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San Miguel de Allende -- Today is Sunday, August 01, 2010 02:17 at our loyal server in the USAIf you read guidebooks or travel articles about México, you will read
that Mexicans are wonderfully accommodating, friendly, warm, and generous to
strangers. You will be given the impression these people are the “Salt
of the Earth” and maybe even virtually Saints. You will be told things
like, “Mexicans are helpful to a fault” and “they will be so
patient with you trying to learn Spanish.” While this might be true, I
have, of late, begun to doubt the multitude of clichés that pour forth
from all the guidebook and article sources about Mexico.
About 18 months into our expatriation experiment, my wife and I began to wonder
what was going on in the heartland of Mexico. The clichés we had read
in our pre-expat research were, frankly, beginning to fall apart. The longer
we lived here, the more we were beginning to see things that the guidebooks gushed
about Mexican’s congeniality weren’t necessarily true. Something
wasn’t adding up.
Guanajuato is about as much in the middle of the country as it gets. It is
truly the heartland of Mexico. Here life is uber-provincial. The dictionary defines
provincial as, “a person of local or restricted interests or outlook; a
person lacking urban polish or refinement.” I began hearing this uber-provincial
stuff more and more as the years went by. I heard this from not only American,
German, and Canadian expatriates but also from Mexicans who grew up in other
parts of Mexico and who, for one reason or another, ended up in Guanajuato.
Certain things begin to happen to us that caused us to begin asking questions.
After all, we were still very fresh and green expats who didn’t know much.
But we began to ask about this or that once things started happening.
I guess it was the first time I was knocked into the street by a Mexican and
subsequently hit by a bus that caused me to wonder what was going on. The second
time was really what got me to wondering. I was pushed off the sidewalk not once
but twice into the path of an oncoming bus and was struck. Not once did anyone
stop to see if I was all right. The pushers never bothered to utter one word
to me. My wife has also been pushed and shoved off sidewalks. I have a 70-year-old
American gringa pal who was pushed into the path of a taxi and was nailed.
One just has to ask what is happening in Guanajuato, Mexico.
I wish I could tell you.
What I began to see long ago was that the Guanajuatenses on the street are
practically running to get somewhere but never arrive on time for anything. Although
all of Latin American (and Italy) is famous for how they regard time differently
than the rest of the world, this has slowly been changing in the more metropolitan
areas of Mexico. More and more, Mexicans are beginning to forsake their traditional
understanding of what it means to be on time for anything. Not so in Guanajuato.
It is just as traditional here as it has been for centuries. Some say the heartland
of Mexico is “stuck in the past.”
But, what you have are Guanajuatenses running at the speed of light and, I
can assure you, to get nowhere fast. They are absolutely not trying to get somewhere
on time. It is a cultural affectation here in Guanajuato. They will never, ever
arrive on time for anything. This is a total mystery in and of itself. Why are
they running? They never arrive on time for anything so what’s the rush?
So, you may logically ask, why are they running down the sidewalk knocking
gringos into the gutter? I wish I could tell you, but I can’t.
I have asked Mexicans because I have the facility in the language to do so.
Most of those I have questioned are not from Guanajuato originally. They are
here for a job, marriage, or whatever, and have been transplanted from other
regions of Mexico.
To my amazement, these Guanajuato transplants have told me that they view
the people of Guanajuato as some of the rudest, most ill educated, and most ill
reared Mexicans in the country. I have gotten emails from Mexicans and as well
as been told in face-to-face interviews that they regard Guanajuatenses Mexicans
as anti-social. This is amazing. These are Mexicans from other regions talking
about their fellow Mexicans. It very much reminds me of those from the Midwest
and western parts of America talking about New York.
Now, I have to take the word of those who tell me this since the only place
I’ve ever lived in this country is Guanajuato. But, I am beginning to take
their word to heart and believe what they say, hook, line, and sinker. Our experience
bears out what our Extra-Guanajuatenses have told us.
Once, I got an email from a Mexican lady in Puerto Vallarta. She had read
some of my articles and columns but poo-poo’ed me as a crazy gringo. Then,
she and another Mexican girlfriend came traveling through Guanajuato. She said
she couldn’t wait to email me and tell me how many times she was shoved
off the sidewalk and pushed away from the cashier’s counter in stores.
Just this morning, my wife was in line to buy some very delicious tamales.
She placed her order and paid the guy. Before the seller could get out of his
mouth, “One moment while I get your food” a Mexican lady, one of
our congenial, warm, and kind Guanajuatenses, elbowed my wife out of line and
cut in front of her. The seller had to be someone from some other part of Mexico
because he noticed what happened and told this woman to get in line.
A month ago, some college student who thought it was appropriate to lay hands
on me and shove me a good one shoved me out of the way in a pharmacy! I wish
I could tell you that these are all isolated incidents but I would be lying.
The guy pushed me as though I was a piece of furniture that was in his way.
The mystery is how Mexicans are supposed to be such kind, generous, and accommodating
people to foreigners while in Guanajuato, you are just liable to be pushed into
the path of an oncoming bus going at the speed of light. How…how…how
is this so?
The other day, we were exiting the post office when we saw one Mexican do
something to another Mexican. This kid, in his early twenties, walked by a lady
who had set her heavy bolsa (a large shopping bag) on the sidewalk while waiting
for a cab. This young man kicked the bolsa into the street. It seemed unintentional.
He looked briefly and then walked off. The lady took off after him. While she
was trying to corral him, a bus came by and squashed her bolsa and all its contents
to smithereens.
My wife once had to catch an elderly lady who was shoved off a 12-inch-high
sidewalk by two girls who seemed not to care a wit that they almost killed one
of their fellow countrywomen.
Something else that goes on in stores all over the city—another mystery--is
something that would get Guanajuatenses killed in America. When you go to meat
counter or any place with a counter, Guanajuatenses will shove you out of the
way to bark their orders to the hired help, even though the employee was already
waiting on you. Don’t miss the picture here. There you are. You’ve
just given your order to the butcher for a kilo of hotdogs when some Señora
puts her hands on you (or elbows you) and knocks you into the middle of next
week so she can be at the front of the line.
This goes on all the time, without fail, day and night—and there’s
nothing you can do about it!
NOTHING!
Why they do it I cannot tell you. We have asked and are told that the people
of Guanajuato are “malcriados” and “maleducadas” …this
means ill-raised and badly-educated.
I think the mystery is how did they earn the warm and inviting reputation
that you read in all the guidebooks? They certainly could not have meant the
heartland of Mexico, especially not Guanajuato!
Perhaps it’s the other regions about which the guidebooks have been
talking.
I do not know!
by Douglas Bower
Article Source: EzineArticles.com | San Miguel de Allende
(Historical perspective taken from a 1998 AAA guidebook--interesting to see what is the same and what has changed in 2007)
The city is located about 170km south of San Luis Potosi. Driving time is about 2 hours. The city has an elevation of 6,134 feet.
San Miguel de Allende traces its history to the immediate aftermath of the Spanish conquest. As mines began to exploit the rich gold and silver deposits of Mexico's central highland region, mule trains were formed to carry the bounty back to Mexico City. These caravans, however, passed through territory occupied by the Chichimeca Indians, and many a skirmish erupted. The village of San Miguel was founded in 1542 by the Franciscian monk Juan de San Miguel, who established a mission to evangalize the Indians and also to teach European weaving and agricultural techniques.
The settlement prospered, becoming the local market center for surrounding haciendas trading in cattle and textiles. It also went through several name changes, including San Miguel de los Chichimecas and San Miguel el Grande. It was here that the native son Ignacio Allende, along with Father Miquel Hidalgo from the neighboring town of Dolores Hidalgo, planned the initial uprising that led to the 11-year War of Independence. "Allende" was added to the town's name in 1826 to honor the freedom fighter.
San Miguel entered a period of decline following the war. Its opulent churches and mansions fell into decay, and poverty set in as mining operations subsided. But in 1926 -- a century after it became offically at city -- the Maxican government declared San Miguel a national historic monument. Modern contruction was prohibited in the city center to preserve the atmosphere, and the old buildings were restored. Foreigners began moving in during the 1930s, and today there is a well-established permanent community of North American expatriates, augmented by teachers, artists and writers who call San Miguel home for up to 6 months each year.
Away from the carefully preserved downtown section there's an everyday scruffiness, with the drab adobe huts lining dusty streets. San Miguel also has experienced growing pains due to an increased number of tourists. While agricultural exports, particulary vegetables, bring in revenue, the growth in population and industry has put a strain in the available water supply.
Visitors gravitate downtown, where coats of arms are carved over the doorways of houses that formerly belonged to Spanish aristocrats; they prospered from the Zacatecas-Guanajuato-Mexico City silver route that once ran through San Miguel. Inner patios shelter fountains, trees and flowers. Some of these handsome buildings now house commercial banks.
Make your first stop the main plaza, located between calles San Francisca and Correo and commonly referred to as El Jardin. Shaded by Indian laurel trees, it's a great place to relax on a wrought-iron bench, listen to the tolling bells of La Parroquia, the parish church, and observe the local scene. Artists working on their canvases are a common sight in the vicinity of the plaza, and most of the city's attractions are within walking distance. Note: Wear comfortable shoes; the city streets are narrow, steep and cobblestoned.
| From the Vip Club Newsletter for San Miguel de Allende with information on discounts available for club members who have purchased the VIP Club Discount Card
- Accounting Services: Juan Manuel Orta,
044-415-101-1805, free consultation for first-timers
- Aqua Bell, purified water, call 120-3500, 19 liter jugs,
home delivered, no deposit charge, 12-pesos, 20% discount
- Art Print, San Francisco 11, upstairs, (quality full-color
digital printing, 10% minimum $400 pesos)
- BBQ Bob's, Salida de Celaya #6 organic produce, (10%, 100
peso minimum)
- Beatriz's Vacation Rental Apartments - 10% discount off rentals apartments.
- "Best of San Miguel" published by Joseph Harmes,
(10%), order by e-mail:
escritorsma@cybermatsa.com.mx
- Black & White Shop - "Tonina" - now located Loreto
28A, 20% off
- Camar Printing - 10% off all printing
services, minimum $500 pesos.
- Casa del Inquisidor, Aldama No. 1. Members may take 10% off marked goods. Casa del Inquisidor furniture & décor store, furniture, upholstery, rugs and hardware, in addition to Casa del Inquisidor's professional interior design.
- Casa Linda, Luxury Hotel - 15% off for cash, 5% when using credit
card.
- Casa Montana Hotel in Pozos - 20%.
- Chelo's Farmacia - 20% drugs, 15% off retail products except those
already marked down, $50 pesos minimum.
- Classes un LTD - VIP Club members may take 10% off continuous education
classes. For additional info visit their website, www.classesunlimited.com,
or call: 152-2483.
- Clinica Izuinapan Pet Care and Spa. Veterinario Dr. Rodrigo Garibay offers 10% off pet needs including spaying, neutering, grooming and SPA services. La Clinica secializes in alternative and preventive medical treatment & Professional Grooming for pets
Relampago #22 Col. La Lejona 2da. Seccion,
Cell: 044 415 151 9325.
- Darla's Jewelry, corner of Correo and Recreo, (15%)
- Dryclean USA, Salida A Celaya No.14, 185-8200,
Dry clean and laundry services, pick up and
delivery, 15% discount, 100 peso minimum.
- DuPont Paints, 152-39-87, (10%) off
Two locations Salida de Celaya #26 and, Libramiento a Dolores Hidalgo #46, 044-415-100-6552
- Elite Nails, waxing etc. Zacateros #29 (15%) 100 peso minimum
- ERA Gift Shop, Zacateros #39, (10%)
- Georgia Dering Massage Therapy, 044-415-103-3364 (10%)
- Goldie Designs, Canal #9, (10%)
- Helena Moreno Fine Arts Gallery, Jesus #18, (10% off marked
items)
- Hotel Casa Cafe on Hidalgo, (10%) coffee by the kilo, whole
bean or ground
- Intercam Casa de Cambio - (premium rate slightly above posted rate
when cashing in dollars).
- Joyous Heart represents, Shaklee, Mexico, Zamora Rios
#9, Colonia Allende, 152 1213. Deep discounts to VIP Club Members.
- La Morada Hotel - 20% off rooms and suites (some black out dates apply).
- Lavamagico laundry service (home delivery), Pila Seca
#5, 152-0899. (10)%
- Noel Propane Gas, home delivery, (6%) off retail price
154-8383 Special Instructions, must call in for cylinders or tanks
beforehand give card # and date of expiration. If encountering truck
on the street must call in when in house. laundry service (home delivery), Pila
Seca #5, 152-0899. (10)%
- The Leather Shop - Umarán #1, (10%)
- Moyshen Art Gallery Hidalgo #4, (10% off marked art)
- McDonalds Mail Box Service to US (10% discount for year
payment)
- Patricia's facial & body treatments, Ladrillera #1,
154-8104. (10%)
- Ren Ellis Leather Goods, Recreo 8A (10%)
- San Miguel Health and Fitness Center - 20% off first month's membership.
- Satellite Mexico TV - Welcome, SATELLITE MEXICO, VIP Club members
can take 10% off services, including installation. Contact Chuck for info: satellitemexico@yahoo.com
- 3 Señores - Camping and horseback riding. For reservations
call:
044-415-101-4976. 25% discount of regular rates.
- San Miguel Designs; (www.sanmigueldesigns.com).
(15%).
- Satellite Mexico TV (10%) off services, including installation
- Seventh Heaven Boutique - Sollano #13, Various discounts to members.
- Stilo Lamps and Furniture, Casada Aurora, (10% off marked
goods)
- Vista Real Hotel and Vista Real Hotel's Restaurant - (20%) Blackout
periods apply
Notice: Certain Restaurants and Businesses
may have restrictions that do not appear on this website. Please contact The
Restaurant Club directly for a complete list of participating businesses and
restrictions. Web site Questions/Corrections, contact web@vipsanmiguel.com and Lou Christine
VIP Questions, contact vipsma@cybermatsa.com.mx for the VIP
CLUB | Mexican Coke: The 'Real Thing?'
By TOM RAGAN
Sentinel staff writer
WATSONVILLE
It's popping up just about everywhere in Latino communities across the United States: Mexican-made Coca-Cola in those old glass bottles, somewhat of an anomaly in the age of the plastic liter and twist-off cap.
Slightly worn and a bit gritty from all the coming and going, the 12-ounce bottles, which sell for roughly $1.25 a pop, are being bought up and sucked dry at record clips in cities across the country with large Latino populations.
And Mexicans and Mexican-Americans aren't the only ones swigging down the soda bottled south of the border, claiming it tastes different from its American-made counterpart, that its fizz seems to last longer because it's in a glass bottle.
If running diaries on the Web in the form of blogs are any indication, just about everybody who likes the heft of a good old-fashioned soda bottle is looking for the Mexican-made pop in the thousands of ma and pa convenience stores that cater to Latinos.
"Mexican Coke is selling like crazy bro, and I can't keep up," says Rudy Mendoza of El Gordo Taqueria on Main Street. Last week the 20-something Mendoza, Salinas born and bred, was cursing the underground distributor under his breath as the slightly green tinted bottles, with the words "Hecho en Mexico," started to disappear from his refrigerator.
In somewhat of a conundrum, the Atlanta-based Coca-Cola Co. has condemned the recent imports across the country as a form of "bootlegging."
But at the same time the company has recognized that it would be remiss if it overlooked the Mexican pop craze, which is why it is now buying Coca-Cola in bottles from Mexico and importing them to Texas and Southern California, two of the largest Mexican markets in the country, according to Mart Martin, a spokesman for Coca-Cola's North American division in Atlanta.
"We believe that the appeal of Mexican Coke is as much about nostalgia as it is about anything," says Martin. "It's like getting a piece of home in a bottle. You can't deny the fact that it's in a tall glass bottle, something you just can't find in most parts of the United States."
But it's the "same exact product," and Mexican bottlers are buying the ingredients straight from the company, says Martin.
"It's not like they're stirring it up in some backyard," he adds. "Coke is Coke is Coke."
The company, however, rarely elaborates on Coke's ingredients, and the secret formula is actually in a vault in a bank in Atlanta. Instead, the company line all along has been that there is "no perceptible taste difference" between Mexican Coke and the American-made Classic Coke.
As Martin says, "You have to consider the circumstances: the packaging, whether there's ice over it, the temperature, or whether it's in a can or a bottle. But what often happens is people think it tastes different because it comes in a bottle, and that's what we're trying to get our arms around. The 'why?' It could just be psychological."
Yet there is one kicker, and it's a fairly large one: Mexican Coke may contain the same secret syrup, but its sweetener is entirely different.
It's made from sugar cane, not corn syrup.
'The Real Thing'
Latinos are the fastest-growing population segment in the United States, and Mexico accounts for well over half of the roughly 33 million Latinos who live in the country, according to the 2000 census.
Certainly, this is not the first time the Mexican market has flexed its muscle, with an occasional borrowing from U.S. popular culture.
Look closely at the Mexican man wearing that Texas Longhorns cap or the World Series-winning Chicago White Sox hat. There's a chance it came from a market just off the plaza in Any Town, Mexico.
But then there's the real Mexican deal, like tequila, which has anchored many a margarita happy hour; or tacos, as popular as hamburgers, without which there'd be no Taco Bell.
Mexico's a country that's put the popularity of chips and salsa right up there with ketchup and french fries.
And in yet another nod to the lucrative Latino market, Frito-Lay just came out with a "fiery habañero" flavor of Doritos that all but requires a bottle of water during consumption.
It's no secret that the meteoric rise in the Mexican population in the past few decades in the United States has given rise to all products Mexican, which has made its way into the mainstream of the American psyche — from canned jalapeños to cheaper laundry soaps to the corn tortilla.
But taking a brand name like Coca-Cola and undercutting the American-made Coca-Cola distributors on their own turf hasn't gone over well with the largest soft drink supplier in the world, according to Martin.
Although the bottlers in Mexico are authorized and are making the cola above board, it's the non-Coca-Cola distributors — the guys who are wheeling and dealing it in an underground market — that are causing all the problems.
Lawsuits have been filed, but no dispositions as of yet.
"They're trespassing on the territory rights of many U.S. bottlers," said Coke spokesman Martin. "Bringing it into the country is not illegal. But what it does do from the Coca-Cola standpoint is it violates contractual rights that we have with our bottlers. And it has potential trademark right infringements as well."
The controversy has even bubbled to the surface in several blogs.
Ordinary Joes are mixing their thoughts and opinions with the best of the high-browed corporate types who've made careers out of analyzing products that sell and those that don't.
Grant McCracken, a noted anthropologist with a doctorate from the University of Chicago, wrote: "Some consumers now insist that Mexican Coke is a more robust brand than American Coke, not least because it is charged with meanings that American Coke never had, or long ago gave up. In particular, Mexican Coke is charged with a powerful nostalgia, a remembrance of childhood south of the border."
Karina Alejandre, 22, a recently arrived immigrant from Mexico who now cooks at El Gordo Taqueria in Watsonville, remembers her first sip of Coca-Cola.
And guess what?
It didn't even come from a bottle.
"We'd drink from plastic sandwich bags with straws inside," she said in Spanish, an imaginary straw in her hand. "We couldn't leave the store with the bottles."
Since Coca-Cola was founded in the late 1880s as a syrup mixed with carbonated water, it's gone from the soda fountain to the bottle to the aluminum can to the plastic liter.
And now it's back to the bottle, courtesy of Mexico, a country that's usually a few years behind the times, often fashionably retro because of it.
And in the backrooms of some Mexican tiendas in Watsonville, from El Gordo to D'La Colmena, cases upon cases of the Mexican Coke bottles sit, proof that there's a demand, which is causing a stir but saturating a Latino and non-Latino thirst across the country.
As McCracken notes, "The bigger challenge of the Coca-Cola Co. is to admit that even the magnificent corporation that has created and preserved the 'real thing' authenticity must now admit to the possibility that there are many authenticities. This is the lesson of plenitude. This is the lesson of the long tail."
Miguel Perez and Leticia Martinez, Watsonville residents, don't know anything about corporate lessons learned.
They just know what they like.
"When we run out," says Martinez, "I buy the smaller American-made bottles. They cost more, but they're worth it. I love drinking Coke from the bottle."
from www.santacruzsentinel.com | In central Mexico, San Miguel de Allende is virtually the only place where
you will find English spoken so massively that you will not have to learn how
to say two words in this beautiful language. If the rest of central Mexico looks
interesting then you are going to have to get bilingual and learn to speak Spanish.
What happened in San Miguel is beginning to happen where my wife and I have
lived since 2003. Gentrification is happening at such a high rate of speed that
I see Guanajuato turning into an other San Miguel in less than five years. The
locals are beginning to sense the handwriting on the wall and are scrambling
to hire Mexicans that are bilingual to accommodate the Americans and other English
only speakers who are moving into Guanajuato.
This is how it began in San Miguel de Allende. When the word got out that
it was cheap to live in beautiful San Miguel de Allende, the Americans swarmed
in like locusts. They ran up the prices of everything you can imagine. And soon,
the locals became bilingual. They had to in order to offer their services to
the Gringo population that now numbers in the tens of thousands. That’s
why you can go to San Miguel and live perfectly well (that is if you are Bill
Gates rich) and never have a problem with the language.
That’s happening now in Guanajuato.
There are real estate agencies that are scrambling to hire bilinguals. There
is also a fellow, with a website, who will, for a price, negotiate anything and
everything for you since he is bilingual. If you do not speak a word of Spanish
(a tragedy) and want to move to Guanajuato (an even bigger tragedy) then this
guy is your man and he will take care of all of your Spanish needs.
I list him for you as a matter of courtesy. I do not know him.
All I know is that he offers this service:
Want to Buy a House in Guanajuato City?
Don’t have any ideas how to approach and deal directly with Mexican
People?
Afraid of being "abused" because you are not familiar with Mexican
and Guanajuato Business Culture, Laws, Locations, Neighborhoods, and Language?
Don't worry!, we have the solution for you by offering:
REAL ESTATE CONSULTANCY
(We are NOT a Real Estate Agency, We work FOR You) Our Services Include:
· Arrangement of appointments, directly with Owners.
· Visits to the properties.
· Simultaneous Interview Translation (English to Spanish and Spanish
to English). You can ask about anything that concerns you.
· Assessment on area or neighborhood growth potential, accessibility,
communications and services. · Assistance in value assessment.
· Price Negotiation assistance and advice.
· Information concerning repair and remodel.
· Advise on Security and Safety issues in relation to locations.
· Services for coordinating purchase and the legal process.
Price:
Free initial interview (10 to 15 minutes). $15 US Dollars per hour, a partial
hour counts as an hour, cut off on a daily basis. $15 US Dollars per week to
local phone calling to coordinate appointments and search properties. Taxi fees
when necessary. (From $3 to $6 US Dollars one way trip).
Payments must be made on Fridays.
We accept U.S. Dollars, Euros and Travelers Checks, no personal checks nor
credit cards.
Special rates apply for written translation and other services, please ask.
Contact: Hugo Rodriguez. / Phone: 73 22383 (Within Guanajuato City) 011 52
473 73 22383 (From The U.S. & Canada) (+) 52 473 73 22383 (From Other Countries)
English, French and Spanish Spoken.
We accept U.S. Dollars, Euros and Travelers Checks, no personal Checks nor
Credit Cards.
I imagine more and more of these services coming up in the weeks and months
ahead. I was told recently that the list of gringos waiting for properties is
longer than the available supply. It is sad. What will happen is the same identical
thing that happened to San Miguel de Allende. The culture will be transformed
by most rich monolingual Gringos who cannot, because they want not, to learn
Spanish.
The wife and I are looking for a place where Gringos would fear to tread as
a new home.
It ought to be very interesting.
by Douglas Bower
Article Source: EzineArticles.com | |
