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San Miguel de Allende -- Today is Sunday, August 01, 2010 01:55 at our loyal server in the USAAnother interesting perspective from Mexonline
Located 60 kilometers north of Queretaro, the colonial gem of San Miguel de Allende, population 80,000, is situated on a hillside facing the Laja River and the distant Guanajuato Mountains. Declared a national monument in 1926, San Miguel is a picturesque city of arched colonial mansions, flower-filled patios, and winding, terraced cobblestone streets. It is particularly beautiful in March, when flowering jacaranda trees are in bloom. Roof top views and gardens of this colonial city It is Mexico's most celebrated artists' community, and has been luring artistically-inclined Mexicans and foreigners (about 3,500 Americans and Canadians) for decades.
Instituto Allende, founded in 1951, is an intellectual center and arts academy of renown. There are also many other institutes focusing on arts, literature, and language. Despite this Anglo invasion, San Miguel is very Mexican village. The city boasts a thriving cultural and entertainment scene. Many events (plays, lectures, art classes) are in English.
The renowned San Miguel Music Festival (featuring Mexican and international artists) happens each December. A city with six patron saints and dozens of churches, San Miguel hosts a full calendar of religious festivals throughout the year. The town's biggest bash is San Miguel Arcángel, a celebration honoring the town's chief patron saint. The event includes a running of bulls through city streets, traditional dancers, and lots of merriment. It is held each September 29th.
El Jardin, the city's main plaza (zocalo) is a great starting spot. You can't miss the city's landmark, La Parroquia, the pink, gothic church on the main plaza. La Parroquia on the main plaza is as recognizable an icon for San Miguel as the Eiffel Tower is for Paris. It is one of a few features that distinguish San Miguel from the state's other colonial city attraction, Guanajuato.
For shopping, the city boasts some of Mexico's best craft shops and fine art boutiques. Variety of merchandise is exceptional, as is the workmanship. Its dining scene is top notch. Nouvelle Mexican cuisine, plus a diverse assortment of international dining options have given San Miguel a reputation for having the best "small town" dining in Mexico.
Most of San Miguel's sightseeing highlights are clustered around the compact downtown area. This is a wonderful city for aimless wandering along its narrow cobbled lanes. One of the best city views is from the town's Mirador, located on a hill to the southeast of the city center. At the foot of the hill is El Chorro, which spouts a natural spring where the city's women come to do laundry. Further along is Parque Juárez, a shady green belt with ponds, fountains, and benches. If you are looking for an authentic Mexican town with international flair, centuries old history, and a relaxing almost peaceful feeling, San Miguel de Allende is the vacation (or retirement spot) for you. | I’ve written quite a bit about The Ugly American Syndrome. In my columns,
print and online magazines, and in every book I’ve written, I’ve
mentioned this topic. I get a lot of mail from readers, either praising and agreeing
with me or chiding and condemning me.
As of today, I think I will begin cutting Americans some slack, especially
American expats in Mexico, regarding The Ugly American Syndrome. My visit to
the bank today convinced me that maybe I’ve been too harsh and need to
lighten up a bit. I think my readers (the chiders and condemners) in San Miguel
de Allende might breathe a collective sigh of relief over this announcement.
What happened is something that should not have surprised or shocked me. I
guess I simply have reached the end of my expat rope—at least today. When
I get my quarterly royalty checks from my book publishers, I take them to my
Mexican bank and deposit them. Because they are drawn on a foreign account in
the States, there is understandably a hold on these checks.
I get that and it doesn’t bother me one bit.
But here is what I’ve been told ever since I began depositing royalty
checks into this account:
“There will be a two-week hold on this check.”
At the end of two weeks, the wife and I go off to the ATM to check the balance
and the funds are not there. We go back to the bank. The bank officer tells us:
“Oh, there is always a three-week hold on foreign checks.”
We wait another week, go to the ATM, and the funds aren’t there. So,
we go again to the bank.
“Oh, there is a 22-day hold on all foreign checks.”
The next day, we go to the ATM and the funds are not there. We go into the
bank:
“There must be some mistake. There is always a 25-day hold on all foreign
checks.”
We wait three more days and go to the ATM to check things out. There are no
funds. We drag ourselves into the bank with the wife trying to talk me out of
murdering someone.
“Oh my, my! There is always a 30-day hold on all foreign checks.”
In Mexico, as I have written before, nothing, and I mean absolutely nothing,
is as it seems. Nothing will work with any degree of logic or reason known to
the rest of the world. Here two weeks can mean pretty much any amount of time.
In Guanajuato, Mexico, two weeks means many things. It can mean three weeks,
twenty-two days, twenty-five days, or thirty days. And let me tell you, each
bank employee will tell you something different each time you make a deposit.
They will look you straight in the eye and tell you whatever comes to their minds,
whether it is the truth or not.
What I do not get is just why no bank employee knows how anything works! This
brings me to a conversation with an American expat who has lived in Mexico much
longer than I have. She said once that what Mexico needs is a Business Manager.
These people need a Business Manager in everything that has to do with anything
to show them how things work. This is because in all aspects of life, at least
in Guanajuato, no one who does anything that has to do with something knows just
how it is suppose to work.
Trying to do banking in Guanajuato is not the only thing that doesn’t
work. I would love to tell you that this is so but I would be lying.
Once we tried going to the movies. The theater manager was at a party and
was having too good of a time to show up with the keys to the box office to sell
tickets. She sent word that someone was welcome to come and get the keys and
sell tickets, otherwise we would all have to wait.
Can you begin to imagine what would have happened in America when this movie
theater manager finally showed up? She or he would have been lynched by the crowd.
Here is the really bad thing. This sort of “Qué Será,
Será, whatever will be, will be…” service is vastly tolerated
all over this country. The Mexican nationals, at least from my observation, seem
to tolerate a level of service from providers that Americans and Europeans would
not tolerate for a second!
Only those who have spent time internationally seem to be perturbed by those
of their fellow countrymen who settle for or offer this, “The future’s
not ours to see, Qué Será, Será…” service.
Well, the next time I see some American tourist or expat acting out The Ugly
American Syndrome, I am going to march up to them, pat them on the back, and
tell them, “I feel your pain, Bubba!”
by Douglas Bower
Article Source: EzineArticles.com |
Major Regulatory Agencies for the State of Guanajuato with names of Officials
where indicated |
| Descripción |
| Presidencia
Municipal de San Miguel de Allende
José Jesús Correa Ramírez |
Contraloria
Municipal
José Antonio López Ortíz
|
Desarrollo
Integral de la Familia ( DIF ) Municipal
Gabriela Bribiesca Rocha
|
Dirección
de Desarrollo Social y Humano
José Luis Téllez Santana
|
Subdirección
de Desarrollo Rural y Agropecuario
Juan Rodríguez Vázquez
|
Subdirección
de Desarrollo Social y Humano
Mario Carballo Carlva
|
Dirección
de Desarrollo Urbano y Ordenamiento Territorial
Angel Gastelum Cadena
|
Coordinación
de Administración Urbana y Regulación de Usos de Suelo
Francisco Javier Villegas Sánchez
|
Ventanilla
de Licencias y Permisos de Construcción
Alberto Cervantes Matehuala
|
Coordinación
de Conservación del Patrimonio Histórico y Cultural
desconocido o ya no ocupado
|
Auxiliar
Centro Histórico
Julio César Grimaldi Zuñiga
|
Coordinación
de Planeación Estratégica y Ordenamiento Territorial
Jesús Téllez Molina
|
Coordinación
Técnica
Zeferino Gutiérrez Grimaldi
|
Estudios
y Proyectos de Equipamiento Imagen e Infraestructura
Jesús Tellez Molina
|
Coordinación
de Regulación de Asentamientos Humanos Irregulares, Ejidales Predios Agricolas
y Ganade
Javier Rángel Arellano
|
Auxiliar
de Asentamientos Humanos
Juan Manuel Ramírez Regoytia
|
Subdirección
de Desarrollo Urbano
Francisco Javier Villegas Sánchez
|
Dirección
de Educación y Cultura
Verónica Agundis Estrada
|
Casa de la
Cultura
Myrna Verónica Salinas Guerrero
|
Departamento
de Educación
Jesús Ledesma Hernández
|
Dirección
de Medio Ambiente y Ecología
Donald Wayne Patterson
|
Coordinación
de Gestión Ambiental
Erick Morales Montes
|
Administrator
de Panteones
desconocido o ya no ocupado
|
Encargado
de Parques y Panteones
desconocido o ya no ocupado
|
Coordinación
de la Prevención y Control de la Contaminación
Ana Karina Yael Villa Ayala
|
Coordinación
de Normativa Ambiental
Blas Huerta Carrillo
|
Encargado
de Promoción Ambiental
desconocido o ya no ocupado
|
Encargado
de la Estación de Transferencia
desconocido o ya no ocupado
|
Dirección
de Obras Públicas Municipales
Jorge Zavala Ramírez
|
Coordinación
de Maquinaria Pesada
Jorge Montes González
|
Coordinador
Administrativo A
José Martín Rico
|
Subdirección
de Obras Públicas Municipales
Francisco Peralta Elizondo
|
Coodinación
de Construcción y Supervición
desconocido o ya no ocupado
|
Jefe de Brigada
Topografíca
desconocido o ya no ocupado
|
Jefe de Precios
Unitarios
desconocido o ya no ocupado
|
Coordinación
Administrativa
desconocido o ya no ocupado
|
Jefe de Expedientes
Técnicos
desconocido o ya no ocupado
|
Jefe de Solventación
de Observaciones
desconocido o ya no ocupado
|
Coordinación
de Maquinaría Pesada
desconocido o ya no ocupado
|
Subdirección
Operativa
Jorge Flores
|
Dirección
de Seguridad Pública Municipal
Daniel Adrián Trujillo García
|
Subdirección
Academica
Hugo Fabián Barrón Martínez
|
Subdirección
Administrativa
Juan Carlos Godínez Arzola
|
Subdirección
Operativa
José Luís Olguín Gómez
|
Dirección
de Servicios Públicos Municipales
Luis Francisco López Chávez
|
Administración
del Restro Municipal
Eduardo Manuel Villegas Juárez
|
Alumbrado
Público
Luís Felipe Luna Morales
|
Departamento
de Limpia
José Gilberto M. González Valero
|
Mercados
y Comercio
Ángel Martín Saavedra
|
Subdirección
de Servicios Públicos Municipales
desconocido o ya no ocupado
|
Administración
del Rastro Municipal
desconocido o ya no ocupado
|
Alumbrado
Público
Emisael Espinosa
|
Jefatura
de Limpia
desconocido o ya no ocupado
|
Mercados
y Comercio
desconocido o ya no ocupado
|
Dirección
de Transito y Transporte Municipal
José Samuel Daniel Mercadillo Escobedo
|
Comandante
Administrativo
Roberto Prado Baeza
|
Comandante
Operativo
José Luís García Osornio
|
Jefe de Transporte
Municipal
Jorge Salas Luna
|
Juridico
de Transito y Transporte
Juan Víctor Manuel González Bautista
|
Dirección
de Turismo, Fomento Económico y Relaciones Internacionales
Francisco Peyret García
|
Atención
a Inversionistas y Mejora Regulatoria
Oscar Baltazar Arteaga Gil
|
Coordinación
de Promoción de Inversiones y Gobierno Integral
Julián Roberto Villela Ríos
|
Coordinación
de Relaciones Internacionales
Fabiola García Lasierna
|
Enlace de
Empleo y Capacitación
Ma. Auxilio Ángeles Olalde
|
Enlace Institucional
y Promoción Productiva
Tanía Noriz Martínez
|
Instituto
Municipal de la Mujer
Araceli Martínez Sánchez
|
Oficialia
Mayor Administrativa
José Alfredo Orduña Rodríguez
|
Departamento
de Informática
Leopoldo Barcenas Hernández
|
Pensión Municipal
Jorge Armando Ramírez Capitán
|
Recursos
Humanos
Cirila Margaíz Ramírez
|
Recursos
Materiales
Laura Valadez Sánchez
|
Protección
Civil
José Alan Álvarez Flores
|
Coordinación
Municipal de Desastres
Ramiro Arroyo Guerrero
|
Secretaría
del H. Ayuntamiento
Christopher Thomas Finkelstein Franyuti
|
Departamento
de Fiscalización y Control Municipal
Rafael Torres Sánchez
|
Departamento
de Jurídico
José Ramón Correa González
|
Secretaría
Particular
Tomas Federico Ramírez
|
Sistema de
Agua Potable y Alcantarillado de San Miguel de Allende
Alfonso Sautto
|
Tesorería
Municipal
José Eduardo Adrián Soria Cruz
|
Departamento
de Catastro
Gustavo Arellano Arroyo
|
Departamento
de Egresos
Mónica Barajas
|
Departamento
de Ingresos
Jorge López Páez
|
Departamento
de Predial
Saúl Bautista Espinosa
|
Programas
Especiales
José Luis Pérez Arredondo
|
| San Miguel de Allende
(Historical perspective taken from a 1998 AAA guidebook--interesting to see what is the same and what has changed in 2007)
The city is located about 170km south of San Luis Potosi. Driving time is about 2 hours. The city has an elevation of 6,134 feet.
San Miguel de Allende traces its history to the immediate aftermath of the Spanish conquest. As mines began to exploit the rich gold and silver deposits of Mexico's central highland region, mule trains were formed to carry the bounty back to Mexico City. These caravans, however, passed through territory occupied by the Chichimeca Indians, and many a skirmish erupted. The village of San Miguel was founded in 1542 by the Franciscian monk Juan de San Miguel, who established a mission to evangalize the Indians and also to teach European weaving and agricultural techniques.
The settlement prospered, becoming the local market center for surrounding haciendas trading in cattle and textiles. It also went through several name changes, including San Miguel de los Chichimecas and San Miguel el Grande. It was here that the native son Ignacio Allende, along with Father Miquel Hidalgo from the neighboring town of Dolores Hidalgo, planned the initial uprising that led to the 11-year War of Independence. "Allende" was added to the town's name in 1826 to honor the freedom fighter.
San Miguel entered a period of decline following the war. Its opulent churches and mansions fell into decay, and poverty set in as mining operations subsided. But in 1926 -- a century after it became offically at city -- the Maxican government declared San Miguel a national historic monument. Modern contruction was prohibited in the city center to preserve the atmosphere, and the old buildings were restored. Foreigners began moving in during the 1930s, and today there is a well-established permanent community of North American expatriates, augmented by teachers, artists and writers who call San Miguel home for up to 6 months each year.
Away from the carefully preserved downtown section there's an everyday scruffiness, with the drab adobe huts lining dusty streets. San Miguel also has experienced growing pains due to an increased number of tourists. While agricultural exports, particulary vegetables, bring in revenue, the growth in population and industry has put a strain in the available water supply.
Visitors gravitate downtown, where coats of arms are carved over the doorways of houses that formerly belonged to Spanish aristocrats; they prospered from the Zacatecas-Guanajuato-Mexico City silver route that once ran through San Miguel. Inner patios shelter fountains, trees and flowers. Some of these handsome buildings now house commercial banks.
Make your first stop the main plaza, located between calles San Francisca and Correo and commonly referred to as El Jardin. Shaded by Indian laurel trees, it's a great place to relax on a wrought-iron bench, listen to the tolling bells of La Parroquia, the parish church, and observe the local scene. Artists working on their canvases are a common sight in the vicinity of the plaza, and most of the city's attractions are within walking distance. Note: Wear comfortable shoes; the city streets are narrow, steep and cobblestoned.
| If you read guidebooks or travel articles about México, you will read
that Mexicans are wonderfully accommodating, friendly, warm, and generous to
strangers. You will be given the impression these people are the “Salt
of the Earth” and maybe even virtually Saints. You will be told things
like, “Mexicans are helpful to a fault” and “they will be so
patient with you trying to learn Spanish.” While this might be true, I
have, of late, begun to doubt the multitude of clichés that pour forth
from all the guidebook and article sources about Mexico.
About 18 months into our expatriation experiment, my wife and I began to wonder
what was going on in the heartland of Mexico. The clichés we had read
in our pre-expat research were, frankly, beginning to fall apart. The longer
we lived here, the more we were beginning to see things that the guidebooks gushed
about Mexican’s congeniality weren’t necessarily true. Something
wasn’t adding up.
Guanajuato is about as much in the middle of the country as it gets. It is
truly the heartland of Mexico. Here life is uber-provincial. The dictionary defines
provincial as, “a person of local or restricted interests or outlook; a
person lacking urban polish or refinement.” I began hearing this uber-provincial
stuff more and more as the years went by. I heard this from not only American,
German, and Canadian expatriates but also from Mexicans who grew up in other
parts of Mexico and who, for one reason or another, ended up in Guanajuato.
Certain things begin to happen to us that caused us to begin asking questions.
After all, we were still very fresh and green expats who didn’t know much.
But we began to ask about this or that once things started happening.
I guess it was the first time I was knocked into the street by a Mexican and
subsequently hit by a bus that caused me to wonder what was going on. The second
time was really what got me to wondering. I was pushed off the sidewalk not once
but twice into the path of an oncoming bus and was struck. Not once did anyone
stop to see if I was all right. The pushers never bothered to utter one word
to me. My wife has also been pushed and shoved off sidewalks. I have a 70-year-old
American gringa pal who was pushed into the path of a taxi and was nailed.
One just has to ask what is happening in Guanajuato, Mexico.
I wish I could tell you.
What I began to see long ago was that the Guanajuatenses on the street are
practically running to get somewhere but never arrive on time for anything. Although
all of Latin American (and Italy) is famous for how they regard time differently
than the rest of the world, this has slowly been changing in the more metropolitan
areas of Mexico. More and more, Mexicans are beginning to forsake their traditional
understanding of what it means to be on time for anything. Not so in Guanajuato.
It is just as traditional here as it has been for centuries. Some say the heartland
of Mexico is “stuck in the past.”
But, what you have are Guanajuatenses running at the speed of light and, I
can assure you, to get nowhere fast. They are absolutely not trying to get somewhere
on time. It is a cultural affectation here in Guanajuato. They will never, ever
arrive on time for anything. This is a total mystery in and of itself. Why are
they running? They never arrive on time for anything so what’s the rush?
So, you may logically ask, why are they running down the sidewalk knocking
gringos into the gutter? I wish I could tell you, but I can’t.
I have asked Mexicans because I have the facility in the language to do so.
Most of those I have questioned are not from Guanajuato originally. They are
here for a job, marriage, or whatever, and have been transplanted from other
regions of Mexico.
To my amazement, these Guanajuato transplants have told me that they view
the people of Guanajuato as some of the rudest, most ill educated, and most ill
reared Mexicans in the country. I have gotten emails from Mexicans and as well
as been told in face-to-face interviews that they regard Guanajuatenses Mexicans
as anti-social. This is amazing. These are Mexicans from other regions talking
about their fellow Mexicans. It very much reminds me of those from the Midwest
and western parts of America talking about New York.
Now, I have to take the word of those who tell me this since the only place
I’ve ever lived in this country is Guanajuato. But, I am beginning to take
their word to heart and believe what they say, hook, line, and sinker. Our experience
bears out what our Extra-Guanajuatenses have told us.
Once, I got an email from a Mexican lady in Puerto Vallarta. She had read
some of my articles and columns but poo-poo’ed me as a crazy gringo. Then,
she and another Mexican girlfriend came traveling through Guanajuato. She said
she couldn’t wait to email me and tell me how many times she was shoved
off the sidewalk and pushed away from the cashier’s counter in stores.
Just this morning, my wife was in line to buy some very delicious tamales.
She placed her order and paid the guy. Before the seller could get out of his
mouth, “One moment while I get your food” a Mexican lady, one of
our congenial, warm, and kind Guanajuatenses, elbowed my wife out of line and
cut in front of her. The seller had to be someone from some other part of Mexico
because he noticed what happened and told this woman to get in line.
A month ago, some college student who thought it was appropriate to lay hands
on me and shove me a good one shoved me out of the way in a pharmacy! I wish
I could tell you that these are all isolated incidents but I would be lying.
The guy pushed me as though I was a piece of furniture that was in his way.
The mystery is how Mexicans are supposed to be such kind, generous, and accommodating
people to foreigners while in Guanajuato, you are just liable to be pushed into
the path of an oncoming bus going at the speed of light. How…how…how
is this so?
The other day, we were exiting the post office when we saw one Mexican do
something to another Mexican. This kid, in his early twenties, walked by a lady
who had set her heavy bolsa (a large shopping bag) on the sidewalk while waiting
for a cab. This young man kicked the bolsa into the street. It seemed unintentional.
He looked briefly and then walked off. The lady took off after him. While she
was trying to corral him, a bus came by and squashed her bolsa and all its contents
to smithereens.
My wife once had to catch an elderly lady who was shoved off a 12-inch-high
sidewalk by two girls who seemed not to care a wit that they almost killed one
of their fellow countrywomen.
Something else that goes on in stores all over the city—another mystery--is
something that would get Guanajuatenses killed in America. When you go to meat
counter or any place with a counter, Guanajuatenses will shove you out of the
way to bark their orders to the hired help, even though the employee was already
waiting on you. Don’t miss the picture here. There you are. You’ve
just given your order to the butcher for a kilo of hotdogs when some Señora
puts her hands on you (or elbows you) and knocks you into the middle of next
week so she can be at the front of the line.
This goes on all the time, without fail, day and night—and there’s
nothing you can do about it!
NOTHING!
Why they do it I cannot tell you. We have asked and are told that the people
of Guanajuato are “malcriados” and “maleducadas” …this
means ill-raised and badly-educated.
I think the mystery is how did they earn the warm and inviting reputation
that you read in all the guidebooks? They certainly could not have meant the
heartland of Mexico, especially not Guanajuato!
Perhaps it’s the other regions about which the guidebooks have been
talking.
I do not know!
by Douglas Bower
Article Source: EzineArticles.com | |