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San Miguel de Allende -- Today is Wednesday, February 08, 2012 11:41 at our loyal server in the USAIn central Mexico, San Miguel de Allende is virtually the only place where
you will find English spoken so massively that you will not have to learn how
to say two words in this beautiful language. If the rest of central Mexico looks
interesting then you are going to have to get bilingual and learn to speak Spanish.
What happened in San Miguel is beginning to happen where my wife and I have
lived since 2003. Gentrification is happening at such a high rate of speed that
I see Guanajuato turning into an other San Miguel in less than five years. The
locals are beginning to sense the handwriting on the wall and are scrambling
to hire Mexicans that are bilingual to accommodate the Americans and other English
only speakers who are moving into Guanajuato.
This is how it began in San Miguel de Allende. When the word got out that
it was cheap to live in beautiful San Miguel de Allende, the Americans swarmed
in like locusts. They ran up the prices of everything you can imagine. And soon,
the locals became bilingual. They had to in order to offer their services to
the Gringo population that now numbers in the tens of thousands. That’s
why you can go to San Miguel and live perfectly well (that is if you are Bill
Gates rich) and never have a problem with the language.
That’s happening now in Guanajuato.
There are real estate agencies that are scrambling to hire bilinguals. There
is also a fellow, with a website, who will, for a price, negotiate anything and
everything for you since he is bilingual. If you do not speak a word of Spanish
(a tragedy) and want to move to Guanajuato (an even bigger tragedy) then this
guy is your man and he will take care of all of your Spanish needs.
I list him for you as a matter of courtesy. I do not know him.
All I know is that he offers this service:
Want to Buy a House in Guanajuato City?
Don’t have any ideas how to approach and deal directly with Mexican
People?
Afraid of being "abused" because you are not familiar with Mexican
and Guanajuato Business Culture, Laws, Locations, Neighborhoods, and Language?
Don't worry!, we have the solution for you by offering:
REAL ESTATE CONSULTANCY
(We are NOT a Real Estate Agency, We work FOR You) Our Services Include:
· Arrangement of appointments, directly with Owners.
· Visits to the properties.
· Simultaneous Interview Translation (English to Spanish and Spanish
to English). You can ask about anything that concerns you.
· Assessment on area or neighborhood growth potential, accessibility,
communications and services. · Assistance in value assessment.
· Price Negotiation assistance and advice.
· Information concerning repair and remodel.
· Advise on Security and Safety issues in relation to locations.
· Services for coordinating purchase and the legal process.
Price:
Free initial interview (10 to 15 minutes). $15 US Dollars per hour, a partial
hour counts as an hour, cut off on a daily basis. $15 US Dollars per week to
local phone calling to coordinate appointments and search properties. Taxi fees
when necessary. (From $3 to $6 US Dollars one way trip).
Payments must be made on Fridays.
We accept U.S. Dollars, Euros and Travelers Checks, no personal checks nor
credit cards.
Special rates apply for written translation and other services, please ask.
Contact: Hugo Rodriguez. / Phone: 73 22383 (Within Guanajuato City) 011 52
473 73 22383 (From The U.S. & Canada) (+) 52 473 73 22383 (From Other Countries)
English, French and Spanish Spoken.
We accept U.S. Dollars, Euros and Travelers Checks, no personal Checks nor
Credit Cards.
I imagine more and more of these services coming up in the weeks and months
ahead. I was told recently that the list of gringos waiting for properties is
longer than the available supply. It is sad. What will happen is the same identical
thing that happened to San Miguel de Allende. The culture will be transformed
by most rich monolingual Gringos who cannot, because they want not, to learn
Spanish.
The wife and I are looking for a place where Gringos would fear to tread as
a new home.
It ought to be very interesting.
by Douglas Bower
Article Source: EzineArticles.com | from MexicoDiscovered.com which also has a Discover Mexico magazine.
San Miguel de Allende and Pozos
Mexico's most cultured retirement haven - and most popular artistic destination, was declared a Mexican national Monument in 1926. This meant that while other towns pulled down heritage buildings and replaced them with glass and steel boxes San Miguel was off-limits to that form of modernization. Without this single gesture, San Miguel may have become just another slightly decaying backwater - that time and the major highways left behind - instead of the architecturally pristine city we love.
But what a National Monument! Its proximity to the nearby silver cities of the Bajio meant that by the eighteenth century it was an important way station en route to Mexico City and an agriculture centre supplying the needs of the burgeoning city of Guanajuato. Spaniards, wealthy from extracting silver, built magnificent palaces here and then enhanced their already enormous fortunes farming the surrounding countryside through huge estates with equally magnificent haciendas as their centrepiece. Further enhancing the architectural splendour are ornate churches and oratorios that owe their existence to the patronage of these wealthy patrons - and the sweat and slave-like servitude of indigenous Indians. Despite the fact that many of the palaces and haciendas were gutted and plundered during the Mexican Revolution in the second decade of the last century, the basic structures were still extant in 1926.
It was this slightly scarred and somewhat neglected eighteenth century architectural masterpiece that so enamoured the few foreigners who ventured through here in the late 1920's and early 1930's. Set in the pastoral rolling hills of the Bajio, watered by natural springs, enjoying a spring like climate all year and suffused with a light beloved by artists, how could they resist. One such person was American, Sterling Dickinson who, recognized the possibilities, and founded the now internationally renowned Instituto Allende in 1938 as a place of study for fellow ex patriots. This was the second pivotal action that ensured San Miguel de Allende's future for, with the end of World War II came the United States GI Bill that supplied education grants to returning servicemen. These GIs soon discovered their limited funds went farther in San Miguel and the Institute thrived. A vibrant artistic and cultural society grew up around a still small but permanent expatriate community that serviced their needs. Many of these visiting students never left, instead they became the kernel of a growing artistic community that, generations later, continues to be supplemented by new infusions of artistic talent that also fall in love with San Miguel's special "light". At the same time, many of the wealthy tourists originally attracted by the town's reputation, returned to reside here on a permanent or semi-permanent basis. Attracted by this charming and safe city with a perfect climate they, in turn, became the basis of the well-heeled semi retirement community that San Miguel is today. At the same time other less wealthy (or merely more ambitious) visitors saw the opportunities afforded by this influx and opened even more businesses to serve this expanding tourist and residential market. These North Americans had the desire and the funds to restore the many badly neglected buildings - in accordance with the strict 1926 guidelines - that, today, the town is effectively an eighteenth century wonder with electricity and running water!
Well, not quite. The ubiquitous internal combustion engine knows no limits and San Miguel is no exception. Her narrow, winding and often very steep cobblestone streets can soon get jammed with noisy diesel spewing trucks and buses as well as the latest gas guzzling SUVs. Ironically perhaps it is the modern SUV that is the most appropriate vehicle to ply the uneven 200 year old cobblestone streets. Certainly, its 4 wheel drive capability comes in handy when the summer rains hit and the more steeply sloped streets become slick and traction becomes your number one priority. If it isn't, you will soon get used to walking that little bit extra just to avoid the problem of finding that most rare of things in downtown San Miguel - a parking spot.
The relationship between the expatriate and Mexican communities is remarkably cordial. One even gets the impression there is only one community. This is born of the fact that the two live side-by-side and both benefit from the other despite the fact that (with the notable exception of a comparatively small number of middle and upper class Mexicans) most expatriates are wealthier than their neighbours. Poverty and crime do exist in the peripheral Mexican areas of town but a strong tradition of volunteer work within the expatriate community has ameliorated many of the resentments such an "invading army" of privileged foreigners could have engendered. Certainly, San Miguel attracts relatively wealthy people, but they don't flaunt it. That is not what San Miguel is about. Any such wealth is generally hidden behind the enclosed walls and high gates of the town - for this is a town that values and encourages cultural and social endeavours above overt displays of wealth.
Members of the expatriate community who operate businesses here is one reason the town works so well. They have created jobs and so generated a higher standard of living and quality of life for all San Miguel residents. I was fortunate to meet a number of them - mainly in the real estate and hospitality fields - and was struck by the fact that many of them put as much time and energy into their social and charitable concerns as they did into their commercial pursuits. Dotty Vidargas of Vidargas Real Estate, for example, has lived in San Miguel for 40 years and is one of the driving forces restoring the nearby Santuario at Atotonilco. In contrast, Lane Simmons at Remax Colonial Real Estate became so involved with helping the town's poorer families and abused children that he and his wife have legally adopted two of the children he "rescued". Interestingly, most of San Miguel's realty companies are long established concerns. They know the San Miguel housing market inside out. As part of San Miguel society for decades they are able to impart to potential purchasers that they are buying into a community not just a home.
But whether they are house-hunting or just passing through, visitors need somewhere to stay. On the face of it that should not be a problem in San Miguel where the number of hotels, inns and B & Bs must exceed that of any town of comparable size in Mexico. Most, however, are small - with as few as 3 rooms - so don't be too confident you'll find a room without booking ahead! Old favourites in the deluxe class, such as the Casa de Sierra Nevada and la Puertecita must now compete with the intimate luxury of small exclusive enclaves such as Casa Quetzal among many where American amenities meet the best of Mexican design and influence, while less expensive old time landmark hotels such as the Mansion del Bosque remain perennial favourites.
Some San Miguelites have "discovered" a new San Miguel at Mineral de Pozos just 45 minutes from San Miguel. Popularly called Pozos it is a protected old silver mining town where many of its old mansions are being lovingly restored. In the main square are two hotels adjoining one another. The Casa Montana is the more recent addition but, even newer is the recently opened Real de Minas B&B. Both are American owned and are just two of the gringo vanguard already settled with established businesses here. Many more will come! | I’ve written quite a bit about The Ugly American Syndrome. In my columns,
print and online magazines, and in every book I’ve written, I’ve
mentioned this topic. I get a lot of mail from readers, either praising and agreeing
with me or chiding and condemning me.
As of today, I think I will begin cutting Americans some slack, especially
American expats in Mexico, regarding The Ugly American Syndrome. My visit to
the bank today convinced me that maybe I’ve been too harsh and need to
lighten up a bit. I think my readers (the chiders and condemners) in San Miguel
de Allende might breathe a collective sigh of relief over this announcement.
What happened is something that should not have surprised or shocked me. I
guess I simply have reached the end of my expat rope—at least today. When
I get my quarterly royalty checks from my book publishers, I take them to my
Mexican bank and deposit them. Because they are drawn on a foreign account in
the States, there is understandably a hold on these checks.
I get that and it doesn’t bother me one bit.
But here is what I’ve been told ever since I began depositing royalty
checks into this account:
“There will be a two-week hold on this check.”
At the end of two weeks, the wife and I go off to the ATM to check the balance
and the funds are not there. We go back to the bank. The bank officer tells us:
“Oh, there is always a three-week hold on foreign checks.”
We wait another week, go to the ATM, and the funds aren’t there. So,
we go again to the bank.
“Oh, there is a 22-day hold on all foreign checks.”
The next day, we go to the ATM and the funds are not there. We go into the
bank:
“There must be some mistake. There is always a 25-day hold on all foreign
checks.”
We wait three more days and go to the ATM to check things out. There are no
funds. We drag ourselves into the bank with the wife trying to talk me out of
murdering someone.
“Oh my, my! There is always a 30-day hold on all foreign checks.”
In Mexico, as I have written before, nothing, and I mean absolutely nothing,
is as it seems. Nothing will work with any degree of logic or reason known to
the rest of the world. Here two weeks can mean pretty much any amount of time.
In Guanajuato, Mexico, two weeks means many things. It can mean three weeks,
twenty-two days, twenty-five days, or thirty days. And let me tell you, each
bank employee will tell you something different each time you make a deposit.
They will look you straight in the eye and tell you whatever comes to their minds,
whether it is the truth or not.
What I do not get is just why no bank employee knows how anything works! This
brings me to a conversation with an American expat who has lived in Mexico much
longer than I have. She said once that what Mexico needs is a Business Manager.
These people need a Business Manager in everything that has to do with anything
to show them how things work. This is because in all aspects of life, at least
in Guanajuato, no one who does anything that has to do with something knows just
how it is suppose to work.
Trying to do banking in Guanajuato is not the only thing that doesn’t
work. I would love to tell you that this is so but I would be lying.
Once we tried going to the movies. The theater manager was at a party and
was having too good of a time to show up with the keys to the box office to sell
tickets. She sent word that someone was welcome to come and get the keys and
sell tickets, otherwise we would all have to wait.
Can you begin to imagine what would have happened in America when this movie
theater manager finally showed up? She or he would have been lynched by the crowd.
Here is the really bad thing. This sort of “Qué Será,
Será, whatever will be, will be…” service is vastly tolerated
all over this country. The Mexican nationals, at least from my observation, seem
to tolerate a level of service from providers that Americans and Europeans would
not tolerate for a second!
Only those who have spent time internationally seem to be perturbed by those
of their fellow countrymen who settle for or offer this, “The future’s
not ours to see, Qué Será, Será…” service.
Well, the next time I see some American tourist or expat acting out The Ugly
American Syndrome, I am going to march up to them, pat them on the back, and
tell them, “I feel your pain, Bubba!”
by Douglas Bower
Article Source: EzineArticles.com | I thought I would write a follow-up to my column, “Move Over San Miguel
de Allende Here I Come”, since this is the only thing, writing, that prevents
from committing murderous acts of rage (Just Joking!) As you recall from the
previous column, I wrote how I tried to deposit a royalty check from my publisher
and was told the check would clear on four different dates. We were shown, last
week, on their computer screen that the funds would be available on the 18th
of December.
Well, today is the 18th. We marched down to the bank and, of course, in the
truest sense of TMO (Typical Mexican Operation) the funds were not available.
We went into the bank so I could seize a bank officer and choke him (just kidding!).
No, we talked to this guy who thought it cute to mumble at us. He actually told
us something entirely new.
He said that “the 18th” did not really mean “the 18th” but
it meant sometime after 6 p.m. on the 18th but before mid-night on the 18th and…and…maybe
even the 19th.
CAN YOU BELIEVE THIS?
This my dear readers is what we anal-retentive Americans (and “strung-tighter-than-piano
wire Germans”) have to deal with when we become expatriates living in Mexico.
It would seem, and I could be wrong, that Mexican banks just make up stuff as
they go along. There are no policy manuals, procedural steps, no rules, just
the “fly-by-the-seat-of-your-pants” way of doing things.
“Qué Será, Será: What ever will be, will be. The
future’s not ours to see. Qué Será, Será.”
This is exactly how things are done in central México. I have to tell
you though, those from other regions of the country are as dumbfounded as I am.
They tell me that this region of Mexico is “stuck in time and history.” They
are provincial to the point of having been throw into a time loop and cannot
escape the temporal hole they’ve been in since the middle ages. Time forgot
central Mexico and no one seems to really care to crawl out of this dimensional
morass in which they are quagmired.
What are we going to do?
I do not know. But, we are looking to other areas of Mexico that may not be
like living in a Latino Twilight Zone.
My fellow American expat said this:
“That what Mexico needs is a Business Manager. These people need a Business
Manager in everything that has to do with anything to show them how things work.
This is because in all aspects of life, at least in Guanajuato, no one who does
anything that has to do with something knows just how it is suppose to work.”
She has no idea what truth she spoke!
by Douglas Bower
Article Source: EzineArticles.com | The following excerpt is by the legendary Stirling Dickinson, who is probably the most important Gringo to ever make an impact on the development of San Miguel de Allende. From Brandeburgh Press, November 1969.
In 1542, the missionary Fray Juan de San Miguel established a tiny settlement known as San Miguel Viejo. It was a frontier outpost constantly threatened by hostile Indians. Spanish soldiers and families of Spanish settlers came and the new hamlet was moved to the slope of Moctezuma Hill where fresh springs provided water. Soon, a royal charter was created for the town known as San Miguel El Grande. For more than two and one half centuries, San Miguel thrived under the repressive but orderly rule of Spain, as it was a link on the silver route to Mexico City. In 1810 revolution flared, led by Captain Ignacio Allende of San Miguel and Father Miguel Hidalgo of the nearby town of Dolores. For eleven years the revolution was fought. Finally, after a Mexican victory over the Spanish, the town was renamed San Miguel de Allende, honoring Don Ignacio Allende, its greatest son and martyr to freedom.
Travel writers have often called San Miguel "the prettiest town in Mexico". That remark has become a cliche. Yet, like all cliches, it has basis in fact. San Miguel is the most charming of all Mexican towns. Today, its chief fame is as an art center and home to hundreds of foreign residents, not artistic themselves, but attracted by the atmosphere the arts create. Most of these residents are fiercely partisan about their community, quickly pointing out that although many tourists visit, its real life goes on quietly but busily behind the unrevealing walls of its homes and gardens. A stranger who harps on the defects of living here is likely to be met with a cold stare and a classic retort. "Of course, San Miguel is not perfect -- it is merely heaven."
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