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San Miguel de Allende -- Today is Wednesday, March 10, 2010 08:48 at our loyal server in the USAAnother interesting perspective from Mexonline
Located 60 kilometers north of Queretaro, the colonial gem of San Miguel de Allende, population 80,000, is situated on a hillside facing the Laja River and the distant Guanajuato Mountains. Declared a national monument in 1926, San Miguel is a picturesque city of arched colonial mansions, flower-filled patios, and winding, terraced cobblestone streets. It is particularly beautiful in March, when flowering jacaranda trees are in bloom. Roof top views and gardens of this colonial city It is Mexico's most celebrated artists' community, and has been luring artistically-inclined Mexicans and foreigners (about 3,500 Americans and Canadians) for decades.
Instituto Allende, founded in 1951, is an intellectual center and arts academy of renown. There are also many other institutes focusing on arts, literature, and language. Despite this Anglo invasion, San Miguel is very Mexican village. The city boasts a thriving cultural and entertainment scene. Many events (plays, lectures, art classes) are in English.
The renowned San Miguel Music Festival (featuring Mexican and international artists) happens each December. A city with six patron saints and dozens of churches, San Miguel hosts a full calendar of religious festivals throughout the year. The town's biggest bash is San Miguel Arcángel, a celebration honoring the town's chief patron saint. The event includes a running of bulls through city streets, traditional dancers, and lots of merriment. It is held each September 29th.
El Jardin, the city's main plaza (zocalo) is a great starting spot. You can't miss the city's landmark, La Parroquia, the pink, gothic church on the main plaza. La Parroquia on the main plaza is as recognizable an icon for San Miguel as the Eiffel Tower is for Paris. It is one of a few features that distinguish San Miguel from the state's other colonial city attraction, Guanajuato.
For shopping, the city boasts some of Mexico's best craft shops and fine art boutiques. Variety of merchandise is exceptional, as is the workmanship. Its dining scene is top notch. Nouvelle Mexican cuisine, plus a diverse assortment of international dining options have given San Miguel a reputation for having the best "small town" dining in Mexico.
Most of San Miguel's sightseeing highlights are clustered around the compact downtown area. This is a wonderful city for aimless wandering along its narrow cobbled lanes. One of the best city views is from the town's Mirador, located on a hill to the southeast of the city center. At the foot of the hill is El Chorro, which spouts a natural spring where the city's women come to do laundry. Further along is Parque Juárez, a shady green belt with ponds, fountains, and benches. If you are looking for an authentic Mexican town with international flair, centuries old history, and a relaxing almost peaceful feeling, San Miguel de Allende is the vacation (or retirement spot) for you. | from MexicoDiscovered.com which also has a Discover Mexico magazine.
San Miguel de Allende and Pozos
Mexico's most cultured retirement haven - and most popular artistic destination, was declared a Mexican national Monument in 1926. This meant that while other towns pulled down heritage buildings and replaced them with glass and steel boxes San Miguel was off-limits to that form of modernization. Without this single gesture, San Miguel may have become just another slightly decaying backwater - that time and the major highways left behind - instead of the architecturally pristine city we love.
But what a National Monument! Its proximity to the nearby silver cities of the Bajio meant that by the eighteenth century it was an important way station en route to Mexico City and an agriculture centre supplying the needs of the burgeoning city of Guanajuato. Spaniards, wealthy from extracting silver, built magnificent palaces here and then enhanced their already enormous fortunes farming the surrounding countryside through huge estates with equally magnificent haciendas as their centrepiece. Further enhancing the architectural splendour are ornate churches and oratorios that owe their existence to the patronage of these wealthy patrons - and the sweat and slave-like servitude of indigenous Indians. Despite the fact that many of the palaces and haciendas were gutted and plundered during the Mexican Revolution in the second decade of the last century, the basic structures were still extant in 1926.
It was this slightly scarred and somewhat neglected eighteenth century architectural masterpiece that so enamoured the few foreigners who ventured through here in the late 1920's and early 1930's. Set in the pastoral rolling hills of the Bajio, watered by natural springs, enjoying a spring like climate all year and suffused with a light beloved by artists, how could they resist. One such person was American, Sterling Dickinson who, recognized the possibilities, and founded the now internationally renowned Instituto Allende in 1938 as a place of study for fellow ex patriots. This was the second pivotal action that ensured San Miguel de Allende's future for, with the end of World War II came the United States GI Bill that supplied education grants to returning servicemen. These GIs soon discovered their limited funds went farther in San Miguel and the Institute thrived. A vibrant artistic and cultural society grew up around a still small but permanent expatriate community that serviced their needs. Many of these visiting students never left, instead they became the kernel of a growing artistic community that, generations later, continues to be supplemented by new infusions of artistic talent that also fall in love with San Miguel's special "light". At the same time, many of the wealthy tourists originally attracted by the town's reputation, returned to reside here on a permanent or semi-permanent basis. Attracted by this charming and safe city with a perfect climate they, in turn, became the basis of the well-heeled semi retirement community that San Miguel is today. At the same time other less wealthy (or merely more ambitious) visitors saw the opportunities afforded by this influx and opened even more businesses to serve this expanding tourist and residential market. These North Americans had the desire and the funds to restore the many badly neglected buildings - in accordance with the strict 1926 guidelines - that, today, the town is effectively an eighteenth century wonder with electricity and running water!
Well, not quite. The ubiquitous internal combustion engine knows no limits and San Miguel is no exception. Her narrow, winding and often very steep cobblestone streets can soon get jammed with noisy diesel spewing trucks and buses as well as the latest gas guzzling SUVs. Ironically perhaps it is the modern SUV that is the most appropriate vehicle to ply the uneven 200 year old cobblestone streets. Certainly, its 4 wheel drive capability comes in handy when the summer rains hit and the more steeply sloped streets become slick and traction becomes your number one priority. If it isn't, you will soon get used to walking that little bit extra just to avoid the problem of finding that most rare of things in downtown San Miguel - a parking spot.
The relationship between the expatriate and Mexican communities is remarkably cordial. One even gets the impression there is only one community. This is born of the fact that the two live side-by-side and both benefit from the other despite the fact that (with the notable exception of a comparatively small number of middle and upper class Mexicans) most expatriates are wealthier than their neighbours. Poverty and crime do exist in the peripheral Mexican areas of town but a strong tradition of volunteer work within the expatriate community has ameliorated many of the resentments such an "invading army" of privileged foreigners could have engendered. Certainly, San Miguel attracts relatively wealthy people, but they don't flaunt it. That is not what San Miguel is about. Any such wealth is generally hidden behind the enclosed walls and high gates of the town - for this is a town that values and encourages cultural and social endeavours above overt displays of wealth.
Members of the expatriate community who operate businesses here is one reason the town works so well. They have created jobs and so generated a higher standard of living and quality of life for all San Miguel residents. I was fortunate to meet a number of them - mainly in the real estate and hospitality fields - and was struck by the fact that many of them put as much time and energy into their social and charitable concerns as they did into their commercial pursuits. Dotty Vidargas of Vidargas Real Estate, for example, has lived in San Miguel for 40 years and is one of the driving forces restoring the nearby Santuario at Atotonilco. In contrast, Lane Simmons at Remax Colonial Real Estate became so involved with helping the town's poorer families and abused children that he and his wife have legally adopted two of the children he "rescued". Interestingly, most of San Miguel's realty companies are long established concerns. They know the San Miguel housing market inside out. As part of San Miguel society for decades they are able to impart to potential purchasers that they are buying into a community not just a home.
But whether they are house-hunting or just passing through, visitors need somewhere to stay. On the face of it that should not be a problem in San Miguel where the number of hotels, inns and B & Bs must exceed that of any town of comparable size in Mexico. Most, however, are small - with as few as 3 rooms - so don't be too confident you'll find a room without booking ahead! Old favourites in the deluxe class, such as the Casa de Sierra Nevada and la Puertecita must now compete with the intimate luxury of small exclusive enclaves such as Casa Quetzal among many where American amenities meet the best of Mexican design and influence, while less expensive old time landmark hotels such as the Mansion del Bosque remain perennial favourites.
Some San Miguelites have "discovered" a new San Miguel at Mineral de Pozos just 45 minutes from San Miguel. Popularly called Pozos it is a protected old silver mining town where many of its old mansions are being lovingly restored. In the main square are two hotels adjoining one another. The Casa Montana is the more recent addition but, even newer is the recently opened Real de Minas B&B. Both are American owned and are just two of the gringo vanguard already settled with established businesses here. Many more will come! | From the Vip Club Newsletter for San Miguel de Allende with information on restaurant discounts available for club members who have purchased the VIP Club Discount Card
- Alfredo's: 1520072, Inside Posada San Francisco Hotel.
Fine dining, international cuisine, lunch and dinner, 1 - 10pm daily, closed
Mondays. 20% discount for cash.
- BBQ Bob's - Salida de Celaya #6, 152-0807.
(10%) ($100 pesos minimum).
- Berlin - (10%) ($100 pesos minimum, cash)
- Buen Café - Jesus & Cuadrante, 152-5807.
Breakfast, lunch and dinner. Closed Sundays. (20%) ($100 peso minimum)
- Bugambilia - Hidalgo #42, 152-0127.
Lunch and dinner. Traditional Mexican dishes. (20%) (no credit cards for
discount).
- Café San Francisco, Posada San Francisco - Plaza
Principal 2, 152-0072.
Courtyard and street side dining, full menu, Mexican cuisine including seafood
and full bar. (20%.)
- Casa Blanca - Hidalgo #34, 154-6070. Famous for crepes,
pizza and international cuisine. (15%) ($100 pesos minimum)
- Casa Montana Hotel Restaurant, Pozos - Jardín
Principal, 01 (442) 293-0032 International and national dishes in the midst of
a one-time old ghost town in a small luxury hotel. (20%)
- Casa Payo - Zacateros #26. 152-7277.
Landmark San Miguel Argentinean steak house. (10%)
- Don Quijote - Prolongación de Pila Seca #55,
152-0807. Bar and Grill, famous ribs and burgers, lunch and dinner. Closed Mondays.
(20% cash, 10% credit cards)
- El Asador Catlán - Km. 9 Salida a Querétaro, 120-8118
Open 1 until 7pm. Closed Mondays. Renowned traditional Spanish fare. 15% cash,
10% credit card
- El Correo Restaurant - Correo #23, 152-4951 Good traditional
Mexican food, full bar, closed Tuesdays. (15% cash, 10% credit card)
- El Puente,Canal 48, 154-8466, open everyday,
breakfast, lunch and dinner, 8:30 - 11:30 pm, featuring seafood and molés.(10%)
- Finnegan's Restaurant, two entrances, off Codo or
off Zacateros. Full menu, live entertainment, Wednesday through Saturday evenings,
with a live Sunday Jazz session from 3-5pm. The menu is a mixed bag including
Mexican dishes and some of international fame. (10%)
- El Tomato, Mesones #62, 151-6057, Open,
Monday through Saturday, 9 a.m. - 9 p.m. All natural food restaurant, mostly
vegetarian dishes and sandwiches, salads fruits and vegetable juices. 10 %, not
valid for daily special.
- Hacienda los Laureles: Open 1-11pm, everyday but Tuesdays.
Indoor and outdoor seating. Full bar, extensive menu traditional Mexican foods,
Sunday buffet. (20%)
- Harry's New Orleans Cafe and Oyster Bar - Hidalgo #12,
152-2645 for dinner reservations. New Orleans Cafe, Fresh sea food, cajun and
creole dishes, extensive wine list, open 7 days a week. (10%, Cash only)
- La Fragua - Cuna de Allende #3, 152-1144
One of the most traditional restaurants in San Miguel, chef Fernando is your
host with special recipes, full bar. Closed Mondays. (10%)
- La Boca: Hernandez Macias #88, open everyday
except Mondays, tasty sandwiches, pastas, soups and salads, along with other
specials. they sport a full bar open 'til midnight weeknights and 1 a.m. (15%)
- L'Escargot, Hernandez Macias #66, 154-9024.
Authentic French cuisine Lunch and dinner, specialties like Beef Wellington,
Oyster Rockefeller and escargot. Closed Mondays. 15% discount.
- La Puertecita - Santa Domingo #75 , 152-5011.
Rated internationally, as one of the top 100 small luxury hotels in the entire
world. (20%) (no discount on buffets)
- La Princesa - Recreo (20%)
- La Toscana, Hernandez Macias #83, 154-9608,
open daily 1 p.m. until midnight, closed Tuesdays. Full bar and menu: Salads,
a variety of pastas with various sauces, beefs, poultry and salmon. Wines from
Italy, Spain, France, Argentina and Chile. 15% discount Cash only. $100 peso
minimum.
- La Vista, Vista Real Hotel Restaurant: Callejón
de Arias #4, 152-3984. Hotel restaurant, International dining room and exquisite
view of San Miguel. (20%)
- L'Invito (Instituto Allende) - Ancha de San Antonio
#20, 152-7333. Serving authentic recipes from the north of Italy great ambience.
(20%) (Instituto Allende)
- Los Famosos De Pozos - Hidalgo #10B, Mineral de Pozos, Guanajuato.
01 442 293 0112, quaint seeting retaurant in the so called ghost town of Pozos
offering a full menu and bar while serving traditional Mexican food.
- Manolo's - Corner of Pila Seca and Zacateros 152-7277
Intimate sports bar, appetizers, full meals, draft beer, Sporting events, satellite
direct TV. (15%)
- Market Bistro & Petit Bar - Hernandez Macias #95,
152-3229. Country French cooking. Imported wines. Daily until 11pm, midnight
on weekends. (15%, $100 peso minimum at bar)
- Mesón Castellano - Salida a Celaya #57.
Spanish restaurant featuring paella. (15%)
- Mesón de San José - Mesones #38, 152-3848.
Located back in a courtyard off Calle Mesones, Homemade soups and fresh salads.
(20%) ($100 peso minimum)
- Olé Olé - Loreto #66, 152-0896. The best
fajitas en the region, (10%)
- Pueblo Viejo - Umarán #6, 152-4977. Breakfast,
lunch and dinner, Traditional Mexican and international dishes. (20%)
- QUANDO foods, vacuum-sealed, frozen, comfort foods easy
to prepare while placed in boiling water. Quando sells gourmet type food products
that includes, soups, main dishes and deserts. Some of their selections are:
Mushroom chicken roll, potato chicken roll, Coq au Vin with risotto, Chinese
ribs, Lisbon, French and Valencia pork dishes, Toas chicken, chicken pot pie,
meat loaf and much-much more. For club members this is a DELIVERY SERVICE ONLY.
The 10% discount offered to members is NOT INCLUDED at retail outlets where they
also market Quando products. There is a 30 peso delivery charge. Members can
call 152-5153, 152-0038 or 044-415-153-3444 for immediate delivery. Ask for Pam
or Cindy.
- Punta Sush Ingo: Hildago #23,
1521619. Combination sushi bar and internet cafe. Open seven days a week. (10%)
- Sierra Nevada - Hospicio #35, 152-0415. San Miguel's
prestigious hotel, all three of its charming restaurants are available.
Also try Sierra Nevada on the park, just below the Chorro, one of San Miguel's
most beautiful settings. 15% cash or credit card (all three locations)
- Tapas y Tinis: Umaran #36, Modern bar and restaurant,
intimate atmosphere, serving tapas, serves late (10%)
- Ten Ten Pie Restaurant: Corner of Cuadrante and Cuna
Allende, Small, clean and resonable prices, local restaurant, open seven days
a week, serving breakfast lunch and dinner, serves late (10%) (20% off spirits)
- Tio Lucas: Mesones #103, 1524996, Hallmark San Miguel
steakhouse, plus. Open seven days, serves late, nightly entertainment. (10%)
- Villa Rivera Hotel Restaurant, Cuadrante #1, 152-2289.
Behind the Parroquia. Inside and outside dining. International menu, wonderful
ambience, Breakfast, lunch and dinner. (20%)
- Villa Mirasol; Inside Villa Mirasol Hotel, open for
breakfast and lunch in garden setting. (10%)
New restaurants are added frequently, and occasionally
restaurants drop out of the program with 60 days notice. Ask for the bi-monthly
restaurant club newsletter at authorized outlets for detailed information on
restaurants and the current list of participants. All participating restaurants
are under contract with the San Miguel Restaurant Club to provide the same fine
service as they would to patrons who walk in off the street. Discounts are waived
during happy hours, 2X1 specials or other special events in which the restaurant
is offering discounts to the public at large.
Notice: Certain
Restaurants and Businesses may have restrictions that do not appear on this website.
Please contact The Restaurant Club directly for a complete list of participating
businesses and restrictions. | Another perspective on the state of Guanajuato from Guide2Mexico.
Guanajuato, set up in the mountains, is a twisted mess of narrow little alleys, streets and tunnels that seem designed to confuse and disorient you. But in reality it is just a product of the mountainous topography that sandwiches it along the old river bed. That is part of its charm though. At every turn you find yourself distracted by its picturesque beauty, and a constant temptation to snap a photograph. Founded in the mid 1500s, it was built along the meandering path of the Río Guanajuato. The town was plagued by floods that claimed many lives, but eventually the river was diverted. The old riverbed is now a twisting underground street that is sure to leave you without a clue about where you are on your first time through it.
If you have ever seen any drawings or paintings of Guanajuato, chances are good you have seen bits and pieces of this subterranean part of the city. During the colonial era the city was fabulously wealthy from mining. World famous mines such as La Valenciana, Mineral de Cata and Mineral de Rayas earned their wealthy owners titles of nobility. From the 16th through the 18th centuries, Guanajuato was one of Mexico's most important colonial cities, along with Queretaro, Zacatecas, San Miguel and San Luis Potosi. These cities accounted for 1/3 of the world's silver production, and with the immense wealth came elaborate architecture including many churches and mansions. In 1989 the city was declared a "World Heritage Zone".
The city remains the state's capitol, although not its largest city. Today, Guanajuato is alive with music that can regularly be heard eminating from its plazas. In the evening, groups of young people called estudiantinas stroll through town playng stringed instruments. During the Cervantinos, music seems to be coming from every corner of city. As home to a major university the city enjoys a large student population, so there is no shortage of nightlife. The bulletin boards at the university are a good place to look for news about art exibits, concerts, plays and lectures.
With a climate at an altitude of 6000 feet, Guanajuato enjoys pleasant temperatures year round. Winter evenings are cool, so a light jacket and a sweater are a good idea, but the day should bring temperatures in the 60s to 70s. The rainy season in from June to September, but that generally consist of afternoon showers and occasionally one in the evening. Otherwise expect daytime summer temperatures in the 70s.
Anytime of year is fine for visiting Guanajuato. Because of its year round popularity it is a good idea to call ahead for accommodations, but if you arrive early you can usually find somewhere to sleep. The one time of year that gets absolutely crazy is in October when the city celebrates the Festival Internacional Cervantino. During the festival, artists from all over the world come to perform their music, drama and dance. The festival is wonderful, but unless you are going to see the performances it is the most inconvenient time to visit the city. In recent years hordes of young people have turned it into a drunken street party. If that's your thing, then great. Otherwise hotels are jammed; you can't get a table at a restaurant or bar and it is even difficult to walk in some areas. | To some San Miguel de Allende means history and tradition, to others art or language, to many, just a place to call home. But, to all, there are a some things that make it unique and memorable, here are a few personal favorites…
THINGS TO SEE
San Miguel de Allende was, by 1790, one of the richest villages in Mexico, with a population over twice that of New York City at the time. The wealth came from the silver trade, and those that had made their fortunes took it upon themselves to build elaborate mansions, churches and theaters. This past grandeur is still evident, with outstanding examples of most styles of colonial Mexican architecture to be found.
Of note are the Templo de San Francisco, Templo de la Concepción (known locally as ‘Las Monjas’), the Oratorio de San Felipe Neri with its interior Santa Casa de Loreto, the Centro Cultural Ignacio Ramirez "El Nigromante” (a.k.a. Bellas Artes) and, without doubt, the Parroquia.
La Parroquia de San Miguel Arcángel:
The original Parish Church, built in the late 17th century, was of relatively modest design. This changed dramatically in 1880 when the master stone mason, Zeferino Gutierrez was commissioned to create a new facade. A self-taught architect, Gutierrez is reported to have taken the inspiration for his design from drawings and postcards of European cathedrals. The resulting neogothic fantasy, whose soaring turrets can be viewed from almost any spot in town, has made the Parroquia one of the most photographed churches in Mexico. El Jardín:
Centered between the Parroquia to the south, colonnades of colonial arches to the east and west and the Presidencia, or historic city hall, to the north, this bustling park is the heart of the city. It draws visitors to sit and gossip on the wrought iron benches shaded by boxy laurel trees, to pause and listen to musicians playing from its central gazebo or to line the stone walls and cheer as one of the town’s many parades passes by.
Biblioteca Pública:
The English Public library is Mexico's second largest English language library. The rambling building contdecorated reading room, a restful inner courtyard with wireless internet service, a theater offering foreign film and live performances, a computer center and café. It is an not only an important part in the lives of many of San Miguel’s expatriate population but, due to its mandate of enriching the lives of local students, it is also an integral part of the community.
El Charco de Ingenio:
This privately funded botanical garden and ecological reserve, located on the outskirts of town, is dedicated to restoring and preserving Mexican flora and encouraging endangered wildlife to flourish. The extensive grounds house a conservatory of Mexican plants, with particular emphasis on cacti and succulents; a center where one can purchase plants; remains of an ancient wool mill and an historic reservoir that is home to native and migratory birds. All is linked by a network of paths, with wonderful views of the town and countryside, that are ideal for biking and walking, and allow access for rock climbing on the steep canyon walls. An adjacent Nature Park provides grounds for picnicking and horseback riding.
Tianguis:
Imagine what would result if you crossed a flea market, a farmer’s market, a 19th century food court and the closeout bin at a discount clothier? If you can’t, you should visit the Tuesday open-air market held by Plaza Real del Conde. Under the shade of multicolored tarps are hundreds of vendors hawking fresh fruit and vegetables, dried herbs, kitchenware, hardware, beauty supplies, clothing (new, used, or remaindered from American retailers), watches, CD’s (some of which might be legal) and everything else in between. Even if you only go for the sights you will no doubt end up buying something.
Reprint Permission from "Su Casa"--Your Home in San Miguel de Allende
© 2006 Imprint Publishing/Advertising
Telephone in San Miguel:152-0493 | | |