches shaded by boxy laurel trees, to pause and listen to musicians playing from its central gazebo or to line the stone walls and cheer as one of the town’s many parades passes by.
Biblioteca Pública:
The English Public library is Mexico's second largest English language library. The rambling building contdecorated reading room, a restful inner courtyard with wireless internet service, a theater offering foreign film and live performances, a computer center and café. It is an not only an important part in the lives of many of San Miguel’s expatriate population but, due to its mandate of enriching the lives of local students, it is also an integral part of the community.
El Charco de Ingenio:
This privately funded botanical garden and ecological reserve, located on the outskirts of town, is dedicated to restoring and preserving Mexican flora and encouraging endangered wildlife to flourish. The extensive grounds house a conservatory of Mexican plants, with particular emphasis on cacti and succulents; a center where one can purchase plants; remains of an ancient wool mill and an historic reservoir that is home to native and migratory birds. All is linked by a network of paths, with wonderful views of the town and countryside, that are ideal for biking and walking, and allow access for rock climbing on the steep canyon walls. An adjacent Nature Park provides grounds for picnicking and horseback riding.
Tianguis:
Imagine what would result if you crossed a flea market, a farmer’s market, a 19th century food court and the closeout bin at a discount clothier? If you can’t, you should visit the Tuesday open-air market held by Plaza Real del Conde. Under the shade of multicolored tarps are hundreds of vendors hawking fresh fruit and vegetables, dried herbs, kitchenware, hardware, beauty supplies, clothing (new, used, or remaindered from American retailers), watches, CD’s (some of which might be legal) and everything else in between. Even if you only go for the sights you will no doubt end up buying something.
Reprint Permission from "Su Casa"--Your Home in San Miguel de Allende
© 2006 Imprint Publishing/Advertising
Telephone in San Miguel:152-0493 | Another interesting perspective from Mexonline
Located 60 kilometers north of Queretaro, the colonial gem of San Miguel de Allende, population 80,000, is situated on a hillside facing the Laja River and the distant Guanajuato Mountains. Declared a national monument in 1926, San Miguel is a picturesque city of arched colonial mansions, flower-filled patios, and winding, terraced cobblestone streets. It is particularly beautiful in March, when flowering jacaranda trees are in bloom. Roof top views and gardens of this colonial city It is Mexico's most celebrated artists' community, and has been luring artistically-inclined Mexicans and foreigners (about 3,500 Americans and Canadians) for decades.
Instituto Allende, founded in 1951, is an intellectual center and arts academy of renown. There are also many other institutes focusing on arts, literature, and language. Despite this Anglo invasion, San Miguel is very Mexican village. The city boasts a thriving cultural and entertainment scene. Many events (plays, lectures, art classes) are in English.
The renowned San Miguel Music Festival (featuring Mexican and international artists) happens each December. A city with six patron saints and dozens of churches, San Miguel hosts a full calendar of religious festivals throughout the year. The town's biggest bash is San Miguel Arcángel, a celebration honoring the town's chief patron saint. The event includes a running of bulls through city streets, traditional dancers, and lots of merriment. It is held each September 29th.
El Jardin, the city's main plaza (zocalo) is a great starting spot. You can't miss the city's landmark, La Parroquia, the pink, gothic church on the main plaza. La Parroquia on the main plaza is as recognizable an icon for San Miguel as the Eiffel Tower is for Paris. It is one of a few features that distinguish San Miguel from the state's other colonial city attraction, Guanajuato.
For shopping, the city boasts some of Mexico's best craft shops and fine art boutiques. Variety of merchandise is exceptional, as is the workmanship. Its dining scene is top notch. Nouvelle Mexican cuisine, plus a diverse assortment of international dining options have given San Miguel a reputation for having the best "small town" dining in Mexico.
Most of San Miguel's sightseeing highlights are clustered around the compact downtown area. This is a wonderful city for aimless wandering along its narrow cobbled lanes. One of the best city views is from the town's Mirador, located on a hill to the southeast of the city center. At the foot of the hill is El Chorro, which spouts a natural spring where the city's women come to do laundry. Further along is Parque Juárez, a shady green belt with ponds, fountains, and benches. If you are looking for an authentic Mexican town with international flair, centuries old history, and a relaxing almost peaceful feeling, San Miguel de Allende is the vacation (or retirement spot) for you. | From the Vip Club Newsletter for San Miguel de Allende with information on discounts available for club members who have purchased the VIP Club Discount Card
- Accounting Services: Juan Manuel Orta,
044-415-101-1805, free consultation for first-timers
- Aqua Bell, purified water, call 120-3500, 19 liter jugs,
home delivered, no deposit charge, 12-pesos, 20% discount
- Art Print, San Francisco 11, upstairs, (quality full-color
digital printing, 10% minimum $400 pesos)
- BBQ Bob's, Salida de Celaya #6 organic produce, (10%, 100
peso minimum)
- Beatriz's Vacation Rental Apartments - 10% discount off rentals apartments.
- "Best of San Miguel" published by Joseph Harmes,
(10%), order by e-mail:
escritorsma@cybermatsa.com.mx
- Black & White Shop - "Tonina" - now located Loreto
28A, 20% off
- Camar Printing - 10% off all printing
services, minimum $500 pesos.
- Casa del Inquisidor, Aldama No. 1. Members may take 10% off marked goods. Casa del Inquisidor furniture & décor store, furniture, upholstery, rugs and hardware, in addition to Casa del Inquisidor's professional interior design.
- Casa Linda, Luxury Hotel - 15% off for cash, 5% when using credit
card.
- Casa Montana Hotel in Pozos - 20%.
- Chelo's Farmacia - 20% drugs, 15% off retail products except those
already marked down, $50 pesos minimum.
- Classes un LTD - VIP Club members may take 10% off continuous education
classes. For additional info visit their website, www.classesunlimited.com,
or call: 152-2483.
- Clinica Izuinapan Pet Care and Spa. Veterinario Dr. Rodrigo Garibay offers 10% off pet needs including spaying, neutering, grooming and SPA services. La Clinica secializes in alternative and preventive medical treatment & Professional Grooming for pets
Relampago #22 Col. La Lejona 2da. Seccion,
Cell: 044 415 151 9325.
- Darla's Jewelry, corner of Correo and Recreo, (15%)
- Dryclean USA, Salida A Celaya No.14, 185-8200,
Dry clean and laundry services, pick up and
delivery, 15% discount, 100 peso minimum.
- DuPont Paints, 152-39-87, (10%) off
Two locations Salida de Celaya #26 and, Libramiento a Dolores Hidalgo #46, 044-415-100-6552
- Elite Nails, waxing etc. Zacateros #29 (15%) 100 peso minimum
- ERA Gift Shop, Zacateros #39, (10%)
- Georgia Dering Massage Therapy, 044-415-103-3364 (10%)
- Goldie Designs, Canal #9, (10%)
- Helena Moreno Fine Arts Gallery, Jesus #18, (10% off marked
items)
- Hotel Casa Cafe on Hidalgo, (10%) coffee by the kilo, whole
bean or ground
- Intercam Casa de Cambio - (premium rate slightly above posted rate
when cashing in dollars).
- Joyous Heart represents, Shaklee, Mexico, Zamora Rios
#9, Colonia Allende, 152 1213. Deep discounts to VIP Club Members.
- La Morada Hotel - 20% off rooms and suites (some black out dates apply).
- Lavamagico laundry service (home delivery), Pila Seca
#5, 152-0899. (10)%
- Noel Propane Gas, home delivery, (6%) off retail price
154-8383 Special Instructions, must call in for cylinders or tanks
beforehand give card # and date of expiration. If encountering truck
on the street must call in when in house. laundry service (home delivery), Pila
Seca #5, 152-0899. (10)%
- The Leather Shop - Umarán #1, (10%)
- Moyshen Art Gallery Hidalgo #4, (10% off marked art)
- McDonalds Mail Box Service to US (10% discount for year
payment)
- Patricia's facial & body treatments, Ladrillera #1,
154-8104. (10%)
- Ren Ellis Leather Goods, Recreo 8A (10%)
- San Miguel Health and Fitness Center - 20% off first month's membership.
- Satellite Mexico TV - Welcome, SATELLITE MEXICO, VIP Club members
can take 10% off services, including installation. Contact Chuck for info: satellitemexico@yahoo.com
- 3 Señores - Camping and horseback riding. For reservations
call:
044-415-101-4976. 25% discount of regular rates.
- San Miguel Designs; (www.sanmigueldesigns.com).
(15%).
- Satellite Mexico TV (10%) off services, including installation
- Seventh Heaven Boutique - Sollano #13, Various discounts to members.
- Stilo Lamps and Furniture, Casada Aurora, (10% off marked
goods)
- Vista Real Hotel and Vista Real Hotel's Restaurant - (20%) Blackout
periods apply
Notice: Certain Restaurants and Businesses
may have restrictions that do not appear on this website. Please contact The
Restaurant Club directly for a complete list of participating businesses and
restrictions. Web site Questions/Corrections, contact web@vipsanmiguel.com and Lou Christine
VIP Questions, contact vipsma@cybermatsa.com.mx for the VIP
CLUB | I’ve written quite a bit about The Ugly American Syndrome. In my columns,
print and online magazines, and in every book I’ve written, I’ve
mentioned this topic. I get a lot of mail from readers, either praising and agreeing
with me or chiding and condemning me.
As of today, I think I will begin cutting Americans some slack, especially
American expats in Mexico, regarding The Ugly American Syndrome. My visit to
the bank today convinced me that maybe I’ve been too harsh and need to
lighten up a bit. I think my readers (the chiders and condemners) in San Miguel
de Allende might breathe a collective sigh of relief over this announcement.
What happened is something that should not have surprised or shocked me. I
guess I simply have reached the end of my expat rope—at least today. When
I get my quarterly royalty checks from my book publishers, I take them to my
Mexican bank and deposit them. Because they are drawn on a foreign account in
the States, there is understandably a hold on these checks.
I get that and it doesn’t bother me one bit.
But here is what I’ve been told ever since I began depositing royalty
checks into this account:
“There will be a two-week hold on this check.”
At the end of two weeks, the wife and I go off to the ATM to check the balance
and the funds are not there. We go back to the bank. The bank officer tells us:
“Oh, there is always a three-week hold on foreign checks.”
We wait another week, go to the ATM, and the funds aren’t there. So,
we go again to the bank.
“Oh, there is a 22-day hold on all foreign checks.”
The next day, we go to the ATM and the funds are not there. We go into the
bank:
“There must be some mistake. There is always a 25-day hold on all foreign
checks.”
We wait three more days and go to the ATM to check things out. There are no
funds. We drag ourselves into the bank with the wife trying to talk me out of
murdering someone.
“Oh my, my! There is always a 30-day hold on all foreign checks.”
In Mexico, as I have written before, nothing, and I mean absolutely nothing,
is as it seems. Nothing will work with any degree of logic or reason known to
the rest of the world. Here two weeks can mean pretty much any amount of time.
In Guanajuato, Mexico, two weeks means many things. It can mean three weeks,
twenty-two days, twenty-five days, or thirty days. And let me tell you, each
bank employee will tell you something different each time you make a deposit.
They will look you straight in the eye and tell you whatever comes to their minds,
whether it is the truth or not.
What I do not get is just why no bank employee knows how anything works! This
brings me to a conversation with an American expat who has lived in Mexico much
longer than I have. She said once that what Mexico needs is a Business Manager.
These people need a Business Manager in everything that has to do with anything
to show them how things work. This is because in all aspects of life, at least
in Guanajuato, no one who does anything that has to do with something knows just
how it is suppose to work.
Trying to do banking in Guanajuato is not the only thing that doesn’t
work. I would love to tell you that this is so but I would be lying.
Once we tried going to the movies. The theater manager was at a party and
was having too good of a time to show up with the keys to the box office to sell
tickets. She sent word that someone was welcome to come and get the keys and
sell tickets, otherwise we would all have to wait.
Can you begin to imagine what would have happened in America when this movie
theater manager finally showed up? She or he would have been lynched by the crowd.
Here is the really bad thing. This sort of “Qué Será,
Será, whatever will be, will be…” service is vastly tolerated
all over this country. The Mexican nationals, at least from my observation, seem
to tolerate a level of service from providers that Americans and Europeans would
not tolerate for a second!
Only those who have spent time internationally seem to be perturbed by those
of their fellow countrymen who settle for or offer this, “The future’s
not ours to see, Qué Será, Será…” service.
Well, the next time I see some American tourist or expat acting out The Ugly
American Syndrome, I am going to march up to them, pat them on the back, and
tell them, “I feel your pain, Bubba!”
by Douglas Bower
Article Source: EzineArticles.com | |
