|
No ads in this category. Would you like to add one?
You MAY LOGIN HERE in order to add an ad. If you are not registered already, why not JOIN US HERE?
San Miguel de Allende -- Today is Wednesday, January 07, 2009 12:22 at our loyal server in the USAI thought I would write a follow-up to my column, “Move Over San Miguel
de Allende Here I Come”, since this is the only thing, writing, that prevents
from committing murderous acts of rage (Just Joking!) As you recall from the
previous column, I wrote how I tried to deposit a royalty check from my publisher
and was told the check would clear on four different dates. We were shown, last
week, on their computer screen that the funds would be available on the 18th
of December.
Well, today is the 18th. We marched down to the bank and, of course, in the
truest sense of TMO (Typical Mexican Operation) the funds were not available.
We went into the bank so I could seize a bank officer and choke him (just kidding!).
No, we talked to this guy who thought it cute to mumble at us. He actually told
us something entirely new.
He said that “the 18th” did not really mean “the 18th” but
it meant sometime after 6 p.m. on the 18th but before mid-night on the 18th and…and…maybe
even the 19th.
CAN YOU BELIEVE THIS?
This my dear readers is what we anal-retentive Americans (and “strung-tighter-than-piano
wire Germans”) have to deal with when we become expatriates living in Mexico.
It would seem, and I could be wrong, that Mexican banks just make up stuff as
they go along. There are no policy manuals, procedural steps, no rules, just
the “fly-by-the-seat-of-your-pants” way of doing things.
“Qué Será, Será: What ever will be, will be. The
future’s not ours to see. Qué Será, Será.”
This is exactly how things are done in central México. I have to tell
you though, those from other regions of the country are as dumbfounded as I am.
They tell me that this region of Mexico is “stuck in time and history.” They
are provincial to the point of having been throw into a time loop and cannot
escape the temporal hole they’ve been in since the middle ages. Time forgot
central Mexico and no one seems to really care to crawl out of this dimensional
morass in which they are quagmired.
What are we going to do?
I do not know. But, we are looking to other areas of Mexico that may not be
like living in a Latino Twilight Zone.
My fellow American expat said this:
“That what Mexico needs is a Business Manager. These people need a Business
Manager in everything that has to do with anything to show them how things work.
This is because in all aspects of life, at least in Guanajuato, no one who does
anything that has to do with something knows just how it is suppose to work.”
She has no idea what truth she spoke!
by Douglas Bower
Article Source: EzineArticles.com | The following excerpt is by the legendary Stirling Dickinson, who is probably the most important Gringo to ever make an impact on the development of San Miguel de Allende. From Brandeburgh Press, November 1969.
In 1542, the missionary Fray Juan de San Miguel established a tiny settlement known as San Miguel Viejo. It was a frontier outpost constantly threatened by hostile Indians. Spanish soldiers and families of Spanish settlers came and the new hamlet was moved to the slope of Moctezuma Hill where fresh springs provided water. Soon, a royal charter was created for the town known as San Miguel El Grande. For more than two and one half centuries, San Miguel thrived under the repressive but orderly rule of Spain, as it was a link on the silver route to Mexico City. In 1810 revolution flared, led by Captain Ignacio Allende of San Miguel and Father Miguel Hidalgo of the nearby town of Dolores. For eleven years the revolution was fought. Finally, after a Mexican victory over the Spanish, the town was renamed San Miguel de Allende, honoring Don Ignacio Allende, its greatest son and martyr to freedom.
Travel writers have often called San Miguel "the prettiest town in Mexico". That remark has become a cliche. Yet, like all cliches, it has basis in fact. San Miguel is the most charming of all Mexican towns. Today, its chief fame is as an art center and home to hundreds of foreign residents, not artistic themselves, but attracted by the atmosphere the arts create. Most of these residents are fiercely partisan about their community, quickly pointing out that although many tourists visit, its real life goes on quietly but busily behind the unrevealing walls of its homes and gardens. A stranger who harps on the defects of living here is likely to be met with a cold stare and a classic retort. "Of course, San Miguel is not perfect -- it is merely heaven."
| In central Mexico, San Miguel de Allende is virtually the only place where
you will find English spoken so massively that you will not have to learn how
to say two words in this beautiful language. If the rest of central Mexico looks
interesting then you are going to have to get bilingual and learn to speak Spanish.
What happened in San Miguel is beginning to happen where my wife and I have
lived since 2003. Gentrification is happening at such a high rate of speed that
I see Guanajuato turning into an other San Miguel in less than five years. The
locals are beginning to sense the handwriting on the wall and are scrambling
to hire Mexicans that are bilingual to accommodate the Americans and other English
only speakers who are moving into Guanajuato.
This is how it began in San Miguel de Allende. When the word got out that
it was cheap to live in beautiful San Miguel de Allende, the Americans swarmed
in like locusts. They ran up the prices of everything you can imagine. And soon,
the locals became bilingual. They had to in order to offer their services to
the Gringo population that now numbers in the tens of thousands. That’s
why you can go to San Miguel and live perfectly well (that is if you are Bill
Gates rich) and never have a problem with the language.
That’s happening now in Guanajuato.
There are real estate agencies that are scrambling to hire bilinguals. There
is also a fellow, with a website, who will, for a price, negotiate anything and
everything for you since he is bilingual. If you do not speak a word of Spanish
(a tragedy) and want to move to Guanajuato (an even bigger tragedy) then this
guy is your man and he will take care of all of your Spanish needs.
I list him for you as a matter of courtesy. I do not know him.
All I know is that he offers this service:
Want to Buy a House in Guanajuato City?
Don’t have any ideas how to approach and deal directly with Mexican
People?
Afraid of being "abused" because you are not familiar with Mexican
and Guanajuato Business Culture, Laws, Locations, Neighborhoods, and Language?
Don't worry!, we have the solution for you by offering:
REAL ESTATE CONSULTANCY
(We are NOT a Real Estate Agency, We work FOR You) Our Services Include:
· Arrangement of appointments, directly with Owners.
· Visits to the properties.
· Simultaneous Interview Translation (English to Spanish and Spanish
to English). You can ask about anything that concerns you.
· Assessment on area or neighborhood growth potential, accessibility,
communications and services. · Assistance in value assessment.
· Price Negotiation assistance and advice.
· Information concerning repair and remodel.
· Advise on Security and Safety issues in relation to locations.
· Services for coordinating purchase and the legal process.
Price:
Free initial interview (10 to 15 minutes). $15 US Dollars per hour, a partial
hour counts as an hour, cut off on a daily basis. $15 US Dollars per week to
local phone calling to coordinate appointments and search properties. Taxi fees
when necessary. (From $3 to $6 US Dollars one way trip).
Payments must be made on Fridays.
We accept U.S. Dollars, Euros and Travelers Checks, no personal checks nor
credit cards.
Special rates apply for written translation and other services, please ask.
Contact: Hugo Rodriguez. / Phone: 73 22383 (Within Guanajuato City) 011 52
473 73 22383 (From The U.S. & Canada) (+) 52 473 73 22383 (From Other Countries)
English, French and Spanish Spoken.
We accept U.S. Dollars, Euros and Travelers Checks, no personal Checks nor
Credit Cards.
I imagine more and more of these services coming up in the weeks and months
ahead. I was told recently that the list of gringos waiting for properties is
longer than the available supply. It is sad. What will happen is the same identical
thing that happened to San Miguel de Allende. The culture will be transformed
by most rich monolingual Gringos who cannot, because they want not, to learn
Spanish.
The wife and I are looking for a place where Gringos would fear to tread as
a new home.
It ought to be very interesting.
by Douglas Bower
Article Source: EzineArticles.com | I’ve written quite a bit about The Ugly American Syndrome. In my columns,
print and online magazines, and in every book I’ve written, I’ve
mentioned this topic. I get a lot of mail from readers, either praising and agreeing
with me or chiding and condemning me.
As of today, I think I will begin cutting Americans some slack, especially
American expats in Mexico, regarding The Ugly American Syndrome. My visit to
the bank today convinced me that maybe I’ve been too harsh and need to
lighten up a bit. I think my readers (the chiders and condemners) in San Miguel
de Allende might breathe a collective sigh of relief over this announcement.
What happened is something that should not have surprised or shocked me. I
guess I simply have reached the end of my expat rope—at least today. When
I get my quarterly royalty checks from my book publishers, I take them to my
Mexican bank and deposit them. Because they are drawn on a foreign account in
the States, there is understandably a hold on these checks.
I get that and it doesn’t bother me one bit.
But here is what I’ve been told ever since I began depositing royalty
checks into this account:
“There will be a two-week hold on this check.”
At the end of two weeks, the wife and I go off to the ATM to check the balance
and the funds are not there. We go back to the bank. The bank officer tells us:
“Oh, there is always a three-week hold on foreign checks.”
We wait another week, go to the ATM, and the funds aren’t there. So,
we go again to the bank.
“Oh, there is a 22-day hold on all foreign checks.”
The next day, we go to the ATM and the funds are not there. We go into the
bank:
“There must be some mistake. There is always a 25-day hold on all foreign
checks.”
We wait three more days and go to the ATM to check things out. There are no
funds. We drag ourselves into the bank with the wife trying to talk me out of
murdering someone.
“Oh my, my! There is always a 30-day hold on all foreign checks.”
In Mexico, as I have written before, nothing, and I mean absolutely nothing,
is as it seems. Nothing will work with any degree of logic or reason known to
the rest of the world. Here two weeks can mean pretty much any amount of time.
In Guanajuato, Mexico, two weeks means many things. It can mean three weeks,
twenty-two days, twenty-five days, or thirty days. And let me tell you, each
bank employee will tell you something different each time you make a deposit.
They will look you straight in the eye and tell you whatever comes to their minds,
whether it is the truth or not.
What I do not get is just why no bank employee knows how anything works! This
brings me to a conversation with an American expat who has lived in Mexico much
longer than I have. She said once that what Mexico needs is a Business Manager.
These people need a Business Manager in everything that has to do with anything
to show them how things work. This is because in all aspects of life, at least
in Guanajuato, no one who does anything that has to do with something knows just
how it is suppose to work.
Trying to do banking in Guanajuato is not the only thing that doesn’t
work. I would love to tell you that this is so but I would be lying.
Once we tried going to the movies. The theater manager was at a party and
was having too good of a time to show up with the keys to the box office to sell
tickets. She sent word that someone was welcome to come and get the keys and
sell tickets, otherwise we would all have to wait.
Can you begin to imagine what would have happened in America when this movie
theater manager finally showed up? She or he would have been lynched by the crowd.
Here is the really bad thing. This sort of “Qué Será,
Será, whatever will be, will be…” service is vastly tolerated
all over this country. The Mexican nationals, at least from my observation, seem
to tolerate a level of service from providers that Americans and Europeans would
not tolerate for a second!
Only those who have spent time internationally seem to be perturbed by those
of their fellow countrymen who settle for or offer this, “The future’s
not ours to see, Qué Será, Será…” service.
Well, the next time I see some American tourist or expat acting out The Ugly
American Syndrome, I am going to march up to them, pat them on the back, and
tell them, “I feel your pain, Bubba!”
by Douglas Bower
Article Source: EzineArticles.com | If you read guidebooks or travel articles about México, you will read
that Mexicans are wonderfully accommodating, friendly, warm, and generous to
strangers. You will be given the impression these people are the “Salt
of the Earth” and maybe even virtually Saints. You will be told things
like, “Mexicans are helpful to a fault” and “they will be so
patient with you trying to learn Spanish.” While this might be true, I
have, of late, begun to doubt the multitude of clichés that pour forth
from all the guidebook and article sources about Mexico.
About 18 months into our expatriation experiment, my wife and I began to wonder
what was going on in the heartland of Mexico. The clichés we had read
in our pre-expat research were, frankly, beginning to fall apart. The longer
we lived here, the more we were beginning to see things that the guidebooks gushed
about Mexican’s congeniality weren’t necessarily true. Something
wasn’t adding up.
Guanajuato is about as much in the middle of the country as it gets. It is
truly the heartland of Mexico. Here life is uber-provincial. The dictionary defines
provincial as, “a person of local or restricted interests or outlook; a
person lacking urban polish or refinement.” I began hearing this uber-provincial
stuff more and more as the years went by. I heard this from not only American,
German, and Canadian expatriates but also from Mexicans who grew up in other
parts of Mexico and who, for one reason or another, ended up in Guanajuato.
Certain things begin to happen to us that caused us to begin asking questions.
After all, we were still very fresh and green expats who didn’t know much.
But we began to ask about this or that once things started happening.
I guess it was the first time I was knocked into the street by a Mexican and
subsequently hit by a bus that caused me to wonder what was going on. The second
time was really what got me to wondering. I was pushed off the sidewalk not once
but twice into the path of an oncoming bus and was struck. Not once did anyone
stop to see if I was all right. The pushers never bothered to utter one word
to me. My wife has also been pushed and shoved off sidewalks. I have a 70-year-old
American gringa pal who was pushed into the path of a taxi and was nailed.
One just has to ask what is happening in Guanajuato, Mexico.
I wish I could tell you.
What I began to see long ago was that the Guanajuatenses on the street are
practically running to get somewhere but never arrive on time for anything. Although
all of Latin American (and Italy) is famous for how they regard time differently
than the rest of the world, this has slowly been changing in the more metropolitan
areas of Mexico. More and more, Mexicans are beginning to forsake their traditional
understanding of what it means to be on time for anything. Not so in Guanajuato.
It is just as traditional here as it has been for centuries. Some say the heartland
of Mexico is “stuck in the past.”
But, what you have are Guanajuatenses running at the speed of light and, I
can assure you, to get nowhere fast. They are absolutely not trying to get somewhere
on time. It is a cultural affectation here in Guanajuato. They will never, ever
arrive on time for anything. This is a total mystery in and of itself. Why are
they running? They never arrive on time for anything so what’s the rush?
So, you may logically ask, why are they running down the sidewalk knocking
gringos into the gutter? I wish I could tell you, but I can’t.
I have asked Mexicans because I have the facility in the language to do so.
Most of those I have questioned are not from Guanajuato originally. They are
here for a job, marriage, or whatever, and have been transplanted from other
regions of Mexico.
To my amazement, these Guanajuato transplants have told me that they view
the people of Guanajuato as some of the rudest, most ill educated, and most ill
reared Mexicans in the country. I have gotten emails from Mexicans and as well
as been told in face-to-face interviews that they regard Guanajuatenses Mexicans
as anti-social. This is amazing. These are Mexicans from other regions talking
about their fellow Mexicans. It very much reminds me of those from the Midwest
and western parts of America talking about New York.
Now, I have to take the word of those who tell me this since the only place
I’ve ever lived in this country is Guanajuato. But, I am beginning to take
their word to heart and believe what they say, hook, line, and sinker. Our experience
bears out what our Extra-Guanajuatenses have told us.
Once, I got an email from a Mexican lady in Puerto Vallarta. She had read
some of my articles and columns but poo-poo’ed me as a crazy gringo. Then,
she and another Mexican girlfriend came traveling through Guanajuato. She said
she couldn’t wait to email me and tell me how many times she was shoved
off the sidewalk and pushed away from the cashier’s counter in stores.
Just this morning, my wife was in line to buy some very delicious tamales.
She placed her order and paid the guy. Before the seller could get out of his
mouth, “One moment while I get your food” a Mexican lady, one of
our congenial, warm, and kind Guanajuatenses, elbowed my wife out of line and
cut in front of her. The seller had to be someone from some other part of Mexico
because he noticed what happened and told this woman to get in line.
A month ago, some college student who thought it was appropriate to lay hands
on me and shove me a good one shoved me out of the way in a pharmacy! I wish
I could tell you that these are all isolated incidents but I would be lying.
The guy pushed me as though I was a piece of furniture that was in his way.
The mystery is how Mexicans are supposed to be such kind, generous, and accommodating
people to foreigners while in Guanajuato, you are just liable to be pushed into
the path of an oncoming bus going at the speed of light. How…how…how
is this so?
The other day, we were exiting the post office when we saw one Mexican do
something to another Mexican. This kid, in his early twenties, walked by a lady
who had set her heavy bolsa (a large shopping bag) on the sidewalk while waiting
for a cab. This young man kicked the bolsa into the street. It seemed unintentional.
He looked briefly and then walked off. The lady took off after him. While she
was trying to corral him, a bus came by and squashed her bolsa and all its contents
to smithereens.
My wife once had to catch an elderly lady who was shoved off a 12-inch-high
sidewalk by two girls who seemed not to care a wit that they almost killed one
of their fellow countrywomen.
Something else that goes on in stores all over the city—another mystery--is
something that would get Guanajuatenses killed in America. When you go to meat
counter or any place with a counter, Guanajuatenses will shove you out of the
way to bark their orders to the hired help, even though the employee was already
waiting on you. Don’t miss the picture here. There you are. You’ve
just given your order to the butcher for a kilo of hotdogs when some Señora
puts her hands on you (or elbows you) and knocks you into the middle of next
week so she can be at the front of the line.
This goes on all the time, without fail, day and night—and there’s
nothing you can do about it!
NOTHING!
Why they do it I cannot tell you. We have asked and are told that the people
of Guanajuato are “malcriados” and “maleducadas” …this
means ill-raised and badly-educated.
I think the mystery is how did they earn the warm and inviting reputation
that you read in all the guidebooks? They certainly could not have meant the
heartland of Mexico, especially not Guanajuato!
Perhaps it’s the other regions about which the guidebooks have been
talking.
I do not know!
by Douglas Bower
Article Source: EzineArticles.com | |